lagexe

it's 0.73cubed

While I'm doing that, what cube should I be searching for. I'm new to all this. Thanks for helping though.

My apologies, yes I'm asking if the dimensions in the second post are good for a P1 12 inverted? I'll edit the first post. My apologies again. Also, I'm wondering if someone has some better dimensions than my second post. Smaller or a little bigger.

Sorry to bump, I need to know before Home Depot closes . Any and all help is appreciated.

14" Left to Right 15" Front to Back 9" Tall, can be bigger, but I would like 9". However, I'm flexible

Forgot to post question. What is a good box for this P1-4ohm inverted sub? Thanks for any and all help! I have an SSD 15" for my bass, I'm wanting something now to better play my 150hz-200hz. I could buy a 8" for this, but I already have a 12", and I don't think it should be a problem. Reason for inverted: 1.) The front has some sun-fading spots 2.) Inverted subs ALWAYS look cooler than non inverted /fact! /or at least should be fact EDIT: (But the sub still registers 3.8 ~ 3.9 ohms, so it is still a good sub, just old. I'll be pushing it with 150rms, but it can take a little more) But I have no idea of what boxes are supposed to be like for inverted subs. I also don't know if I should reverse my + and - terminals. I would like some suggestion on boxes, but please keep in mind it need it to be semi-small. This is gonna go behind my center console, and in front of my back seat (Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo). It will need to have a shape like below to fit over the hump in my floor. Things to keep in mind: 1.) I don't need it to be the loudest thing ever, just make the notes audible. 2.) If inverted subs 'Must' be ported, I would like for it to be symmetrical. I will post the dimensions in a few min, I need to go measure. But either way I want it to be as small as possible. I think regular mounted subs are better for small boxes, but still... I want what I want (I just hope it's possible ) I know the hump on bottom is 11" across. I'm not sure, but I think that is all that is need for it to be a small box. Either way actual dimensions coming up soon. At work, you know how that is .

Since we can't compare here, where could I get a VS of 2 companies? Preferably a forum with no bias, but facts? Did not mean to quote you... I don't think I hit reply

IF you are gonna post, please read everything. (so you don't answer questions I already know the answer to ) Also, I'm looking for 'facts', not; theories, opinions, or hearsay. Since I have joined this forum I have learned what these numbers on my amp's level/gain mean. Now, I'm wanting to look a little deeper. I have my amp's Gain @2Volts, or what I think is 2Volts, I don't have any tools and the only indicators are the min/max. Even though my amp needs to be at 2Volts to give me the full RMS, I would think every little turn adds distortion even if I can't hear it. So... If I got a 6V (my amps max) head-unit, would that give me better sound quality than my current 2V head-unit? Obviously I mean: 6V-HU @ 6V on amp vs 2V-HU @ 2V on amp Thanks!

Changing wires are simple. I could point you to a better amp to push that 1 sub, but I'll need the full specs (ohms, rms, coil count) Then I may be able to steer you toward a better sub to compliment that amp for cheap(ish) EDIT: If I start leaning your in the wrong direction someone will step in to help you further

Do you know the secret [bracket] tag to get them to chime faster? lol But seriously any, and all help is appreciated!

I would upgrade all wires (including speaker) to a bigger gauge. As far as the rest is concerned, It's hard to say without an actual number My 'Cheap upgrade' was about $600. My definition of cheap and yours may be very different. But My alternator (120amp) and battery (720?amp) are pushing a 1.1500D Onyx and Fi SSD 15" (dual 1ohm). those 2 things together would put you in the $400 range. I'm sure that you could push it too. However you would need to upgrade you Ground wire (from neg-terminal -> frame), Alternators hot wire, and run some 4-5gauge to your amp. I'm using 14guage wire for my sub, but I used positive and negative together (to make slightly bigger wire) for both negative and positive leads. Then I replaced every piece of speaker wire in my jeep with 14gauge wire. My previous upgrade was buying 2 Rockford amps to push my tweets and rear 6x9s. ------------- I would say upgrade your tweets and mids. A week or two into that, you'll be so thirsty for better bass you might (like me) go out and buy Fi EDIT: One day, one day I'll learn to spell, I swear it!

Do you know of any good tutorials. I mean, I can cut perfect circles in my door, but that doesn't mean it will look good. I'm looking for some strong guidance.

I'm not trying to question you, or be condescending, but are you sure? I have looked at a lot of doors on google, and a lot of people seemed to make theirs look trashy. (IMO) If they is a chance it will look good and save me some money I will do it in a heart beat. However, I would like to see someone in a video or detailed tutorial. I don't have a lot of space between my panel and door frame (maybe a millimeter or so), so I would also have to cut into my frame. Is this possible?

I've been looking and some sites that people are suggesting on other forums, and it looks like most people use some kind of template and make a fiberglass mold of that. Then bolt/screw it to their existing panel. Is that all there is to it? Aside from cutting holes, painting, and installing the speaker? If so, Hell I think I can do that.

How much is "don't have too much"?

What kind of car and are you trying to glass or are you just cutting directly into the door? I would like to add on to the door. I assume people use fiber glass and mdf like the guy below you said. I'm not 100% sure though. Either way I do not want to cut into my doors, I feel that may look trashy. Oh and Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1994

I think steve has a video, but I'm having trouble finding it. I was wondering if someone can link me to that video and tutorials that go a little more in depth. Thanks!

What head-unit do you have? After market, stock, some jbl? chances are that you can get a better speaker amp. If you are feeling froggy you may even be able to get a few boxed 6x9s to add to your system. personally, I would start looking at Rockford amps. They cost a little bit, yes. However, they are damn good amps.

np, I need the same info one day Where do I get a bracket?

This will be a later project, but I wanted to get educated on the basics, and hardware now. I hear a lot of people talking about brackets to mount an additional Alternator. Do I need one? If so, where do I buy, or is this something I need to make? Is there a better/easier way to do it? I'll ask more questions as I know to ask them. At the moment, I have many.

The remote wire might be it. I didn't think about it. Also if you have a second battery, what is the cap for? or just for looks? Not trying to sound like 99.99% of the audio heads on the net, I'm legitimately curious.

Sounds to me like a ground or hot wire are not as secure as you think. And because you didn't mention it, I'll ask: Do you have a fuse on both sides of your hot wire? I don't think that is the problem, but could be a problem one day. Also You said the fuses are okay, but what about the wires running into and out of them? Are they nice, tight, clean, and still copper colored?. edits in red

That is all my questions (for now). Thank you^100th!

Holy crap, I think I'm getting this stuff. Thanks everyone. ----------- I asked once but it may have been buried, in the most recent pic I posted what cap should be grounded; the top of bottom? Thanks again, I can not say it enough! Sorry for all the questions! Team Bassick You answered my question and I missed it. Sorry. Though are making me wonder if I should ground both caps or not? I do have all amps grounded, but I don't know if that counters not having both caps grounded.

I didn't think about it from that angle, Thanks