Mad_Mike

I planned on getting some AQ HDC3 15's, but the box they require is really big for only two.. I can only fit like a 36x20 box inside my trunk's opening I think.. I hear the SA's are just as good though. Are they?

Between JL and Alpine id go with the SA 12 Lol what? Aren't you just clever! Fyro: JL audio has nice products and all... But they're way overpriced on everything. One of my local shops here try to buy it wholesale to sell cheaper to us but it's still expensive even then!

I think I'm just going to trash this setup, it's given me too much headache and it's not even really capable of the power it was a year ago when i got them.. I'll upgrade to an AQ 2200 and either AQ HDC3 12/15's or SA-12/15's. I'm leaning on the AQ's because they're actually rated for 1000w

I've got an idea. Tomorrow I could hook up only one sub, and see if the amp will do the 500w its rated for at 4 ohms? Would this little test be worth anything?

I have tried another amp, but it's only a 400 rms. I have tested it to push around 300 watts clean unclipped power in the past per channel. It's only 4 ohm stable bridged so I hooked up 2 subs to each channel and it's giving them 300 each. I clamp tested that too. The subs sound like... not as loud as they use to be when i first got them. I actually pushed the subs for a little bit on this amp before I got the kenwood KAC-9105D. It use to be similar sound from both amps, but now it's like the kenwood can do better but not for long because the output will go down. The 400w rms one just doesn't really move them like it use to, and it's been sitting on the shelf. With this 400w rms amp two of these kenwoods could flex my roof, and now with this amp two subs hardly vibrate my rear view mirror

Everyone is saying it may only be able to do 400 rms "clean power", but why would a cheaper, lower rated amp do better than this one? The amp is the Kenwood KAC-9105D, the subs are KFC-W3012.

Actually, let's not forget this happened because I still do have a problem I could use some help with lol. I do plan on getting the amp tested with an o-scope to see when it's clipping. But I find it hard to believe that it will clip at 400 rms, when my other 1000w amp could push the two subs at 2 ohms with no problem and it was a kenwood too.. they were probably getting like at least 400 EACH on that amp. I personally think I may have fucked one or more of my coils, because this has been happening for two of the same model amps. Though it could be the amp model it self.. what do you guys think about this?

Okay I'll be completely serious here. I did not understand what you were trying to say in your post, you have justification for what you said so it's forgiven as far as I'm concerned. You were not wrong, I just took it wrong. My question originally was.. "Does wiring two 1000w subs together = 2000w demand?" And I kind of answered it for myself when I asked if you were running those SA-10's at 1k each on a 2k amp. Nobody has to try and explain anything to me, I'm not trying to argue that 2k as a pair = 2k each or any dumb shit like that. I'm justifying post following mikes_g6's post. I completely understand that you need an amp that can do all of the subs rms's added up at 1 ohm or, even 2 or 4 ohms depending on the amp you get or have. I have completely understood this the entire time. I'm sure this has been quite embarrassing for a few people, including myself. So let's just forget about this whole thing LOL.

Yes mikes_g6 your original post was wrong. You said it doesn't change handling capability, but wiring two subs apparently does when considered a pair. I understood your post as saying "RMS doesn't change so you would give them both 1k rms still as a pair wired up to one amp", it may have been my mishap, I don't know. Maybe you just worded it wrong. I'm sorry I had to be an asshole about it, shit happens y'kno. I'm truly sorry mikes_g6.

Omg dude, that's what I said LOL. 2k as a pair = 2k each was SARCASM. RMS DOES change... IN THE CIRCUIT. 2k as a pair = 1k each and 2k total, I GET THAT. The RMS does change period, IN THE CIRCUIT, as I have been referring to this whole time?

Lol everyone is calling me dumb? I was being sarcastic. HE SAID: "Wiring two subs together does NOT double rms handling, only changes ohms" or some shit like that. So I basically asked him if he was running 2k to his two 1k RMS subs, he says yes. So, I sarcastically said.... Oh, and those SA-10's are only 600-1000 watts? Then what the fuck are you talking about wiring two subs together doesn't change RMS? If you run those "about" 1000w RMS subs at 1 ohm on that amp, they're going to get 2k watts as a pair(2k EACH), according to what you said right?In other words, I was a little mean here, mocking his misinformation. Hence "ACCORING TO WHAT YO SAID, RIGHT?" According to his post, if the rms is not changed, they would see the full 2k rms from that amp at one ohm Obviously not, you wouldn't do that unless you were trying to kill those subsIn other words, he wouldn't give each individual sub 2K RMS, because it would blow them. So, you just proved your previous statement wrong, and answered my question all in one? I sure hope everyone that was like "wtf", thinks again and can actually interpret some SARCASM? This really made me lol, like 5 different people were bout ready to gang up on me when you guys are actually the ones misunderstanding. I'm not saying they would get 2k, they would get 1k each and not 2k like his information stated.

Oh, and those SA-10's are only 600-1000 watts? Then what the fuck are you talking about wiring two subs together doesn't change RMS? If you run those "about" 1000w RMS subs at 1 ohm on that amp, they're going to get 2k watts as a pair(2k EACH), according to what you said right? Obviously not, you wouldn't do that unless you were trying to kill those subs. So, you just proved your previous statement wrong, and answered my question all in one?

Do you have two SA-10's on a AQ2200 at 1 ohm??

3 400w RMS 4 ohm subs wired in parallel for a 1.3ohm load = 1200w RMS right? What I mean is, by wiring subs together, you double their handling capability right? I was pretty sure of this until something strange happened.. I use to push only 2 of these at 2 ohms on a 1000w rms amp, and I never had problems like I'm having now. The problem is that if I set my gains too high the output will drop, then go back up and etc until I turn them back down. The amp is 1200w RMS @ 1 ohm kenwood. I noticed today when playing with the gains, if I set it to push 400w to the 3 subs then there is no loss of power. I'm using a clamp and DMM to set the gains by wattage output. Seeing that they are just fine at only 400w, makes me think.. does wiring subs together really double RMS handling?? I'm telling my self "No way, the subs look like they're only pumping 1/3 of what they can really handle.. there's no way they should only be getting 400w", but also questioning myself! I've had two of these amps, they have both done the same thing. So I'm thinking.. maybe it's something with this model? Or is it just that 3 400w rms subs wired together can only handle 400w rms?

Kenwood's aren't really 'bad', they actually flex my roof And it would seem i may have fried the amp i was using.. guess it wasnt 2 ohm stable for bridging . 60 dollar sub has cost me 200! Some bs, now this thing shall see the 120v, 7000w wall socket!

Lol I'm not a newb at this, I have a three kenwood 12's in my car that can actually handle the 400rms they claim, and more! I can push them all at like 800 rms each without them even warming up. Going to upgrade to some AQ HDC3's though. I'll pull thing boss out of the box and see what it can handle free air, I'm actually having more fun than I thought I would with this 60 bucks! Hahaha.

Yeah I'm clamping it on 40hz tone

Alright I'll try that, maybe even just free air them? I had a sealed laying around that matched so I through it in there. EDIT: I don't have a video recorder right now, can't make a vid for ya.

I bought a couple boss phantom 12's which are suppose to RMS at like 1100 watts or so to have some fun with.. dual 4 coils. I wired one up at 2 ohm and play it on a 40hz tone at like 100watts for a bit to loosen it up and then the fun begins! Or so I thought... It's in a sealed box per boss's recommendation and I shoot for like 500 RMS and the speaker spits and sputters so i go lower and lower until finally it can play a 40hz tone at 200 watts... i knew boss was shit but i didnt know it was this bad!

Glued at every joint. And yes I'm adding glue to the brace joints aswell.

I don't have fiberglass and can't get any here any time soon.. The threaded rods sound like a good idea.. but then I'd have big nuts bulging from my box. You don't think screws and some 2x4 are good enough? I was gunna do two braces right between the sub holes and screw them in with 2-3 screws on each side and then glue and nail the top baffle on to hide all the screw sink holes. Sound good?

Okay. Since I'm bracing it, you think if I screw the braces in I can just glue and nail the 2nd baffle to the first? It'd be easier so I don't have to plug more screw sink holes.

I built a box for three 12" subs, I didn't think it would need bracing because it's only 40" x 24".. but I guess I do. It's flexing on top and spitting screws out so now the subs are rattling against the wood lol. I was thinking I could glue and screw down another 3/4 peice on top and cut the holes again.. Do you guys think 1.5 inch thickness will keep it from flexing? He's the box design:

If it's a removable faceplate, the faceplate could not be seated correctly or not all the way seated. If that's not it, then it's probably a defective deck.

It sounds to me like you're terrified of the rotary buffers.. lol they aren't that dangerous if you keep your rpms at like 1800 and keep that thing moving quickly. I polished my car in like 30min with one of these and didn't break through.