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About gmoxley1

  • Birthday 05/18/1993

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  • Location
    Athens GA
  • Interests
    Car Audio, Motocross, and family

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  1. Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well. I have a very small build going on in my daily truck and have very limited space for amps and was wondering if anyone had any information on the SAM amps? I saw the the SAM500D was available for preorder on some sites but i haven't seen much about the 4 channel. I have an sae 50.4 but just dont have the space to put it comfortably. Thanks, Greg
  2. i gotcha. i was going to do that but i just barely didnt have enough wire to make 3 runs (power,ground and signal) so i figure with as little current as the OM-1 draws just tapping into the HU power and ground should be fine.
  3. Well I tried the (-) speaker output and now it works perfect! And it is just awesome! Can't wait to get this calibrated with a dd-1. Then i'll be good to go!
  4. Well at least your cutting down on possible things that could be wrong. Though I know, it's frustrating. II don't understand why the manual states that either. Soldering every connection is a good rule of thumb, that's why I do it. Not for conductivity. Though it's nice to know the connection is not going to come un-done. I've noticed it could be pretty easy to damage these when mounting or configuring the sensitivty on the meter. Perhaps thats the problem... Maybe the grey wire came lose from the circuit board? Or maybe it has a cold-joint? I don't know if these are hand-made or not, but if they are, there is a tiny possibility of this. In that case you could send it in for warranty... A cold joint is easy to fix, just re-heat the solder where the grey wire connects to the board. Don't over-heat it, just quickly heat till liquid then let it cool again. If you can measure with a DMM and see AC signal at the terminal the grey wire is connected to on the amp... then unless the wire isn't connected at the meter, there is no other point of possible failure. I'll check it out today when I get a chance and try out the (-) output. Fingers crossed
  5. Now to address your issue... I believe your not getting a good signal transfer for one reason or another. I didn't use speaker wire, I used cheap wire I picked up at my local auto-parts store! It llooked like it was the same gauge, and I inspected the actual copper inside each. They seemed to be an equal match. I tested the output on all 4 "slots" Mono amp. They give the EXACT same reading. + or - seems to make no difference. Neither does which slot you pick. Once calibrated, you can move it from one slot to the other without changing the readings. Unless the amp is SUPER close to being burnt or the amp is actually damaged already, your not going to hurt anything. (DISCLAIMER: I don't believe, and in the manual it says it's safe for 2 channels, and I tried it without damage on a MONO, so I'm living proof that it is only POSSIBLE not to damage anything.) Did you solder the grey wire or use some sort of clip to attach the wire? I solder all my connections. Clips always came loose or didn't make good contact when I tried them. If that doesn't fix things... Try new gauge/brand/type of wire from the amp to the grey wire. Bigger or smaller won't hurt anything. Just don't go smaller than what the grey wire itself is. (Haven't checked, just eye-balled it.) Like I said, I only used regular cheap power wire for car accessories. I expected needing to upgrade to speaker wire... but apparently not. Hope this helps, if not let me know if you have any other questions This thing sure was a hassle for me... I think for $100 SMD should have included the 10uF 200v Bi-Polar Capicator I needed to install this.... Hunting around at radio-shack for a $1.50 part is no fun lol... Gald you got yours working! That's awesome! ! I used a bunch of different size/brand and ofc and cca wire with no luck. With the speaker output being AC current I don't see how the OM-1 could not work on one output but work on the other like the manual says for some multi channel amps. My amp was refurbished from DB-r (sundown audios authorized amp repair company) and it works great! Haven't found any dc coming through the outputs I just can't seem to get it to light up more than one led. Like its not getting any signal. But there is obviously signal going through cause it's moving the subs quite nicely. I have not soldered the connections because I have been trying so many different things and to be honest I hope that it doesn't need to be soldered just to work properly. Everything else works without being soldered so hopefully the signal wire shouldn't have to be just to get it to move.
  6. there definitely must be some kind of noise in the system if you cant get the meter to drop below -3db as that is pretty high on the scale. the remote wire should not have an effect on the performance BUT i also dont know exactly how these things work. but that is an odd place to run the remote wire to in my opinion. i have my power and ground ran to the power and ground for the head unit and the remote ran to the remote out on the headunit. the signal wire is the only thing im having trouble with or at least i assume. because mine wont adjust to anything besides the lowest reading at 00dB. the only thing i have yet to try is the (-) speaker output.
  7. I gotcha. The manual says for monoblock to use the (+) but that didn't work so I wanted to get some input on whether the (-) is "safe" to use. I can't imagine how it could hurt but I wanted make sure before I tried.
  8. Sorry for the bump. Just trying to see if it's okay to use the (-) speaker output before I try it. It's an SAZ-1200d just for some immediate info.
  9. Sorry to be impatient but anybody got any recommendations as far as whether I should try the (-) speaker output? That's the only thing I can think of that I haven't done.
  10. Well I tried smaller wire ofc and cca with no luck... the only thing I have yet to try is using the (-) speaker output. Is it safe to try? I assume since the out put is AC current it shouldn't make a difference but in the manual it says that some two and four channel amps sometimes you need to use the (-) speaker output. But this is a monoblock.
  11. Hmm very odd that larger gauge wouldn't work but it's worth a try! Thanks!
  12. I have tried slowly turning fully counter clockwise and clockwise. i assume i have everything correctly wire. it comes on when i turn the key on so i assume power and ground and remote are correct. i have the remote connected to remote on the headunit same as the amp. and the signal running to the positive on the amp. Could OFC vs CCA signal wire make a difference cause i just used some 14 gauge CCA remote i had laying around as my wire for the signal. i wouldn't think it would have made it not funcation properly but i could be wrong. Edit- its on a monoblock amp which i assume from the manual means that it should be on the (+) speaker output.
  13. When opening the back it was already turned all the way counter clockwise I tried clockwise and it made no differwnce. I turned until it clearly stopped and was afraid to turn it any more. But I turned fully both ways and there was no difference
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