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Posts posted by gmoxley1

  1. I used a bunch of different size/brand and ofc and cca wire with no luck. With the speaker output being AC current I don't see how the OM-1 could not work on one output but work on the other like the manual says for some multi channel amps.

    Well at least your cutting down on possible things that could be wrong. Though I know, it's frustrating. II don't understand why the manual states that either.

    I have not soldered the connections because I have been trying so many different things and to be honest I hope that it doesn't need to be soldered just to work properly. Everything else works without being soldered so hopefully the signal wire shouldn't have to be just to get it to move.

    Soldering every connection is a good rule of thumb, that's why I do it. Not for conductivity. Though it's nice to know the connection is not going to come un-done.

    I've noticed it could be pretty easy to damage these when mounting or configuring the sensitivty on the meter. Perhaps thats the problem...

    Maybe the grey wire came lose from the circuit board? Or maybe it has a cold-joint? I don't know if these are hand-made or not, but if they are, there is a tiny possibility of this. In that case you could send it in for warranty... A cold joint is easy to fix, just re-heat the solder where the grey wire connects to the board. Don't over-heat it, just quickly heat till liquid

    then let it cool again.

    If you can measure with a DMM and see AC signal at the terminal the grey wire is connected to on the amp... then unless the wire isn't connected at the meter, there is no other point of possible failure.

    I'll check it out today when I get a chance and try out the (-) output. Fingers crossed

  2. The manual says for monoblock to use the (+) but that didn't work so I wanted to get some input on whether the (-) is "safe" to use. I can't imagine how it could hurt but I wanted make sure before I tried.

    Now to address your issue...

    I believe your not getting a good signal transfer for one reason or another.

    I didn't use speaker wire, I used cheap wire I picked up at my local auto-parts store! It llooked like it was the same gauge, and I inspected the actual copper inside each. They seemed to be an equal match.

    I tested the output on all 4 "slots" Mono amp.

    They give the EXACT same reading. + or - seems to make no difference. Neither does which slot you pick. Once calibrated, you can move it from one slot to the other without changing the readings.

    Unless the amp is SUPER close to being burnt or the amp is actually damaged already, your not going to hurt anything. (DISCLAIMER: I don't believe, and in the manual it says it's safe for 2 channels, and I tried it without damage on a MONO, so I'm living proof that it is only POSSIBLE not to damage anything.)

    Did you solder the grey wire or use some sort of clip to attach the wire?

    I solder all my connections. Clips always came loose or didn't make good contact when I tried them.

    If that doesn't fix things... Try new gauge/brand/type of wire from the amp to the grey wire. Bigger or smaller won't hurt anything. Just don't go smaller than what the grey wire itself is. (Haven't checked, just eye-balled it.) Like I said, I only used regular cheap power wire for car accessories. I expected needing to upgrade to speaker wire... but apparently not.

    Hope this helps, if not let me know if you have any other questions :)

    This thing sure was a hassle for me...

    I think for $100 SMD should have included the 10uF 200v Bi-Polar Capicator I needed to install this.... Hunting around at radio-shack for a $1.50 part is no fun lol...

    Gald you got yours working! That's awesome! !

    I used a bunch of different size/brand and ofc and cca wire with no luck. With the speaker output being AC current I don't see how the OM-1 could not work on one output but work on the other like the manual says for some multi channel amps. My amp was refurbished from DB-r (sundown audios authorized amp repair company) and it works great! Haven't found any dc coming through the outputs I just can't seem to get it to light up more than one led. Like its not getting any signal. But there is obviously signal going through cause it's moving the subs quite nicely.

    I have not soldered the connections because I have been trying so many different things and to be honest I hope that it doesn't need to be soldered just to work properly. Everything else works without being soldered so hopefully the signal wire shouldn't have to be just to get it to move.

  3. I am having a similiar problem with an OM-1 I ordered directly from SMD.

    I'm getting a strong reading from my 1200w JL Audio G-Max.

    However, as soon as I turn on my deck... even with the volume all the way down, the meter sits at a constant-3dB.

    It does not move and adjust with the music as it should. It will never drop below -3dB.

    I adjusted the meter to just barely display red at the amps max output of 49v.

    It does display red when there are powerful peaks with the volume/output about where I'd expect it to be.


    The ground is wired into a distribution block which goes straight to the battery for all my meters. <-- thinking this could be the problem.

    The constant power is wired into my smaller 200w amp's power terminal.

    The Remote wire is wired into a distribution block for all my gauges connected to an empty 20Amp slot in the fusebox.

    The grey wire I've tried at both the + and - speaker outputs on my amp with the exact same readings.

    Both readings were obviously still useful as I've stated... but I doubt the accuracy on such a small scale.

    Without it displaying as it should, how can we trust the accuracy?

    I'm very stressed out about this. I'm pretty broke at the moment and picked one of these up on sale for $92.00 with shipping over black friday. Really want to figure this out...

    In the troublshooting section of the manual it states that you may need to wire a capicator inline with the grey (Speaker signal) and white (Remote Wire) to reduce engine noise. I'd really like to avoid all that if possible.

    Engine noise is a possibility as I have a very powerful alternator. And it is grounded with 0 gauge wire straight to the battery negative terminal.

    Perhaps giving it it's own seperate ground away from any other devices would be best?

    Perhaps the ground is not good enough? It should be... but you never know.

    I could run another ground wire straight to the battery for it, or I could mount it somewhere on the frame that reads good on my DMM.

    Any advice is extremely helpful. I'm fairly experienced with these sort of things and thought this would be a piece of cake.

    The most confusing part about all this, is that the white wire (remote) should have zero effect on the readings.... Only the grey should matter as that is all that it is measuring correct?

    there definitely must be some kind of noise in the system if you cant get the meter to drop below -3db as that is pretty high on the scale. the remote wire should not have an effect on the performance BUT i also dont know exactly how these things work. but that is an odd place to run the remote wire to in my opinion. i have my power and ground ran to the power and ground for the head unit and the remote ran to the remote out on the headunit. the signal wire is the only thing im having trouble with or at least i assume. because mine wont adjust to anything besides the lowest reading at 00dB. the only thing i have yet to try is the (-) speaker output.

  4. I have tried slowly turning fully counter clockwise and clockwise. i assume i have everything correctly wire. it comes on when i turn the key on so i assume power and ground and remote are correct. i have the remote connected to remote on the headunit same as the amp. and the signal running to the positive on the amp.

    Could OFC vs CCA signal wire make a difference cause i just used some 14 gauge CCA remote i had laying around as my wire for the signal. i wouldn't think it would have made it not funcation properly but i could be wrong.

    Edit- its on a monoblock amp which i assume from the manual means that it should be on the (+) speaker output.

  5. So a friend of mine purchased an OM-1 for me last christmas and shortly after that i had a transmission failure which caused me to loose the inspiration i had for car audio until i was able to get it fixed and going again. well about a week ago i finally got my trans fixed and got the car audio itch back and decided to work on my car audio project. well i got my amp in and that all well and good and installed the OM-1 according to the manual and cranked the car and it turned on with a brilliant display for blue and white LED's and i went to adjust it according to the manual and no matter what volume i had my system on i could not get this thing to light up more than the very first LED. I absolutely love the look of the product and want to use it very badly. (Ive met someone with a DD-1 and CC-1 who is going to help me truly set my gains and crossovers correctly) but i wanted to calibrate the OM-1 with the DD-1 so i know what going on with my system. But i can't get the OM-1 to do anything no matter which way i adjust the adjustment pot on the back of the device.

    So i looked in the manual at the trouble shooting section that i saw and it says that in this case make sure that the device is connected to the amp signal so the first thing i do is unhook the OM-1 and connect the grey signal lead directly to the speaker (+) with no wire between the device and the amp besides the grey signal wire. this is an SAZ-1200d. and still nothing so then i changed to the other (+) output (even though its a monoblock just as a precaution in case one of the outputs was messed up) and still nothing. It does not say whether to try the speaker (-) so i have not done that but what else could be the problem? i had downloaded the DD-1 tracks online from D'amore and was play the -5dB 40 hz track while doing so and turning the adjustment pot did nothing.

    One thing i did not do was unplug the speakers while adjusting the device but surely that wouldnt have any effect. But i may very well be wrong and if i am i totally understand. Im just not sure what else to try.

    the adjustment pot turns pretty easily and only has a range of about 1 full turn or maybe a turn and a half. is this right or should it turn further?

    any advice would be great.

    I have emailed [email protected] about it but i thought i could ask on here just to see if anyone had any other suggestions before i here back from d'Amore.



  6. Hey guys. I was wanting to see if I need permission to use the sundown logo in a project of mine. I ask this specifically because the project I'm working on is the logo cut out of metal with a laser we have at my workplace. We wanted to make sure it was okay since it was for personal use and not to be sold or mass produced.

    Another question I have is about the cut out itself. I have a dxf file of the sundown logo which is what our laser programmer reads but the letters have to be individual entities which is not what I have and was wondering how to go about obtaining a file to do so or if someone could possibly help me out in making one. I don't have any kind of editing software on my computer that I know of to use. We tried using the "explode" tool in the program we have here at work but it could not separate the letters into separate entities.

    Thanks for any help in advance!


  7. I sold mine cuz it was so bright....then I was told you could adjust the brightness. Never researched it to find out if that was true. But mine was BRIGHT.

    you cannot adjust the brightness....and if a VM-1 is too bright for you you must have really sensitive eyes. Even mounted in the gauge cluster right in my face they don't seem to bright at all. But then again, cars come with dash dimmer's for people that like their lights dim. Not me. The O.P. must have really sensitive eye's too because i have never thought of my old Stingers as bright either, and i have had a lot of them in my past.

    the OM-1 probably gets brighter than them all due to how many LED's actually illuminate while playing the system at high volumes. But a VM-1 is one little blue LED. Not a big deal at all.

    OM-1 is kinda bright (but I love it) got it going behind a 1/8 piece of smoked plexi.

  8. Why are you so bent on a T line? T lines take up a lot of space, and a properly designed ported box can achieve what your after.

    I had a buddy that saw a video of an sa 8 v2 in a "labyrinth" ported box (multi folded slot port) and for some reason he had the biggest hard on for a labyrinth ported box and I couldn't ever get him to just go simpler and not do all the folds.

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