MrFree
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Posts posted by MrFree
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Thanks everyone for the help. I found a reset button behind the face plate. I hit it and nothing happend,,,,,Then a buddy hops in the next day, takes the usb out and plugs it back in and everything works fine, SO IDK,But thanks
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So if I have 3 30 amp fuses does that mean that each channel gets a 30amp fuse and then there is a master third 30 amp fuse that is a back up, or does it mean I have 900 watts
Edit: Also I tried to find actual output but I couldnt get my clamp meter to work. I connected the dmm and ran a 45Hz tone at 3/4 HU volume and it read 82.3v coming out of my bridged terminal. Could anyone help me with this or tell me how to use a clamp meter. thanks
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yes everything was working fine, and then this morning it keeps trying to read but doesnt play anything
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Last night I put some new songs and test tones on my mp3 player,well everything was working find,I set my gains,road around,and then went to bed.Well this morning I got in my car, and now my CD player and Mp3 player doesnt work. Could anyone help
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I have a Coustic600se and it has 3 30amp fuse's. I tried googling and only found stuff about the inline fuse for amps. Could anyone help explain what they are for, and why I have a friend with a 1200watt sony explode and he only has an 80amp fuse and I have 90amps with 600watts.thanks
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honestly for those that think its a bad idea, it might be a good idea for you to avoid that area
i probably will to for the most part.
one thing ill promise you guys - there wont be a religion one........that aint happenin here.
Your a wise man sir. (IMHO and I mean IMHO)I personally think men should never speak of religion and politics, but that could change, pinned topics is as far as Ive got.I'll predict redundant topics and pretentious view's.
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You seriously need to learn what your doing. Your going to end up blowing your subs here shortly.
I think there blown already.When you push in the woofers it sounds like there is water splashing around. I'm learning I got the amp for free and I hustled the Orions for free. I bought the HU and the Battery.
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So you still are running bass boost and all that? maxing the gains?
No I have a gain nob that I adjust as needed but mainly it stays at half way. I never use to max gains I never even would turn the gains up I couldnt or it would over heat.And I never used bass boost either.But now that I have the Big 3 and a couple battery's I am able to turn everything up with out distortion bass boost all the way, gain is half and the lowest the voltage drops nox is 12.3v
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DUDE DD is the world record holder @182.7DB or something close to that... BUY 2 to 4 Z18's and more crescendo's... OR some DC's and tune low
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I really need help picking out a new sub for my next build. Keep in mind that this is sq only not spl or sql or any of that. Im building my next system now. I have a 500 dollar budget. Im not picky on size.
Ok I would IMHO I would buy
Wow im sorry but ROFL on your quotes in the sig LOL...http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-FI-BTL-Subwoofer-/300688458294?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item46026dc236 and I would get this amphttp://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html or something like that.. Personally you would need about 800 to 900 to do something special.. Scratch that I would buy thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ACOUSTIK-MOFO154X-15-3000W-CAR-AUDIO-SUBWOOFER-SUB-MOFO-154X-/260985568512?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cc3f3bd00 and a cheap hifonics amp for now while I saved for the crescendo 3500 But thats just what I would do..I've heard good things about the TC sounds woofer. also i hear the FI Q is the W7 killer as far as quality, even though the dub7 isn't extremely special. but like stated earlier, it all comes down to the box, the product is only 10% of it.
something tuned low with not too much port area on low power will blend nice.
Or a T-line possibly. they're hit and miss in cars though.
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im not a huge fan of tuning much below 30 hz lowest i would ever tune is 28.. i like around 33-36 hz depending on the sub for just a music street beater
I'm tuned to 26hz right now
You guys below 30Hz I'm sure you have tuned higher before, so what is your final thought.will you stay low.are you limited to one or so types of music. And do you get port noise when punchy songs are? whats the plus and minus of below 30Hz tuning
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I just built a box that is around 3.cubes and ported to 35 Hz sounds great very very loud with low wattage. First box I built for a van was 5.cubes tuned to 45Hz I think it was too high for the Hifonics I put in it. I personally havnt tuned lower then 35Hz. What do you guys think about the 30's mid 20's etc..From you personal experience Not scientific theory what do you guys think about tuning.Lets here some rants...
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you get 13.5v just because thats what your alt charges at. only way to fix that is to get a new alt or maybe have yours modified at a shop. i think you can do that.
turn the bass boost all the way down and never touch it again. just do it.
now read up on how to set your gains with a DMM and get it set correctly.
after those steps, if you dont like how loud/quiet it is, its purely equipment. the reason your having problems is because your trying to push equipment to do what it isnt supposed to do.
That cap is probably hurting more than anything on your electrical. I would remove it. Also what plate did you ground it too? Pictures would help in this case.
I hope I dont piss anyone off bumping this,but. After the van died I put everything in my girls lancer and I have not had a problem since. I am really really loud now, and I can bump it to the max without it cutting out or even getting warm(seriously I have a gain nob and I push it to the max,while demoing,and I can touch my face to it, it's so cool afterwards)
All together I have the big 3 now 2 stock battery's and a shuriken bt sk20.When i put in the shuriken the amp stopped getting hot, and I grounded my amp twice(battery that is grounded to the frame and the frame so 1 terminal 2 grounds, but im sure it is just the shuriken that made a difference)
Edited for coherence:
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NOooooooooo.LOl jk let me know how it sounds, because my L-port sounds sweet..pics in my sig
I currently have an Back L-port on the box I have in my car right now. I can hear a little port noise, so I don't like it, could be because it was built poorly...but..I shall.
PS: You should send me that clamp you got...too cheap to buy one =))
LOL I borrowed the clamp's from the guy across the street...IMHO the first box looks like you will lose some port, and it looks like that because you're coming off of 2 seperate chambers into a port in the middle.I think it would be better to have one solid big port for the box I went with the L-shaped port and Im doing really really really good with only 600watts and cheap Orion's.
Edit:LOL the other night after I built my box, I ran into a guy from my old street. He told me that he could get me a box that would make my set up twice as loud.
Then he went to tell me that I should melt a plastic cup in the gaps between each piece of wood to seal them, because I'm losing so much air. I told him that right about now Im moving so much air that you wouldnt be able to tell difference. He said "No dude Im telling you, you need to melt a cup, go around the edges and then put a piece of wood over the port hole.. Cause you're losing alot of air,you can get way louder". I started to cry, then went home to kill myself.
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NOooooooooo.LOl jk let me know how it sounds, because my L-port sounds sweet..pics in my sig
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I just built the L port box for 2 12" Orion's and it sounds great I have 600 watts powering it and I am rockin. I went to my local audio store to show it off, because the owner has 4 DD9512's. he showed off my system to his remote start installer guy, like "listen to this it's only 600watts".SO I would say the 2nd one...
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that's incredibly difficult to read... but iirc orion's specs didn't give you enough port area.
I'm sorry, but are you saying my post is "that's incredibly difficult to read...''
just incase!?!? the specs are straight from the Orion web page. I just copied and pasted it to this thread... I thought it was pretty easy to read
1 Top, 1 Bottom: OK the is your top and bottom piece of the box?
depth © = 15.52 in. (394 mm) this is the depth of the piece? so for top and bottom you need 2 piece's (15".52 x 17".5) x 2
width (
= 17.5 in. (445 mm) this is the width?thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
1 Front, 1 Back: OK this is the front and back piece
height (a) = 16 in. (406 mm) this is how tall your pice should be so for your front and back you need 2 piece's (16" x 16") x 2
width (d) = 16 in. (406 mm) this is the length
thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
2 Sides: OK this is your side piece's
height (a) = 16 in. (406 mm) your height you need 2 piece's of (16" x 15".52)
depth © = 15.52 in. (394 mm) your length
thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
—Driver Mounting—
Mounting: Front
this is straight from the site I placed it here as a reference. I mean, I hope you dont think I was saying go cut these pieces and slap it together......
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Hey did this help you at all,lol???????
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or the type R's maybe..!?!?
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I have the xtr 124's they are nice for the price, and I heard the pro's are even better so Awesome..Box Parts—
Box Shape: Square Prism
1 Top, 1 Bottom:
depth © = 15.52 in. (394 mm)
width (
= 17.5 in. (445 mm)thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
1 Front, 1 Back:
height (a) = 16 in. (406 mm)
width (d) = 16 in. (406 mm)
thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
2 Sides:
height (a) = 16 in. (406 mm)
depth © = 15.52 in. (394 mm)
thickness = 0.75 in. (19 mm)
—Driver Mounting—
Mounting: Front
This is the Orion specs for the 15 and here is the webpage you can get all of the info for the sub...I am actual building a box today for 2 xtr 124"S .I went to the site and got the recommended specs then I went to re audio and used there box calc...try it out...link below
Orion specs below...
http://www.orioncara...x?ProductID=587
Steve meade had a box building comp. 3 teams, team 3 went with a sealed box, team 2 went with a aero port and speaker box specs(I think), AND team 1 went with a box design similar to the one you will find in the calculator above....IMHO I would say that the links above should get you a pretty nice box...Enjoy and I wish you a satisfying build.
Edit: Team 1 tuned there box to 35Hz and I'm not sure but i think they hit a 140 in a Toyota corolla, and it didnt look like it had any deadner(lol I think, cant remember for sure and I dont feel like looking back at the vid)
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Ok do you have all the screws in it as possible...Did some of the screws not grab or something. If I was you I would take it out and fix it the right way,But if not unscrew all the screws and turn the sub then pre-drill the holes again and re-screw it to a new spot so all the screws grab.Or take some glue or caulk and go around it then smooth the edges?
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I have 2 15s Im going to be putting into my boat, but now I need a new motor for the boat... so untill im able to put it in there I want to build a box that will do well in an inclosed vehicle as well as a boat.
Dimensions im using is
34" W
18.5"H
20"D
That puts the box @ 5.82³
Max ported air space for these subs are 3³ each so 5.82³ minus sub displacement and port displacement should put it just over 5-5.4³
but im trying to decide on where to tune it... when figureing it out for the boat everyone said 45-50Hz but I am a FEEL the bass kinda guy id rather you loose your breath then to be heard from miles away.
Subs are American Bass DX-15s Single 4ohm wired to 2ohm ran at their full tilt 500rms each.
Im going to be putting the subs on the 34x18.5" face (of course) but putting the port on the side on the 18.5x20" side
so i have roughly 30" of port i can squeeze into it.. lol so that'd put it at 33Hz so I can get 33+Hz outta the box...
so what should I shoot for?!?!?!??!!??!?!
Hey how did these subs cost you..Thanks
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Lol alienate much!?!?!?...I don't have any mid's except the front door mids and I'm only working with 700 watts MAX.The systems sounds good for what I have to deal with...the enclosure just gives a solid sound added with ported from what I'm hearing..And that's probably cause my box is tuned too high and I have no mids..Trust me I am a believer that's why I am asking I would rather measure 5 times and cut once then to have to measure 6 times and cut once,,,or something like that...? Oh yeah and if I had one of the box designs from you guys I wouldn't just burn my first ever hand crafted "Mr.Free design's" Box. I would probably Sell it to some other retard who is just getting into car audio,so I wont be the only person around my way with a box tuned too high to be fit for a decent set of mid's. In my defense I have a short story. I was at my local audio store I had my Girlfriend go inside and buy a dash- kit.While she was in there I was messing around with my set up, burping(LOL burping with 800 watts max.Yes I can say pretintious) a couple notes here and there.Well I asked a guy who was just standing around If he would say that he knows what a good stereo sounds like. He said yeah it sounds like yours.I asked him who he was talking about, and he said me again so I told him that I had 2 12" P.O.S TS-W301R Pioneers the blue ones.LOL I told him it's all in the box. He was surprised, cause I was bumpin! When his friend came out of the shop he told him to come hear my set up cause it sounds just like his. The dude got an attitude and said that it only sounded like that cause its in a van. Anyway I have been around and built alot of systems I am just now getting into the behind the scene mechanics of true numbers and spl. I have seen a T-line built close to spec if not spec with a 15" ported box on top of it crammed into the back of a Daytona that you could hear a MILE(give or take but I'm being serious it had a distinct sound that you would hear a couple minutes before you seen it) a way with the windows down. I know what loud and good sound like.With out Sound deadner and only a 600 watt amp and a 200 what amp I am Bumpin I'm not getting window flex or anything but I sound good for only 800 watts.I highly respect your guys's say in anything,and I would love to get a box design from one of you.Matter of fact I am putting the best of what I got in the back of a 03 Lancer Oz. I have 2 Orion Xtr124's,and 2 Hifonics Hfx12d4's the amp is Coustic600se.I don't know what sub to use for this build cause the Orion has a bigger surround,but has lower Rms its only 250/500.The Hifonics is way lighter, and way cheaper looking,but has Rms 400/800. Thats why I made this thread. Hopefully what I have written has been coherent, and I highly appreciate any and all responses.And honestly the response I get here is what I go off of that's why I'm here.
As always I wish you all a satisfying build and a good night...
Lol my girl comes out of the store and we drive off.I told her about the demo I just did,and what they guys said. She said that some douche bag was in the store, and when they heard my demo the douche bag said to the owner "Sorry my buddy's must have got tired of watching the tv"..Point being is the guys at that shop are buying DD's my dealer is a DD dealer. I have spent less then 300 bucks on my build. I know that I can get way louder with better specs and equipment so how do I know what is better?
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Thanks everyone.Uhmm I personally have 3 box's for 4 subs I have my 2 Orions in a ported box that is 45Hz (I think).In my van it sounds perfect, with a 50Hz tone I got 1 windshield wiper to shake and bounce.And I have a enclosure for a 12,and a ported mtx thunder box, I put the other Hifonics in... I have 2 amps powering all 4 subs My Coustic600se powers my 2 Orion's.They are wired Parallel/series,and in my over tuned box they hit hard.Alot of people say I have the loudest system they have heard in a while.Sorry that was redundant.the other 2 boxs have the Hifonics.I have them hooked to a Jensen 200 ..I personally like the sound of ported and enclosed together it sounds more solid...I know that it is very ghetto to have 3 boxs,I lost the van and Now im going to put what I can in a Lancer OZ... So now I would like to save up for a better set up
= 17.5 in. (445 mm) this is the width?
Has anyone ever been had this happen?
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted
yeah I have a lot of different files also, I should probably join most of them. What was confusing to me, is the cd player stopped working also.