MrFree
-
Posts
129 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by MrFree
-
-
Thanks STEvil I appreciate your help.I think he was saying to wire it to 4 ohms like you started to say(I think it was you) cause he was talking about wiring it up then back down..The way I currently have them wired is positive to opposite terminals negative. So Series coils/Parallel Subs which is 4ohms and I think you said the amp will see it at 2ohms???
-
when does it shut off.full volume,half,quarter etc..
Edit:I am running 1ohm on a 2ohm stereo stable amp with no problems.not saying it will work for long,But it sometimes works....If it cuts off when you touch the volume nob then I would say it is ohms.If it shuts off at half,3/4,or full volume then I would say it is voltage drop.
-
The amp shuts off due to overcurrent protection probably.
Thanks guys for responding.Seriously I mean that.I just got fired and blew the transmission in my van and while I was fixing the van a raccoon came up and attacked me.So ive been having a bad week.Ok back to the set up.I thought that maybe the box was to big and the ohms would drop or somthing,but someone said that what you wire it as will be the end ohms.So I guess it is voltage drop?.Im still confused though I have a quarter farad capacitor,stock battery from walmart and a hotshot box(jump box) How do I deal with voltage drop.What do I need to stop itI revised it for better coherency sorry about that..Also i keep going into protect mode on my amp..my amp or box hates the song "Bass..I love you"... at half volume the amp cuts off.it also happens to alot of other songs but normally at higher volumes..Any ideas? could the ohms be dropping to low....Also in the first post I said I want to blow a sub,2 even.I have 2 blue P.O.S Pioneers and a couple hifonics,Orions,etc..I havnt blown a sub yet and i want to see what it takes..before i blow something expensive..And i was hoping something was set up wrong and that was saving the speakers from bein blown..
yeah..your ohm load will stay the same according to how you wired it and box rise and all that.... you meen voltage drop?
Edit: How do I stop overcurrent or what would cause it
second Edit:Also I got a "D" on my sociology midterm.This week cant get no worse
LOL Sorry 3rd Edit: I talked to my local audio guy and he said that for a dual 4ohm woofer I can just wire one coil to itself(postive-negative)and the other coil i just wire it to the amp the right way..So that both speakers would be at 2 ohms and the coil is still completing its connection.Is this Correct??
-
by the sounds of the video does anybody have any idea what could be the problem.This is when I had to Pioneers wired to 2 ohms mono.
-
sorry about the vid I was bored so i made it awhile ago before the new subs..at 40Hz and lower my new set up gets really loud and i can turn it up to atleast 42 to 45.If its a clean tone my amp can handle it at max volume.lsten to the vid and when the amp goes into protect mode.It will maintain a clean sound at high volumes with deep tones as long as there is no sudden change in the tone.(if that makes since)I did it the other day at a friends house.he had a test cd that dropped all the way to what i thought was subsonic and the woofers and amp did really really good and it got really loud..Ill make a new video of the new test cd and show how it can handle sub sonic but it cant handle Bass..I love you ?? later when I get my car back from the shop...
-
This is before I got the new subs I have four now running off of the 2 amps in the video.the video shows where I am grounding everything and how the amp shuts off at different volumes on different songs.This is before I ever put it at 1ohm.I have had it at 1ohm for 2 days so all together I have probably used the amp at 1ohm for 25min at the most..Also everything is turned down even the sensitivity.Loud is off vol adj is at 0 etc...
-
UHmm I never ran 1ohm bridged until i found that I couldnt wire to 2ohm stereo.I tryed and it didnt work so I thought to myself hmm maybe it will work bridged so I wired them both to mono..Before that i was at 2 ohms and i only wired half of the sub..And yes I have to buy a new amp that is a given I am running 4 12's on less then a 1000 watts..So honestly that is not so painful.right now I have spent 180 dollars on all my equipment so I would rather blow this then something better when i get it..Also the amp has been going into protect mode since I hooked up 2 blue cheap 150 rms pioneers.it happens at different volumes on different songs..example "Bass..I Love you" my set up hates this song my amp will go into protect mode at half volume..some songs I can turn the volume up all the way and everything is nice and clear and hittin.And then some songs can only handle 45/50 max volume some songs can only handle 37/50 max volume.(buy songs i mean bass tester's and bass songs) another example I can take a 50Hz tone and turn it up to 47 or even max volume and not have a problem.Typically the way to succeed at something is to read and research FIRST, then apply what you've read. By bridging your amp at 1 ohm, you've blown half of your amp. That's why only one side works. It's also the reason why your amp kept going into protect...it was basically shorting out. When an amp goes into protect, that means something is WRONG with your installation.
Congratulations, you have to buy a new amp now.
The box being 45Hz,this is the first box i ever built.The guy at homedepot that cut my mdf did a horrible job. By the time i got everything to fit I was at 45Hz.I could be wrong the box could be tuned lower or higher..
-
Sorry I just re-read this thread.uhm overnight I think its 14.04 running.turned off its 13.67.I am reading the voltage at the capacitor.I also have a jump box for hot shotting dead battery's that i plug to the top of the capacitor and ground to the rest of the grounds running to the side panel so all together i have a stock battery,quarter farad,and a jump box..I have not done the big three yet.Have you done the big 3 yet?
What voltage does your battery read with the car off after it's been sitting overnight?
What size power/ground wire are you using? And are you measuring voltage at the battery or amp?
Currently I have the subwoofers wired to 1ohm mono..I tryed to run 2ohm stereo and nothing came on.I have a dead left ground terminal..
-
LOL my first amp was a huge see threw amp from the flea market.I was 17 and the guy that always had a loud car no matter what he drove.He had 2 10's in a T-Line box in the back of his daytona plus a 15" .then a blow threw ranger.Sorry I digress.Anyway he suckered me into giving him my amp for a HU and a smaller 300watt amp.I would have to say my first real amp is whats running my set up now.I have a Coustic600se and a Jenson250
-
what if you made a arm rest out of the port..you could set the the subs faces forward with the portI dont have the space for any other configuration. it is a regular cab ranger, could do 1 up and 1 forward, but it is a stick shift, and i would be hitting the sub with my elbow. subs are SA-8's if it matters.
and thanks for the input guys.
-
Ok that is awesome,very much appreciated.Now could you help me understand your product,price difference,performance.I have a 99 dodge grand caravan I would like to lay enough mat down so that if some one farts I can feel the db from it.Could you give me a ball park price?Also thanks for your time.I'm sure there is other threads where all this has happened over and over again,and I'm sorry for that.I jumped in the first thread I seen and fired away.So again thank you:)
-
that would be beyond awesome.both my local audio dealers said either $420 or $720(I cant remember) for my car(99 dodge grande caravan) for dynomat.Could someone give me a price on the next 3 or so best options...I deff am going to need it.I just hooked up my 4th 12 and now the freq of the rattle has changed it seems like
-
See the only problem I have is I see the tar melted,them cars looked destroyed.BUT there is still some unknown variable that caused that tar to get to the melting tempature needed to get the tar liquid..I dont sell the stuff I just want to debate it before I either A destroy my car or B by something that will take me years to save for.I have 4 12's I just want to bump,so excuse this little back and forth session we've got going here but I need to know.I mean no harm with this Fallacy but you could be a sells men that is trying to sell me on how bad the other guy is..Well we can get at least two of the members who's pics those are and ask them if they installed it incorrectly, but I would rather not bicker back and forth whether or not it's product failure or installation failure.
Now keep in mind that in the first pic the FatMat is still stuck, just a bit melty. That and it required work to get it off.
And in the third pic, not all of it had released. You can clearly see that the area closest still is attached.
-
Thats what I thought I was seeingLooks like improper surface preparation. <-- says the professional painter
-Drew
-
LOL where are them pics from!?!?where are they living that it gets hot enough to melt the adhesive like that.does dynomat or CLD have tar for adhesive also or do they use something else..
-
That sucks the guy at my local audio shop has it on the roof and sides of his walled civic with 6 9512's,7.5k watts its been holding steady for him.You think there could have been some unknown variable that caused your problem...
-
If im not mistaken Rattling also causes lose of sound quality and sound pressure,so even if your not rattling you should sound proof your set up!?!? I also am rattling bad I have 4 12's in a mini van, 99 dodge grand caravan to be exact.I looked up sound deadner and Ive come across alot of options..Peel and Seal,Dyno mat or other mats,foaming the insides of the corner panels,spray on bed liner,I thought about fiber glassing everything then laying thick carpet.Also my local car audio dealer said Fatmat is really good and $50 for 50"ft or something..Im trying for the cheap and best way,could anyone list cheapest to most costly ways to go about this for best sound..
-
OUCH!! Yes i dont know electrical that well.My bad.Also thanks for that indepth response. You are the man!.I wish you a satisfying build and a good night sir thank you..Real quick I took from that, series on one and parell on the other, bridged... I need to be charging at a higher wattage so new alternater.Which makes sense cause im dropping as low as 11.94 volts..Is this about right!?!? Thanks againYour subwoofers have two 4 ohm voice coils each.
That means you can wire a single woofer to 2 ohms (parallel) or 8 ohms (series) or you can wire both woofers to 1 ohm (parallel-parallel), 4 ohms (series-parallel), or 16 ohms (series-series).
With your amplifier being a 2 channel amplfier rated down to 2 ohms stereo your options are to wire each sub to 2 ohms and put each on a separate channel or wire the subs to 4 ohms and bridge them across the channels of the amplifier (this will produce a 2 ohm load to the amplifier because it has 2 channels. Monoblocks do not see the halving of impedence like 2 channel amplifiers do).
Yes, you must use all of the voice coil terminals, otherwise you are only using part of the motor power of the subwoofer. As you dont seem to understand electrical too much I would suggest wiring each subwoofer separate to a 2 ohm load and putting one subwoofer on each channel of the amplifier.
-
SPL or SQ box?? or anything that will fit.Ive seen some nasty boxs with long ports that come from the trunk into the back seat like an arm rest.I think that might help???
-
I revised it for better coherency sorry about that..Also i keep going into protect mode on my amp..my amp or box hates the song "Bass..I love you"... at half volume the amp cuts off.it also happens to alot of other songs but normally at higher volumes..Any ideas? could the ohms be dropping to low....Also in the first post I said I want to blow a sub,2 even.I have 2 blue P.O.S Pioneers and a couple hifonics,Orions,etc..I havnt blown a sub yet and i want to see what it takes..before i blow something expensive..And i was hoping something was set up wrong and that was saving the speakers from bein blown..
-
I just got 2 Orion XTR 124's and they are dual 4 ohm..My question is does the speaker work better when both terminals are used and does anybody know what the best way i can wire up these subs is.I have a Coustic 600se it is 2 ohm x 1 bridged @ 600 watts... What would give me the best sound and power...Also i have a freq gain,sens gain,and bass boost gain...So how should i set these up..should i turn down the sensitivity knob and turn up the bass boost...should i turn down the bass boost and adjust the sensitivity as needed per song(I just bought a gain knob).Im just trying to understand the last mechanics behind my build and how to get max power .Im up for any and all suggestions.. Also are these Orions any good...
-
like I said it is way better then saying i have the blue pioneers. I actually just got 2 new subs they are Orion xtr 124's and with a coustic600se bridge at 2ohms,I finallly got my windshield wiper to flex off of the windshield, only one wiper though. and i used a 50Hz tone..Has anybody heard about the Orions xtr 124 is it any good.
-
I was at my local flea market looking for a epicenter.When I came across an all black 12" sub with no design or mark to tell what it is.I asked the owner how much,he said 45.(I have 2 Pioneer ts-w301r,,,I would have bought the random 12's just so I didnt have to say I have pioneer's anymore) So I told him I want 2,he says grab them,so I did and while doing so he stopped me and said he thought I was talking about somthing else.We went back and forth for awhile and he finally said I could have them both for 90..Well I get home and look them up and all I could find is stuff about a 300rms/600peak hfx12d4..I have the manuel in front of me and it says 400/800..my question is,did I buy a bootleg speaker,And is the hfx12d4 anygood...the price on the box is 119.00 a piece.but I think I found them on amazon for 40 a set..Does anyone have any comments or reviews of the " " 400RMS/800PEAK HFX12d4's Thank you..
-
I have the same problem with a 150watt jenson.I tryed plugging my 2 12" pioneer's into the bridge terminals and it would cut out and pop everytime it hit
Rms and Specs How do I know if the subs Im looking at is worth the cash
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
I just got started in the behind scene of car audio.I'm learning and I have more knowledge/experience then most average up and coming bass heads.I am having trouble with proper sub selection,and I find myself to be confused by everything out there.
Question1: Rms..I have 2 Orion xtr124's they have a beefy magnet and an even beefier surround,But the Rms is 250/500.Now I have a Hifonics HFX12d4 Rms 400/800.Now the Hifonics feels like plastic compared to the Orion,but the Rms is higher.Why????? And the first subs I ever had was Pioneer TS-w301R Rms 150/1000...So I guess what I'm asking is,what am I looking for in a speaker that will get me numbers(SPL). And what is the peak wattage and Rms about.I have a general idea but it still doesn't make sense..
Please Excuse me,but I thought that this would be a good thread for people new like me.If I could get a Pro to explain in English How to know if a sub is worth the $ and what Rms and peak really mean,etc..would be awsome thank you
Question2:I have stumbled onto the DAD site and I found the KMH and the BD 15 inch sub..Does anybody have anything to say about DAD before I buy these. I personally am planing on getting the Crescendo 3500 and 2 KMH15's all together it should cost me $900 Does anyone have a better solution for my SPL needs.I'm a full time student with a full time job and I have a part time wife so Money is very tight so I'm looking for most bang for my buck...Thanks everyone who answers this.I wish you a satisfying build and a good day..