LCort101

I have a Milwaukee rotary I have had for years. I have both foam and the white pads for it. I have done a couple of buff jobs with it, but I'm always guessing on what to do. I've made mistakes and corrected them, but it would be nice to hear from someone who really knows. What technique should I follow? Is there a specific glazing compound you recommend over any others? I read the part about the 3K without applying too much pressure. Is that what I should be doing? I usually use Eurathane two stage paints so I'm usually using the polisher on Eurathane based clear coats. Thanks for any info.

What no one seems to be asking here is if you even have the right speakers for ported enclosures. You know, some speakers work better in ported, and some just work better in sealed. Back in the day when I was doing a lot of building, we had to figure all this out based on the T/S parameters for the speakers provided by the speaker manufacturer. Books like the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook were and still are a great resource if you really want to learn this industry. Now a days all the manufacturers tell us what works best with their individual drivers. Don't just cut up a box because you think you need or want a port. Get the spec's for your speaker. If the air space in your current box supports all the proper displacements, then you can cut a port into it and tune it to the right frequency. Best of Luck to you.

It's a Ferrari. Sorry I don't remember the model, but I don't think it was a Testarosa (an F (something)). It belonged to a Rapper back then.

Houston

I had to split up the post. I guess I had too many pics in one post. Here's the rest. Another Fun One. I almost cut my middle finger off while making the "P" inn ALPINE. Those letters are 1/2" aluminum. Many late nights on this. That's all for now. I have one more thing under my sleeve that I will unleash once the Exploder is done. I am working out the details of it right now, but if this thing comes together jaws will drop. JGrimm knows the details, but he better not tell. I'll just say: Something evil this way comes... Thanks all. Enjoy the pics

Alright guys (and girls), As I mentioned in my first post, I have been around for a little while. My first CA install was in 1986 for my friend Shawn. I was 15 years old at the time so if you do a little math you will see I have installs that are older than most of the people in here reading them. Nonetheless, I have taken some time to take some pictures of my old pictures (yeah, I wrote it right, Pics of Pics). I didn't want to go through the trouble of scanning everything in order to post it. Another side note is that I absolutely hated taking pics of my work back then. It was a hassle getting out your old mechanical or disposable camera, and having to take your film in to be developed, so quite honestly, I hardly ever did it. SO!!! Here are the highlights of 25+ years of stuff I built. Some of it was great. Some of it makes me wonder if I should have worn a mask more often while spraying the contact cement. This isn't everything as I remember doing some jobs that I have no pictures of, but the funniest part is that I looked at some of these pictures and couldn't remember the jobs (Contact Cement again). Always wear your respirators! 1992-93: This was my Civic. It had 16 Orion 10" in it. It was a fun little car. This van belonged to the JL audio/ PPI rep at the time. 16 12W1 if memory serves correctly. 1994: Something for a customer: eight 15's in the extra cab area. Check out that supreme woofer quality lol! Post 1995: The years all blend together at this point. I built the back for this thing. Someone else built the beautiful box. This one was fun: I took a month building it. It was one of my pride pieces. I wish I had more pics of it now.

desk0 I hate to tell you this, but you have two issues you need to look into. You have a drainage problem when your car is off, and you have a low amperage problem when your car is on. First, let's tackle the problem while your car is running. Most Parts places will test your alternator for free. Now it's possible that these guys want to sell you an alternator so if you have the ability to performa LOAD test, do it yourself. Otherwise take your car to two different places and see if they tell you the same thing. I think, from the info you have shared, that your alternator, or voltage regulator is starting to fail. A test from one of these places should help you narrow it down. Now the drainage; I don't know your level of expertise, but there is an easy way to test for voltage drop using a multimeter. The meter needs to be able to handle a 10 Amp draw (most Flukes can do it). Make sure your key is off. Make sure your meter is set to an Amp setting and the leads are plugged in the appropriate place. Disconnect your negative terminal on your battery and place the meter in series between your battery and the negative terminal. Positive lead to the battery, negative lead to the cable that would normally connect to the negative post. anything below .02 amp draw is acceptable. anything above that will drain your battery . Now the disclaimer: If you are not confident you can do this or if you don't know anything about electricity (electronics), Don't do it. Please leave it to a pro. I would hate for you to burn up your car and come back here blaming me. Be safe man...