jrchevy87
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Posts posted by jrchevy87
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YES I WAS ALSO ON SSA
and yeah none of this stuff is cheep
and 99% of south jersey has no idea what a system is other than JL from onestop or car toys. Im just tryin to hook my boy up with something he'll be happy with.
I always love it when someone pulls up with the Walmart special thinking they bump lol. I've heard a few that were decently loud but most of em are shoobies
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pretty much just a good box hes only had pre fabs and he doesnt know what he's missin out on, and once he heard my old 15's hes been wanting something that hits those lows every since.
we could probably do it up at my shop if u wanted.
I've got a garage to work out of too. Traveling is a pain in the ass for me cuz we only got one vehicle and the ol lady takes it to work and my motorcycle is in pieces. I could send u a screenshot and build the box then u could just come pick it up
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well i did my last box for 2 dc 15's a few year ago but im goin back to florida in 2 weeks and idk if i had enough time to do one for him.
and its goin in a 2006 altima SE-R and its on a little hifonics 1000.1 i knew something was wrong when my 2 sa-8's hit harder than the l7
I wish I had the money to get my hands on some really nice equipment but with 2 kids and one on the way I just don't have the money I've been eyeing up sundowns ns series amp and subs to wall the Jeep off but I don't see that in the near future lol
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How crazy is he wanting to go with it. Or does he just want a good box to throw in his trunk
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what do you have for a set-up?
I've got an 04 wrangler with an sa12 and an ap15001d I'm trying to get a better amp but moneys tight. I clamped the AP just under 900 Watts and i have to say I'm pretty impressed for the price. I also did my brother in laws exploder he's running the hifonics zues 5 channel with 8 re audio 6.5 glassed in each door and a re sx18
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The only decent place in Jersey is car toys and theydont do custom boxes just that prefab crap
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I'd have to check out the specs but that's close. What kinda car is it
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As far south as u can go in Jersey. I can give u a demo and u can decide if u like my work
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Where at in Jersey
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I been using this to "fix" my music tonight, not sure if it will make the sound worse/quieter/not hit as hard, find out in the am tom. Hopefully this guide is right... Really not taking me as long as I thought, after 40 tracks, im wizing right through them... lol
Without watching that vid, it looks like one that was posted a while back, as far as i know Decaf made a couple posts and stated you couldn't remove clipping, because it just quiets down the clipping, leaving the waveform (?) unaffected. I wish I could find those threads, a lot of useful info in them.
everytime I used audacity to remove clipping it made the wave triangular or just all kinds of misshaped.... if you zoom in the see the individual sine wave you can see it
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Flaring the ends is always a good idea but isn't necessary. I used PVC pipe for mine with only the outside flared and it sounds good no port noise at all and several others have used PVC with good results
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The din size has nothing to do with the power of the headunit. Most headunits put out around 22 Watts rms regardless of din size
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you could try a remote level control inline with your rcas http://www.sonicelec...d=46&f_269=1140
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just look around int he comparison threads about this xs power did a direct test between kinetik shuriken and xs kinetik was the low man on the pole (go figure) and then shuriken and xs
ive had a shuriken bt100 for 3 yrs now and its still sits at 12.8v and never let me down
Can u post a link to the thread ivebeen looking for it but I'm on mobile and its tedious lol
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So then what is the subs fs used for. This is the only thing I can't reaaly grasp about the thielle small parameters
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I've heard that a subwoofer will have a hard time reproducing bass below its resonance frequency and I'm wondering how true this is. The reason I ask is because I was looking at an fi btl but I noticed the fs is pretty high I don't recall the exact number but I'm wanting to be able hit frequencies 25 and above and the fs is in the high thirties
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We didtn use fleece or anything else
That how my dad did derect onto the wood and in less than a minute he had it smoth to let it dry and work on the next one piece
And I was like 8 and know im 23 so I could be mistaking
ok one more b4 im gone lol, the fleece is great for getting contours and different shapes, its required to give it a baseline shape to build the mat on
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I take it the mat is another price I need to buy. So soak the fleece out it it around my kicks with the mdf ring yada yada staple the fleece tight waitbforbit to dry add th mat? Put resin on that let it dry another coat dry them sand bondo and sand some more
i think u meant stretch the fleece lol after you stretch the fleece soak it, but dont let the resin dry in between coats if it does dry you have to sand it again and that will eat up sandpaper, and for the mat autozone or advance sell it for around 8-10 bux its not the best stuff but it holds up to a re sx18 on 1000 watts, ill see if i can dig up some of the glassing photos for the 18 box and door panels and ill make a log tommorow and shoot you the link but im getting off for tonight its 4 in the morning and i gotta be up in a few hours, o and check my jeep(link in the sig) build ive got a few shots of it fleeced then fiberglassed
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yeah thats all the same stepMy apologies but you said apply reasin and hardener then mat and coat it with resin and hardener? Is that the same step? Only part I'm not understanding -
ill have one up soon ive been busy, were getting ready to paint the enclosure and doors sometime this week if i can work around my jobThat door looks very nice and clean do you a thread of your build so I can check it out?
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Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something newSo no resin hardener?
yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol
you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots
Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener
in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)
Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it?
you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this
That looks clean man I think I get what you mean by dowels... So sand it with 80 grit then use Just little strips of mdf as tall as I want it to stick out mdf ring as big as the speaker screw dowels to kick from the back hidden if it was installed screw mdf ring to the dowels put the fleece over it TIGHT staple it in back as well by screws apply resin hardener sand a little more once dry the high spots or to shape it add bondo let it try sand again finer grit 120 or so them paint?
close you got it good up until the hardener, stretch the fleece and staple it down then apply the resin/hardener mixture then while its still tacky(if its not tacky anymore you have to wait till its dry then sand it to get the next coat to adhere) apply the mat and coat it in the resin/hardener mixture, depending on how strong you want it depends on how many coats of mat and resin you use, for kicks 2 coats of mat and resin are plenty but for sub enclosures you want somewhere around 5 to 7 depending on how thick the mat is, then hit it with the 80 grit spread the bondo sand it nice and prime then paint
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Im not an expert at it but I would use half and half and we would leave them over night to harden and in about over 14 years later the things we did are still hard just like when we finish them... So it's not as hard as it looks it does cause either your afraid of doing something wrong but it shouldnt
But it will take time to master it
half and half is WAY too much hardener. i was using 17 ml to a quart of resin and it was hard in 15 mins
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Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something newSo no resin hardener?
yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol
you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots
Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener
in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)
Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it?
you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this
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Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something newSo no resin hardener?
yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol
you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots
Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener
in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)
Need help ASAP box builder NJ
in SPL - SOUND PRESSURE LEVEL
Posted
Yeah those long distant move are a pita. When does he wanna hear it. I tryed to pm u but for some reason it won't let me on my phone