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jrchevy87

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Everything posted by jrchevy87

  1. I've got a garage to work out of too. Traveling is a pain in the ass for me cuz we only got one vehicle and the ol lady takes it to work and my motorcycle is in pieces. I could send u a screenshot and build the box then u could just come pick it up yeah that would be fine he is definitely going to want to hear your system just for shits lol or hes gonna try to get me to do it but i have way to much to take care of before i move Yeah those long distant move are a pita. When does he wanna hear it. I tryed to pm u but for some reason it won't let me on my phone
  2. I always love it when someone pulls up with the Walmart special thinking they bump lol. I've heard a few that were decently loud but most of em are shoobies
  3. I've got a garage to work out of too. Traveling is a pain in the ass for me cuz we only got one vehicle and the ol lady takes it to work and my motorcycle is in pieces. I could send u a screenshot and build the box then u could just come pick it up
  4. I wish I had the money to get my hands on some really nice equipment but with 2 kids and one on the way I just don't have the money I've been eyeing up sundowns ns series amp and subs to wall the Jeep off but I don't see that in the near future lol
  5. How crazy is he wanting to go with it. Or does he just want a good box to throw in his trunk
  6. I've got an 04 wrangler with an sa12 and an ap15001d I'm trying to get a better amp but moneys tight. I clamped the AP just under 900 Watts and i have to say I'm pretty impressed for the price. I also did my brother in laws exploder he's running the hifonics zues 5 channel with 8 re audio 6.5 glassed in each door and a re sx18
  7. The only decent place in Jersey is car toys and theydont do custom boxes just that prefab crap
  8. I'd have to check out the specs but that's close. What kinda car is it
  9. As far south as u can go in Jersey. I can give u a demo and u can decide if u like my work
  10. Without watching that vid, it looks like one that was posted a while back, as far as i know Decaf made a couple posts and stated you couldn't remove clipping, because it just quiets down the clipping, leaving the waveform (?) unaffected. I wish I could find those threads, a lot of useful info in them. everytime I used audacity to remove clipping it made the wave triangular or just all kinds of misshaped.... if you zoom in the see the individual sine wave you can see it
  11. Flaring the ends is always a good idea but isn't necessary. I used PVC pipe for mine with only the outside flared and it sounds good no port noise at all and several others have used PVC with good results
  12. The din size has nothing to do with the power of the headunit. Most headunits put out around 22 Watts rms regardless of din size
  13. you could try a remote level control inline with your rcas http://www.sonicelec...d=46&f_269=1140
  14. Can u post a link to the thread ivebeen looking for it but I'm on mobile and its tedious lol
  15. So then what is the subs fs used for. This is the only thing I can't reaaly grasp about the thielle small parameters
  16. I've heard that a subwoofer will have a hard time reproducing bass below its resonance frequency and I'm wondering how true this is. The reason I ask is because I was looking at an fi btl but I noticed the fs is pretty high I don't recall the exact number but I'm wanting to be able hit frequencies 25 and above and the fs is in the high thirties
  17. ok one more b4 im gone lol, the fleece is great for getting contours and different shapes, its required to give it a baseline shape to build the mat on
  18. i think u meant stretch the fleece lol after you stretch the fleece soak it, but dont let the resin dry in between coats if it does dry you have to sand it again and that will eat up sandpaper, and for the mat autozone or advance sell it for around 8-10 bux its not the best stuff but it holds up to a re sx18 on 1000 watts, ill see if i can dig up some of the glassing photos for the 18 box and door panels and ill make a log tommorow and shoot you the link but im getting off for tonight its 4 in the morning and i gotta be up in a few hours, o and check my jeep(link in the sig) build ive got a few shots of it fleeced then fiberglassed
  19. ill have one up soon ive been busy, were getting ready to paint the enclosure and doors sometime this week if i can work around my job
  20. yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener) Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it? you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this That looks clean man I think I get what you mean by dowels... So sand it with 80 grit then use Just little strips of mdf as tall as I want it to stick out mdf ring as big as the speaker screw dowels to kick from the back hidden if it was installed screw mdf ring to the dowels put the fleece over it TIGHT staple it in back as well by screws apply resin hardener sand a little more once dry the high spots or to shape it add bondo let it try sand again finer grit 120 or so them paint? close you got it good up until the hardener, stretch the fleece and staple it down then apply the resin/hardener mixture then while its still tacky(if its not tacky anymore you have to wait till its dry then sand it to get the next coat to adhere) apply the mat and coat it in the resin/hardener mixture, depending on how strong you want it depends on how many coats of mat and resin you use, for kicks 2 coats of mat and resin are plenty but for sub enclosures you want somewhere around 5 to 7 depending on how thick the mat is, then hit it with the 80 grit spread the bondo sand it nice and prime then paint
  21. half and half is WAY too much hardener. i was using 17 ml to a quart of resin and it was hard in 15 mins
  22. yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener) Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it? you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this
  23. yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)
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