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OG BudBone

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Posts posted by OG BudBone

  1. If i remember correctly, The stock ones read the Alt Voltage, and not the battery.

    I would def buy an aftermarket one. Stinger will work, But if you need pinpoint accurate go Dakota Digital.

    After reading your Sig, I would totally get one to watch the voltage on that 3.5K. Better safe then sorry.

    alright thanks man, and yeah i really need to invest in a h/o alt haha....but now that i think of it when im playing full tilt, the meter will drop into the 12s and it takes a minute to come back to normal after im done playing for long periods of time. you sure its just the alt its monitoring?

    Yeah they do wonders for sure, lol.

    Im not exactly sure if it is connected to the Alt, or somewhere along there, I may have just read wrong on that, But still regardless i wouldn't trust it. They're meant for just basic voltage reading, not the stuff we do. So its not gonna be quick on the response. So that's why i'd choose an aftermarket digital one instead. Amazon has them around 25ish.

    thanks ill probably buy one soon...they look good anyway haha

  2. If i remember correctly, The stock ones read the Alt Voltage, and not the battery.

    I would def buy an aftermarket one. Stinger will work, But if you need pinpoint accurate go Dakota Digital.

    After reading your Sig, I would totally get one to watch the voltage on that 3.5K. Better safe then sorry.

    alright thanks man, and yeah i really need to invest in a h/o alt haha....but now that i think of it when im playing full tilt, the meter will drop into the 12s and it takes a minute to come back to normal after im done playing for long periods of time. you sure its just the alt its monitoring?

  3. subs on passenger side as far as you can get them and port on driver side is best way to go

    and yes the L port is the best way to go because when you have 2 of the same subs in same

    enclosure its like one big sub if everything is done right.

    would the sound be balanced and not louder on one side? and since i have a hatch, would i have to seal it off some how? or face the subs that way? i hate all the variables haha
  4. Yes, additionally you get to test the port on either side, with the center port you can't, that design let's you test sound in four ways, but as before I could do it any other way if you want me to, this just the one is the one I would recommend.

    this is probably a stupid question but would it be louder on one side than the other? lol
  5. If you are not clear this is my suggestion BUT I could also provide a center port alternative:

    Port/ subs either up or forward firing - side port for better output, driver/passenger sides can be tested:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 33.045 Hz

    Vb = 3.02 ft^3

    External Height = 17 in

    External Width = 35 in

    External Depth = 17 in

    Port Width = 3 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 35 x 17

    Left & Right Sides = 14 3/4 x 15 1/2

    Top & Bottom = 35 x 14 3/4

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 11 3/4 x 15 1/2

    Extension = 13 x 15 1/2

    Assembly guide:

    2xdcl412.jpg

    Also higher tuning usually gives you more output.

    thanks for the help man I really appreciate it, so your saying an L port like that would be better than one in the middle? And yeah I know about the tuning, I just wanna dig down a little bit so I can some lows haha
  6. I have 2 DC Level 4 M2 12s powered by a DC 3.5k. I know im losing a ton of output by having them in a sealed box. If anyone can design a ported enclosure for me, it would be greatly appreciated :)

    this would be my first enclosure build so im a big noob when it comes to enclosure designs

    the max dimensions are 42' wide 24' deep and 24' tall, this will be going in a 97 trans am back seat

    preferably tuned to about 33hz

    thanks in advance

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