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Jmw703

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Posts posted by Jmw703

  1. My old Mazda 3 got hit and totaled so I just bought a civic sedan. I was previously running an ascendant audio arsenal 12 off 800 watts in a ported box tuned to either 29 or 31hz. I ran that setup for about 4 years and loved it.

    Now as I am about to graduate college I'm looking for something a little more low profile to save trunk space. Additionally, I would need to upgrade my electrical again to run anything over about 600 watts which I'm not interested in doing.

    I'm looking at running a small sealed box around .85^3 in the trunk off about 4 or 500 watts. Since AA no longer makes anything this small I have been looking at skar audio, specifically the 10 inch IVX and VD models.

    I was wondering if anyone has any feedback on either of these and how they would sound in this type of setup. I know it won't be as loud as the ported arsenal off double the power but I just can't stand the stock bass any longer. Need a little bit of punch in my life.

    If anyone has a recommendation on a different model other than the two I listed I am all ears.. Or eyes in this case. Thanks.

  2. imho if you want to conserve trunk space go with a 10 inch sub ported. Ported, if built properly, can sound just as clean if not cleaner than sealed. Depending on the sub it shouldnt take up much space at all.

    Not sure what your budget is but look at the SSA Dcon and the Ascendant Audio assassin. Very affordable entry level subs that will kill anything mainstream in the same price range.

    As for an amp check out an AQ750.

  3. Ok, so i have noticed that after installing my new H.O. alt, when playing music on full tilt my engine heat gauge will rise slightly... now this isnt really a problem but when i say, turn the a/c on full blast along with the music it rises to like 3/4 or more which is not good. Also when this happens my a/c is sporadically ice cold then cool or slightly cool. If i turn down the volume the gauge will eventually go back down and things will go back to normal. Also, when im playing music loud for a period of time the fan under the hood near the engine goes into "maximum overdrive" (it sounds louder than usual).

    The only possibility i can think of is that the belt is slipping which could make sense because itsis operating the water pump. I didnt replace the stock belt when i installed the new H/o alt, so thats a thought. Im not super car savvy or anything so this could sound completely idiotic to you smarter people.

    I have no idea if there is something wrong with my car or whats going on. Anyone ever heard of this?

  4. what is idle rpm? that unit doesnt do 220 at idle, you are probably getting something around 120a at idle, 800 watts at 12v is ~ 67 amps plus stock accessories is which probably around 30-50a, to that right there is 97-117a. I think i have the same alt rating, mine does about 125a at idle (800rpm), if your car idles lower, you get less amperage.

    Plus, yes you have the alt upgraded, but an alt is nothing without somewhere to store a reserve. All alts is bad, all batteries is bad, you need to find a medium of alts and batteries.

    having only alts is like having a 18oz steak(HO alt) and not having a stomach(no storage capacity), having only batteries is like having a few crackers(stock alt) and being extremely hungry(huge storage capacity).

    it does 128 @ low voltage (most likely idle). Thats what the test sheet in the box said. My battery may need an upgrade, all i have is a diehard gold battery. But i mean you would think it would be fine on 800 watts. I mean honestly, dropping to 13 v isnt terrible (i think?), but it isnt great, especially with what im running.

    And to answer your question kranny, the amp is grounded straight into the sheet metal on the top of my trunk ceiling. I can snap a picture if you would like.

  5. I just upgraded my stock alt to a mechman 220a alt in my mazda 3. I have all 0 gauge wiring done under the hood. This helped my voltage significantly. Previously at idle i was charging at 13.2 or so at the amp, lights dimmed significantly. After the alt upgrade im charging at 14v at the amp and lights dim slightly at full tilt.

    All i am running is a brz1200.D @ 2 ohms.

    With the new alt and rmp at idle i tested 14v w/ no music and anywhere from 12.9 to 13.8 on full tilt depending on the song. (tested at the battery)

    Ok, so heres my question, i dont know much about electrical and stuff, but should i be dropping this much on only 800 watts or so? My lights still dim slightly but if my voltage is where it is supposed to be i could care less.

  6. Ermmm...big 3 includes alt - to batt -

    slip a ring terminal from your batt - under a mounting bolt for your alt.

    Big 3:

    Alt + to Bat +

    Bat - to chassis

    Engine - to chassis

    Alternator uses the engine ground, no?

    I have the big 3 done correctly, but I don't know what to do about the neg from alt to batterywhen installing this thing. I have seen pics of other mechman alts and some have a ring for the negative on the casing but mine doesn't.

  7. t9cmc9.jpg

    Just got my mechman alt for my mazda 3. Excited to put it in!

    But first, i was wondering, the tag/sheet that came in the box says i need to add a Negative wire from the alt to my battery negative. Im not really sure how to do this, the alt only has a terminal for the positive and a plug for the OEM harness. The other bolts on the casing of the alt are too small to fit a ring terminal on.

    Could someone clarify what im supposed to do here.?

    I already did the Big 3 for my old alt so i currently have 0g from positive alt to battery, 0g from ground to battery and 0g from ground to chassis.

  8. I don't really know how much coverage you would need so as for price I have no idea, looks too low though. But since you only want to be able to carry out a conversation I think you could do it.

    As for second skin, I recently deadened my trunk lid ,Trunk walls ,Trunk floor, and trunk ceiling with damplifier pro. Stuff is amazing. It killed most of the trunk rattle I previously had from my sub but I also noticed a significant decrease of road noise from the rear wheels. I have a Mazda 3 and mazdas have like no sound deadening anywhere so there should be a nice difference in your civic since its noisy as well.

    However, damp pro is mainly for rattles and not road noise although it did help, I have heard luxury liner is amazing for actually keeping road noise out. I also hope to use that product in the future as well as deadening my doors with more damp pro.

  9. I'm using a kenwood ddx318 with USB to iPod connector that came with my old alpine HU . I don't use different sources, I just got an iPod to replace my phone because I don't like having to blas my HU volume to its limits when with an iPod I barely use half volume.

    So best course of action would be to put a test tone on my iPod ( my main source ) and set the voltage with that rather than a cd ?

  10. Ok so I have a quick question..

    Say I set my gains using a DMM and a test tone on a CD.

    Let's also say i set the volume on the HU at 28/35 when I do this.

    Now I should be alright if I dont turn the HU past 28 with a cd. ( I know it's not perfect without a oscope but it's close).

    But here's where my question is what if I use a different source such as an android phone via aux. My phone plays significantly lower than a cd, so to achieve what was previously 28 volume I have to turn the HU higher.

    Wouldn't I still be clipping past 28, even at a lower volume?

    Or a second source I could use is an iPod via USB which is a little bit louder than a CD ( these are using the exact same audio file might I add). If I turn the volume to 28 the iPod will be louder than the CD.

    Would I be risking clipping due to the higher volume or does source volume not matter if I'm staying below the set volume of 28 ?

  11. i went with 20 all around on my car , i can put up some pics if you want.

    The legal limit is 35% front 18% back in my state but police in my area dont ever stop you for it.

    So in my opinion, if its laid back where you live go with 20% all around. 35% is way too light and isnt really worth it.

  12. well im starting a new plan i was stuck with one with one of my ex girlfriends and i hated it!

    so anyway new shit in my life and i was looking at the Iphone4s from Verizon wireless i got every add on, but im stuck on the

    Smartphone Data Packages

    What will be the main difference between the mobile Hotspot via the one that doesnt have it also, do they use up the GB if i just mostly surf the internet and watch you tube videos and check email? or what exactly does each gb mean?

    1GB = one gigabyte of data usage. This can be used via internet, youtube, email, even weather updates (i suggest turning off any auto updating apps that connect to the internet as this will drain your data) Most phones from verizon come preloaded with a data usage app so make sure you dont go over your data cap to avoid extra charges.

    Mobile hotspot is completely unnecessary for most people. All it does is allow you to share your 3g/4g ( use your phone like a router ) with another device in connection range. This device may be anything that uses a wifi connection (laptop, phone, ipad, xbox, etc. As far as i know this uses your data and kills your battery, you can obviously turn it off but it is just another worthless charge on your bill.

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