RF4LIFE

So I'm on the mechman website, I click HighOutput Alts- Ford truck- Explorer- 4.0L V6 SOHC- and then I'm stuck with the year.... I have a 2004 but idk what the rear cover there referring to is? The options are black or gray? And they both lead to a different recommended alt. where is the "rear cover"?

When you say equal to the d3100 do you mean have the same CA or Ah?

Well one shuriken sk-bt120 has about twice CA

I'm not planning on running my system when the car is off I just want to stable the voltage drop

Ok thanks, is there an CA or Ah to RMS Needed conversion? Like if I have a 6000w Amp draw (4000wRMS with the amp efficiency factored in) what CA would I need? Or is there a certain Ah I need?

This is NOT a vs post sorry about that

To start off, I'm new to batterys! I replace my car one when needed but other than that there all the same. It has been suggested to me by some fourm members to use 2-3 XS Power D3100 batterys (if space is permitted). Now as we all know the D3100 has 1360CA, 110Ah, and a size of 12.99" x 6.81" x 8.43". Do I went online to price it and I found it for around $370. And just out of curiosity I looked at some other battery's to see what elts there was. I found a Shuriken SK-BT120 for $81 cheaper, relative same size, 1240CA larger, and 10Ah larger. Now this is now a vs post but I'm confused why its cheaper? I just want to know if there's something I don't know about the D3100 that makes it better it there another thing I'm missing other than CA and Ah?

Ok thanks for the input

I found that an class A/B amp has around 50% eff and a class D amp has arround 70%; in that case i would need a single 525A (536.9 to be exact) alt. or two 275A Alt.s .... dose this sound right for an 8000w peak system?

ok, i have two 18 foot 1/0 awg wires should i: a. Run one as a Positive from the front Batt to the Back Batt(s) and run the other as a Negative from the front Batt to the back Batt(s) +Wire ground is always better than a Regular Frame Ground -Current draw (360.9A) may be too much for the single 1/0 awg (350A) Positive b. Run both as Positives from the Front Batt to the back Batt(s) and just do a regular frame ground +Dual 1/0 awg Positives should provide more than enough current (up to 700A) for the 360.9A needed -Regular Frame Ground may not be enough

i have heard about running the two batts, amps, and the alt together in a close circuit so there is no interference with the main batt and alt? should i do that or just run them together as one big system?

should i run the wire/Alt./batt as a separate system than the car, or run them together? And should i replace the stock Alt. or just add to it?

should i run the wire/Alt./batt as a separate system than the car, or run them together? And should i replace the stock Alt. or just add to it?

Dose anybody know the Efficency of an class AB (T8004) and a class D (T20001bd) amp? So above he used 80%, let me know if this is the correct math? 4100w RMS / 0.80(%) = 5125w Needed to get the RMS 5125w / 14.2v = 360.9A 360.9A + 60A for system = 420.9 Amp Alt. needed So for this system (@80%) I should replace the stock 130A Alt. for somthing like a 425A Alt. ? OR what do you guys think about running a compleat sepreat system? I could run a 360-375A Alt. in addition to the stock 130A Alt. and just run a compleat separate wires back to dual battery's ? Which would be better? Space is limited so I could only run 1 or 2 extra batteries?

Well should I just get like two Yellow Top batteries? As big as I can fit?