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IndianaBassHead

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Posts posted by IndianaBassHead

  1. going from the inner wheel to wheel you should have room on the side for bracing..i did a 6 15's box for a buddy pretty similar to what youre doing and had all thread bracing on the sides like im talking and had plenty of room to do it

    Ok, I will redesign the box and see what I can come up with. How many braces do you think I would need? Would 3 top to bottom between each pair of subs and 3 side to side do it? I would think that would be more than enough.

  2. What's up everybody? Just got done talking to nick at Obsidian Audio and I'm ording 6 obsidian 18's this weekend. I will be doing subs up/port back in my tahoe. It will be b-pillar back. I've been playing around with the box design and it will be right around 30 cu ft. with around 420 sq in. of port. This is my first multi-woofer build and I really need help with bracing. What would be the best type of bracing I can use? And how do I calculate port bracing into the sq in. and tuning of the port? Thanks for the help! Also, can I get by with doing single layered sidewalls or should i do 1.5" thick all the way around?

  3. I found a good deal on a chrysler 300, so I am going to be buying it next week. I've been thinking about the build and need some help. Everyone I talk to says it's best to fire the subs forward and seal them off. My question is, would I be better doing 2 10's forward firing or two 12's or even 15's facing the trunk? I kind of like the idea of being able to seal off the back of the box if i face them forward giving it a more factory look. But will 2 10's facing forward be close to as loud as 2 15's facing the hatch? The subs will be sundown sa series tuned to 28 hz aero ported by the way. Thanks!

    edit: will only be running them off an arc audio ks 1000.1bx for now. so only 500w per sub.

  4. Not to thread jack, but I previously had my system ground with a - wire front to back with no chassis ground. had just a tiny drop at idle. none while revving. Redid my wiring and now I just have my back battery and amp grounded to chassis. At idle I drop down to 12v at full tilt. drops to 13 while driving. Now I am going to have to rewire again lol. And I do have the paint sanded on a ground straight to the frame. I'm only running under 4k watts and i have a 270 amp alt, d3400, and shuriken bt80. So there shouldn't be any voltage drop at all. I agree that a wire front to back will do better in some setups.

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