Toby Ratcliffe
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Posts posted by Toby Ratcliffe
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I mix saw dust and wood glue.
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Normally people only use one set of outputs, but if you are using a small gauge speaker wire due to not being able to acquire a larger gauge, having two runs might help a little bit.
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Should still be right at 2 ohms, unless you are using high resistance speaker wires.
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Get the AQ2200 if you can afford it and run it at 2 ohms. You can upgrade to a second 18 and still have enough power for both.
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It is not .5 ohm stable. It may, or may not work in your situation, but you won't know until you have it hooked up. Why do you need .5 ohms? Did you order two dual 2 ohm subs?
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Make a lamp out of it. Strip the motor off of it and hang it on the wall, just in case you get a woofer of the same size in the future you could use it as a template instead of getting saw dust on your new woofer.
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But why..... You can buy the sub new for $75 on amazon. Why not upgrade to a better sub than waste money on a recone for a piece of garbage. You might as well run Sony Xplods with this mentality.
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Left a review when I saw them pop on the amazon store.
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I am in Altus, and have both the DD-1, and the CC-1.
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Why a second bottle of Nitrous? Are you really going to use it that much? I understand the idea of symmetry, but wouldn't that space be better suited for a battery bank?
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What is with all of these break-in questions lately. Give it a clean signal and just play the shit out of them. You are more likely to break them when the suspension gets loose than when they are stiff. If they start to smell turn it down.
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Somewhere between .08 an .1 cubic feet.
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I would go from your head units front RCAs ot the active xover input, and select 2ch input mode. Then run each output to your 3 separate amps.
Run the sub off of your rear/subwoofer RCA output.
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Can someone please help me on how to start a thread on my own. I am trying to make one of my build for SOTM.
Thanks,
Jordan
Click that and then start new topic.
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Are you using an active crossover, or amplifier crossovers?
Is your head unit selectable between rear and sub outputs?
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I interpret that as if you are running a three way active component set and a separate sub amp?
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Depends on what you are doing really. Are you running a sub, mid and tweeter amp?, 3 sub amps? 3 tweeter amps?
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Yes, I would max out anything that could boost your output causing you to go into a clipping condition, and then adjust down from there.
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Jacob has them rated from 80-5K Hz. I would pick a tweeter that overlaps that frequency range and then adjust the crossovers until you find what works.
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I would check to see if you are tuned properly. Check your voltage, gains, crossovers. Get clamped to make sure you are outputting the right amount of power, etc....
Then let someone look at your box, and find out where you are losing deebeezz.
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And finally a video. Not really a lot going on here. Just 2 views of a 0-60Hz sine wave sweep. The quality isn't the best since yet again I was using my iPhone 4 and the image stabilization in iMovie.
It sounds mechanical, but almost all of the noise is from the cars body panels. I only have the trunk lid done with some peel and stick Rammat. Lots of interior noise in the second view. I will fix that over time.
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I hate to do a build log before I am completely done, but it looks like I won't get much else done between now and when I leave for Korea, and when I get back, I will probably upgrade, so the build will start over at that point.
Starts off as a stock Jetta with an upgraded head unit. Not the best of head units, but it does what I need for now. It is a Kenwood DDX-418. The GLI model comes with from the factory with a Monsoon audio system. This consists of a factory 8 Channel amp running a tweeter and woofer in each door. It sounded good, and got loud, but there was significant lacking of the low range frequencies. Anything below 80Hz was either distorted, or non existant depending on the frequency. What I was looking for in my build was to replicate the frequencies below 80Hz accurately, while still being able to crank up the bass when the song begged for it.
For my upgrade I decided to go with 2 Sundown SA-10D4s. I heard nothing but good things about the SA line from Sundown, and expected these woofers would perform to my needs. For power I figured I would try what was recommended by the manufacturer, and go with Sundowns own SAX-1200D which matches the RMS value of the woofers at 1 Ohm. I knew from the beginning that a properly built enclosure would make or break my build, so I researched and found a designer that like Sundown, had the most positive reviews.
I filled out a project assessment form after I decided on my equipment, and patiently waited for my design based on my parameters. What I got in return was exactly what I expected. Professionally completed blueprints with everything taken into consideration.
With that done I started on the build. And now the pictures: (sorry they are so out of focus and grainy. Using my iPhone 4.)
what ohms would this be
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No, 8 gauge is pretty large. The only time you would be limiting power is you are running like 1000 watts, and only running a 16 gauge wire. Then you could double up that and it would allow a bit more current flow, but probably not an audible difference.