Toby Ratcliffe

You could try something like this:

From what I have built in the past, you need to be pretty specific with box specs in a given environment when dealing with ported enclosures. Dealing with low numbers of SA-8s in particular, you are going to have to create a labyrinth of porting in order to create a rectangular port the required length, or have an external port. Also you have 800 watts. Those SA-8s are conservatively rated at 500 each. I would recommend going with a different woofer, and keep it as simple as possible. Is this box going under the rear seat? I don't have a 2011 crew cab Silverado to see where I would mount some subs. I have never been able to find a great space in a quad cab.

If you are using the amp to power the mids and tweets, why use the deck's crossover? 6 db slope is crap. The Kicker amp has a built in 12db slope crossover. Just theorizing at this point, but what it sounds like is happening, is that the output of the deck, once the crossover is engaged, actually lowers the RCA level output voltage because the signal is now going through a filter. To verify, you could hook up a scope or DMM on AC volts and compare the outputs with the same source playing a sine wave in the frequency range that is missing, like around 70-80 hz.

What did you have hooked up to it?

Like a behind the seat of a truck wedge enclosure?

Long time without an answer... that sucks. 1. 600W is what is recommended. They will take more, but your output won't get much better. 2. Build quality is typically the difference in weight. Better materials for speaker strength tend to weigh more. 3. yes, you will reach a similar result. 4. I pick my subs based on the amount of space I want to give up, the sound goal I am after, and within the budget I am looking to spend. If you have a set power, and a set space already laid out, figure out the max amount of cone area taking into account rated x-max that fit within those parameters. If I was a betting man I would bet that 2 sa-12s would hit harder than a single x-12 at rated power.

Can you take a look at the manuals link for the newer amplifier models. For me it just links back to the product page for that amp. My question though is about the SAX 100.4 v2. Does the remote knob only affect the rear channels, or the whole amp? Likely going to be using it to power the SA6.5 Components passively on the front channels, and a set of coax speakers for the rear that I want to be able to turn down/off for normal ops, and turn up/on for camping/working in the driveway.

If your budget will support it, that is what I would go with. The extra power will help in a sealed box.

Depending on the vehicle one SD-2 12" Dual 2 ohm wired in parallel to bring down to 1 ohm on a SAE-600D would be fine for what you want. Two SD-2 12" Dual 4 ohm all wired parallel would also see a 1 ohm load on a SAE-1000D and would give you a bit more low end. Budget and space is what will be the deciding factor.

Glad to see this is still being updated. Thanks again for taking over.

Thank you for doing this. I could go into a long explanation why I was disconnected from society, but I think it is more important to say I am doing much better today. That is all for now. 3 new audio builds coming, along with some more goodies.

Battery Tenders are so cheap, there is no reason not to have one. But yeah, it sounds like you had a parasitic load that completely drained your battery, which isn't good for any battery. Also you didn't mention what charger you had. Wrong charger could also ruin a battery.

Thank you for the clarification. Ordering the 3400 tonight.

I contacted XS back in Feb of this year looking to replace my starting/car audio battery. I have a 2003 VW Jetta 2.8l, and am running the factory monsoon amp for the highs, and a Sundown 1200D for my sub stage. I was told back in Feb that a D3400 would be the best battery for my application that would fit in the stock location without modification. I look on the new application guide today because I am ready to order, and the guide is recommending the D4700. Like I said, I am ready to order now, which battery do I need, and what price can I get today. Toby

Eq on head unit needs to be set flat when using the dd1. Once you have the gains set, you can adjust the eq down only. Remote bass knob should be set to max before using the dd1.

Same here. I was watching until the feed died. Went to a medical appointment and came back to watch my name get drawn for 4th.

I had a friend who had a Mazda truck with 9 12s walled. He had a camper shell and the rear glass was tinted 5%. Tint law stated that he had to have a 1 cubic foot square that was clear if he was going to use 5%. He cut out a perfect 1 ft square and was never bothered again. Find the law to be certain. Maybe a video head unit with a reverse camera might work.

That is pretty much a wall at that point. Wall that bad boy, and do a center port. That $h!t will get loud quick.

so 13 x 4 = 52. I really don't think you are going to get 4 side by side. Maybe a fiberglass wave along the top of the box with speakers facing up to reduce the overall width. And fire the port(s) forward.

Measure the outside of the subs. Most 12" subs are closer to 12.5". 12.5 x 4 = 50"

As far as the hard bed cover, there are plenty of those out there. I don't remember the brand name, but go pick up an issue of minitruckin magazine.

Next question - Half wall of 4 12L7s. I don't think that 4 12L7s will fit in a flat wall in an s10. I think the dimensions were around 46 inches, but I havent measured an s10 for subs in a while, and only had 1 extended cab. Next question was about dual amp wiring. Super simple, just do the power stuff twice. I would run from the rear battery using ring terminals, so no distribution block is needed. You can daisy chain the remotes no problem. You can use y-splitters for the RCAs, or see if the output on the amp is a full pass through. Next question dealt with box design. Like I mentioned before, I would put the batteries and amps on the floor, and create a false floor for the box to sit on. Once you do that, you can see how much room you have for the box and make it to fit with the required air space. If they will fit side by side from wall to wall, that would be pretty awesome, I am just not sure of what it measures wall to wall.

I am trying to wrap my head around the original post. S10 - I am guessing extended cab? First question I think you asked was if the L7s could handle 1000 Watts each. They are rated at 750 Watts, so they should be ok, just turn it down if it starts to smell. Second question was about making more room for amps/batteries. I would put them under the box and create a false floor for the subs. A little harder to access, but much cleaner when it is done. Third question has to do with an isolator. I would recommend if you are going this far with a build, you should go with the same agm batteries front and back, so an isolator is not needed, unless you play the system for extended periods of time with the truck off. I will come back to more once I put the steaks on the grill.

to create a 1 ohm load on a dual 2 ohm speaker, connect both positives and both negatives, and run that to your amp. This is called parallel wiring. Series wiring like you described at the end would make your amp see 4 ohms.

I have read this a few times and am really curious of the results. It sounds like a good way of having different tuning options for daily and competitions. However you would still have the port displacement of the larger non-removable port.