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Eduardo Andrade

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Posts posted by Eduardo Andrade

  1. Help me build my box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    Okay guys, I really appreciate the help. Today I just took accurate measurements of my trunk, and it looks like my box is going to be 15.5" tall max, 35" wide max, and those are the dimensions I want to use, 15.5" for height and 35" for width, now for the 3rd dimension (depth) I was wondering how an L shaped port like you guys did affects the internal volume and/or tuning frequency, I was messing around with the Speaker Box Tuning Calculator software and I'm assuming they just use a straight port. The way the box is designed doesn't matter to me, I'll keep the L shape if I have to, but what I really want is a box 15.5" high and 35" long to wall off the seats when I pull them down. Anyone wanna help out here? By the way, thanks for all the help guys! Really appreciate it! Bare with me, I'm kinda new :P lol. Oh yeah! And what kind of software do you guys use to draw/design the box out?

  3. Help me build my box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    I was actually hoping to have the port in the middle. I'm not asking you to redesign me something but it would be cool if you could!

    Although, asking for a design WAS the intention of this post. lol so yea, that'd be cool if you could!

  4. Amps in 12-1500 range?

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    Although 200's a lil more than I wanted to spend and I'm sure I can still come up with the money, I thought I read in his thread that he was out of the HPN1500's already.

    Ope didn't see he was out. My bad! I've run the AP15001D and it's good for the price! But spend the little extra and get the AP15001D not the APSM! APSM have more distortion..

    Thanks a lot! I read that APSM's were known for doing rated better than AP's. But if the APSM's distort a lot more I think I will go with AP's instead.

  5. Help me build my box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Hey guys, the one area I'm least experienced in is building boxes. In fact, I've never built one, I mean I've watched videos of people building them, and I know I can do that part, my friend who said he's built boxes before said he would help me, but I've never DESIGNED one before.

    I was wondering if you guys could help me out with that part, either quickly design one for me or teach me how to design one.

    This is what my trunk looks like

    2q2qwc2.jpg

    Not perfectly measured, but to be safe we can say it's 17in tall, 37.5in wide, and 31in deep.

    I plan on using 2 sa-12's and I want a simple ported box tuned at maybe 31hz if possible. The subs and port will both be facing forward (into the cab) so that when you pull the rear seats down you hear/see the subs and port.

  7. Amps in 12-1500 range?

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    So I called every dealer that supposedly sold concept products within a 50 mile radius in my area, and none of them sold amps or they did not represent them anymore. My last call was to the Concept company them selves to ask if they would sell to the general public and they said no. :( So I guess my choice is gonna be the AP15001d

  10. New speakers on Stock Headunit?

    in Mid's and highs

    Posted

    I have found you two options, if you don't have the money I recommend you stick with a single din aftermarket head unit and get this dash kit http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5716-Taurus-Sable-Harness/dp/B0002BEYFE/ref=pd_cp_e_0

    or you can get the extra space for a double din and get this dash kit http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5718-Single-Installation-2000-2003/dp/B003E3QS2Y

    But since I know you don't want to spend that kind of money stick with the first option.

  12. Amps in 12-1500 range?

    in Amplifiers

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    I'm having trouble finding good amps, I only need around 12-1500 watts at the moment.

    I'm hoping I can get the money for the HPN1500 on ebay before the last one is bought out :(

    But if I can't get it I was wondering if you guys could list a couple decent 12-1500 watt amps.

    If I couldn't get it I thought about going with the Cadence F1200-1d

    I'm not too sure on how this amp performs, but I was wondering if you guys could recommend a couple others.

    Edit: If a mod could please delete the other post, I clicked the post button twice and it posted it twice, plus the other post has errors.

  15. SK-800.1D/SK-1500.1D Amplifier Information Thread

    in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)

    Posted

    "god damn boy."

    That statement was totally uncalled for; there is no need for name calling. We are all here for the same reason, and that reason is car audio! Plus, I know you wouldn't say any of that to my face now, would you?

    50 is not low, 15 is. You still made a fool of your self...

    I was looking on SSA site at the specs on the SK-1500D, and it says that the frequency is 50-270hz. Are the specs on here are the specs on SSA correct, because I LOVE those low notes!!!!!

    I didn't say one time that 50 was low as I can recall. I said, I was looking on SSA site at the specs on the SK-1500D, and it says that the frequency response is 50-270hz. Are the specs on here or are the specs on SSA correct, because I LOVE the LOWS. I didn't one time say that 50 was low.

    Exactly why you made a fool of your self. If you know for a fact that 50 is not very low, at least not as low as 15, then why would you ask if the specs are correct? You should know.

  20. Sound Reactive LED Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    Gotcha.

    If the experiment works, a simple low pass capacitor between the line driver and controller should be able to filter out the higher frequencies.

    An easy 6dB slope should be fine to give you your breakpoint in frequencies.

    If your ambitious, through an active crossover in between the line driver and controller for adjustable control on the fly.

    Or buy a line driver with a built in crossover.

    An LED controller with a mic should also have a sensitivity adjustment that you can fine tune, in case you want to ease into the project?

    Thanks many for the idea, and yeah, the controller does have a sensitivity adjustment knob, so setting gains and going too high shouldn't be a problem because it doesn't seem easy to do. Just turn the sensitivity up a small notch, and start the gain at the lowest point, if it still doesn't light how I want it I can turn the sensitivity up some more. Still not lighting properly? Turn the sensitivity down again, and turn the gain a small notch up. Turn sensitivity up. Repeat the process until you can achieve desirable results by only having to use the sensitivity knob. By the way, does the sub out on HU's only put out low frequency? Or is it the same as every other rca? I may be mistaken but I thought that was the way it works, maybe it's only labeled sub because it's selectable (so you can turn the vol up and down separate from the main volume on the HU)

  21. Sound Reactive LED Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    When I say accurate lighting, I mean because I know the mic will pick up other sounds unless it's made to pick up only certain frequencies. So instead of using the mic I want the device to only hear whatever comes out of my amplifier, which will be bass (lower frequencies). So I have clean sound going to the controller therefore accurate lighting. Kind of like when you wire led strips directly to the amplifier, only I don't want to do that because I know the amp wouldn't be able to handle as many leds as I throw at it, with the controller the leds are powered by the battery, up to 6a worth, so the only thing it needs now is the amp/line driver to tell the controller to tell the lights when to light up. If I use only the controllers mic, I wouldnt want to have to turn the bass up like all the way with my mids/highs low just to get my lights to light up, I want the levels of the volume to be as I want it, but I only want the lights to light up to bass. That's the whole point of this project/experiment. I think I may buy both the amp and the line driver and maybe a couple of controllers to see what happens.

  23. Sound Reactive LED Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    I'm saying use "line out" not" Speaker Out" You hook that thing to your amps speaker terminal and it will die. you should plug an rca into a line out of your amp if it has it, or split (y adapter) off one going to your amp already and then strip the other end and hook to where the mic was. All in all its a bad idea all the way around if you arent using the microphone imho.

    ok, so I would use the line driver I just showed you and strip one end of the rca's and wire it to that? and wicks, the point of this project is to have accurate lighting, I'm not going to use the mic and this is a project/experiment. I don't mind overdriving the controller, as long as all my other equipment isn't damaged.

  24. Sound Reactive LED Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by Eduardo Andrade

    That microphone is like you say, a speaker. Just opposite, instead of turning electrical energy into acoustical energy, it turns acoustical energy into electrical energy. But, the amount of electrical energy is ity-bity. That's a scientific term by the way, it means small.(probably millivolts) You will be throwin' way way too much energy into that controller using your amps speaker outputs. A "safer" method, and i really don't approve of this, is to use an extra set of line-outs hooked to it. That should be more than enough and you will probably still need a resistor. Maybe use the amps line out if it has it.

    -=-=-=-=-=-=-=

    This part is only applies to daydreamers and Chuck Testa

    Something that could more reliable but stupidly expensive is to find an o-scope and with some McGyvering use it to control the lights, since it will be using a waveforrm of the electrical signal sent to the amp instead of just a raw signal. But that would just be stupid

    So you mean strip an rca and wire the microphone input to it and connect the other end of the rca to the amplifiers output? That's what I was asking earlier, though I don't think I would want to do that, that would be the last thing I do. Does the input sensitivity have to match the first amplifiers? The EV2.200 has a selectable switch and one of the options is 100mV, is that low enough?

  25. Sound Reactive LED Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    So why not just use the mic for input?

    An amp boosts voltage and current so it's overkill for a buffer between your HU and LED controller.

    How about a line driver that just boosts voltage and would have its own "volume" knob?

    The mic IS what I will be using for input, what I'm saying is I will seperate the mic from the wires (cut the mic off) and I'm pretty sure what's left will be like speaker wire, right? I just cut a mic in half and there was two cables. But I will take those two cables and put them where the subs would go on an amplifier, but on their own amplifier. Even though the ev2.200 has selectable voltage and doesn't require a lot of power, the line driver is a great idea!

    I found this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html only thing is, I'm confused on what those red and black cables are, I'm guessing they're power/ground cables. I'm having a hard time finding a line driver that accepts speaker wire for output and the only next cheap thing is to go with the amplifier I posted earlier.

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