Landon22

I had the exact same situation when I was using 16 gauge wire for my sub, when I switched to 8 gauge, made a huge difference cause I wasn't restricting current. 16 gauge, well at 2 ohms, can only transfer 300 watts, lower impedance is even worse. wow. really? mines wired at 1 ohm but it's not an expensive upgrade so I think I'll do it.

New Video, they're broken in for sure now. lol

They're actually 6.5's. Sorry about the horrible clarification everyone. Yes, it makes a pop sound, and definitely destroys the mechanical limit. However, I took the grille off and looked at the wiring and saw that there were some bad connections, soldered the wire to the speakers, and there is very, very little distortion. I do however believe the bass will continue to destroy the speakers.

Hello all I have a major rear deck rattling problem. Actually, major isn't the word for it, more like catastrophic. The noise that comes from my rear deck is unbearable when the volume is just on 20, with the amp gain to the subs at a little over halfway. One of my rear deck speakers is actually dying (might already be gone). Is there any idea of something I can use to stop some of the resonance/rattles? Anything that is cheap? Can you actually produce too much bass from subs to damage your rear deck speakers? 2 12's, each hitting around 600 rms each.

Question: If I upgrade my speaker wire from 16 gauge to 8 gauge, do you think there will be a noticeable difference? Also, any estimates on how much the big 3 costs? 100 dollars for a kit which i'm pretty sure is over priced.

Alpine CDE-122 Head Unit Polk DXi525 (5 1/4) x2 Polk DXi650 (6 1/2) x 2 Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1d Soundstream T6 12 x2 Streetwire Capacitor Song: Excision - Sleepless The new subs are so nice, they hit the lows louder, the higher notes not as much, but we also did a little tuning to the amp. I'm thinking about building a ported box. I'm getting either some Boston Acoustic tweeters or some off brand ones soon, and also carpeting the box, and getting better gauge speaker wire. Lastly, I'm doing the Big 3, how much of a difference can you tell after you've done the Big 3? The subs are around 300 off their RMS, they're getting somewhere around 550-600 Watts. I would love feedback, comments, and suggestions sorry about the bad recording lol Edit: New video!

Well, I know you guys all said Skar, but i'm being stubborn, I just really want some Soundstreams the above calculations in that picture are wrong by the way, I recently made a topic about building a new box and need some help. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139864-2-t6-12-soundstreams-a-tight-space-ported/ here it is, thanks <3

haha, well shit, my system makes most the kids at school look like i'm doing SQ, they turn their's to 45 and everything is distorted so bad and it's not even louder while i'm sitting at 20 but I was just curious really. my trunk total has 9.3^3, i can measure what can actually be used tomorrow. if i just make the box deep edit before posting: i'm an idiot. do you think I could angle it in to fit this into my trunk? I'm sure you'll need the measurements of the opening of the trunk. if this is the case I can just say to hell with trunk space and get the soundstreams your post inspired me to stop being lazy and go do it <3

Omega, so you're saying that Skar/Sundown are basically the 2 best? I mean I wanted some DD's, then I wanted some Soundstreams. I'm looking into Skars now I'm definitely doing my next box ported even if I have no trunk room. I can just make an extremely deep box xD Srp, thanks. I'll probably end up saving up my next two or three paychecks and doing the big 3 upgrade, most of my wires are pretty big. and just keep the cap for the future. and yeah, I'm also gonna ask another question lmao. Is Polyfill better than cotton? or is cotton pointless in your box? I have some cotton in my box cause my dad threw it in when we built the box.

hah, i actually moved the bass knob to right under my miles, because it's a lot easier to adjust while riding. and Yeah, I'm going to take measurements of my trunk again and see what can be done. i am sure I could build more and just make a weird box design but getting it into the trunk is hard. lol, that sealed box was hard to put in. the back is more narrow than the front (a lot of trunks are obviously) so that's the only problem with building the box, we have to make the depth a lot more than the width. flare ports or rectangular? or does it just depend. lastly, it wasn't my idea for the cap,i got it for christmas from my dad because he got a deal with it with the 2 jack hammers. i want a new alternator.

I've never heard about Skar before, what's their quality comparable to in terms of another company? I was thinking about Soundstream and just keeping a sealed box, just for the simple fact of having 500 more RMS per sub. But then again the whole point of the ported box was that I figured if I ported it to 33-35 hz it would generally hit every range better. I just want to have have balanced SQ throughout the low hertz, and not have 45 hz sound the loudest.

Thank you, thank you. I'm trying to come up with ideas to enhance it a good bit without spending too much.

Hey SMD members This is my first post, and my system's no where near amazing by any means but it is my first one. It consists of: Alpine CDE-122 Head Unit Polk DXi525 (5 1/4) x2 Polk DXi650 (6 1/2) x 2 Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1d MTX Jackhammer JH5512-4 x2 Streetwire Capacitor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAB8n0Op_u4 Here's it playing Big Sean - Ass Any suggestions, give me your opinion on the hifonics gain knob, i've got mixed emotions about it. I'm thinking about upping the subs to T6-12's, I'm wanting a ported box, but my trunk is too damn small. :[