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Dillan Turvold

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Posts posted by Dillan Turvold

  1. Got them a little hot once, for how long?

    i was running them on that setting for about a day, listened to dixie cup by krizz kaliko (long bass hits, almost the entire song) by the end of the song I could smell the coils, a little smoke coming out of em... i think part of one of them is a little toasted cuz i'm running them in parallel

  2. In Sound Quality, music should sound well balanced ...

    Nothing should overpower the other ... Components, subs, etc ...

    Not sure why you would want a (true) sound quality enclosure to be demanding on the higher frequiencies similar to a spl (ground pounder) build ...

    I can't afford to do the kind of SQ build I want to do, so instead of being able to have a strong low end and a strong midbass range, I'm trying to meet somewhere in the middle with the subs, though I might just revert back to sealed Idk yet..

    -edited cuz i'm tired atm

  3. Where should I tune to and where should I fire the port/s for SQ?

    2 12" kenwoods 400wrms, recommended 2 cu.ft. ported @ 34hz

    I'm looking for a smooth rolling design that will handle 34~50hz without too much peaking, just having a lot of trouble designing my own

    I've tried a few different box designs, with slot ports, pvc ports etc tuned at 30hz, 34hz, 40hz, can't seem to find a really good SQ box though, all the boxes were over 1.7 cu.ft., they all peaked somewhere either low or high, the one with pvc ports was 2 cu.ft. but the pvc ports are only 3".

    the box I have currently is the 2 cu.ft. 3" pvc ported @ 30hz, it really peaks at the low end and doesn't produce jack shit for high end bass, could I just get larger pvc pipe and tune higher to fix the problem? I have the pvc ports to the side and the subs facing the front in my trunk, here's a pic:

    15" H x 34" W x 18" D

    05203720.jpg

    Building a new box is not a problem ofc, but I wanted to check here to see what designs you might have for me b4 I do

  4. 15's response aren't as bad as some people make it sound, 1 15" will respond fast enough for ur rock music, it's mostly dependent upon the box you have it in..

    2 12's would be louder, i'd go with that option.. but 12's and 15's produce slightly different sound so it's up to you

  5. if I put my 6x9's in a box rather than free air, would it emphasize the mid-bass and bring it back? or would it make it sound shitty?

    http://www.sonicelec...KFC-6994PS.html

    i have a 98 malibu and i can tell you the acoustics of this car body are lousy , and i have noticed the same thing you have with the subs raising hell with the 6x9's in the rear deck , boxes are not a bad idea , but i would like to try baffles for the by9's

    I tried those plastic scorpion baffles off of sonicelectronix... they didn't do much, did stop a little bit of air movement but still vibrated like crazy. did you notice in the malibu with the subs facing the rear, it raises the pitch of the bass? if that's the right term for it idk

  6. what happened was i had my 6x9's mounted in stock position in the rear deck, over the trunk, and my kenwood subs would shake the 6x9's like crazy every time they hit, with vibration / air movement.. so they're kinda exhausted for midbass and bass, and also distort really easily now unless I have them set above 80hz on the deck

    thx for the feedback i'll be trying a box, i can let u know if u like

    BTW i see u have a 98 malibu, any problems with midbass drowning out in your car? my car is a '03 malibu, I've read a few places that the car design itself can remove midbass from music

  7. Well, I have the box built now, tried out some various music on it. The response seems to curve off slow from tuning up but not bad really. I don't have the 50hz wang any more for sure. Weird thing is it doesn't seem all that much louder in the slot port but it is hitting harder i'm sure. I had my hatch rattle under control before and now it's back with a vengeance. Plus I can play the lows with way more authority now. I do need to give this box some more test time to give a better review. But a first listen it seems better. Also it's kind of cool to have all that air coming out of the port. :P.

    that's about how my box experience went, I upgraded it from a slot ported dual chamber box @ 1.61 cu. ft. per chamber tuned @ 38hz.. the overall sound from the new box is a lot better, but it's the steep drop off from mid-bass that I just don't like, I'm wondering whether tuning higher would be enough, or if i should build a smaller box tuned the same.. :s let's see some pics of the actual box, the design looked pretty sweet

    check my build log, in my sig.

    looks good, i'll have to find a router to smooth the ports if i build another box

  8. Well, I have the box built now, tried out some various music on it. The response seems to curve off slow from tuning up but not bad really. I don't have the 50hz wang any more for sure. Weird thing is it doesn't seem all that much louder in the slot port but it is hitting harder i'm sure. I had my hatch rattle under control before and now it's back with a vengeance. Plus I can play the lows with way more authority now. I do need to give this box some more test time to give a better review. But a first listen it seems better. Also it's kind of cool to have all that air coming out of the port. :P.

    that's about how my box experience went, I upgraded it from a slot ported dual chamber box @ 1.61 cu. ft. per chamber tuned @ 38hz.. the overall sound from the new box is a lot better, but it's the steep drop off from mid-bass that I just don't like, I'm wondering whether tuning higher would be enough, or if i should build a smaller box tuned the same.. :s let's see some pics of the actual box, the design looked pretty sweet

  9. There's no need for separate chambers, your ports are too small, your stubbornness is unwarranted, and NOBODY likes having midbass fire at the back of their head who actually likes their music to sound good. Don't mix subs, amps, or box sizes/types.

    Welcome to smd

    Agree with this guy^^. Why are you set on two chambers? Why are you wanting to consider fiberglass? Do you have any experience with fiberglass?

    yes i have some experience with fiberglass, working on cars with my uncle.. i don't NEED 2 chambers but I do want that in case one sub blows, I still have the other to hold me off til i have more cash later. it's more of a financial issue, one of my subs blew once already and I'm glad i had two chambers because the 1 sub held me off til I could afford another.

    and I didn't know that about mid-bass speakers, thanks for letting me know

  10. without any new box dimensions, i cant assist with an L-port as the net ends up to small

    this will work with 4" plumbing pipe so it should help keep the cost down (will not work with aero as flare is to big to fit)

    it also basses off using 3/4mdf but i think in your pick you have smaller then that,

    3.7net @36hz

    you will need some bracing in the corners, just havent drawn it

    if you can come up with some better measurements ill draw something better for you

    3412.png

    appreciate the drawing, but i'm adamant on having 2 separate chambers.. it'd have to be within 15"h, 34"w, 22"d, 3/4" thickness

  11. I have some good news for you, i am currently building a slot port common chamber enclosure for the exact same subs and am using the same amp as you. I am tuning to 33hz, (bishes love 33hz) I have all the panels cut, and will begin assembly tomorrow. I don't have the same car as you but I will let you know how it does. So if it plays well for me maybe you can use these specs for your box.I decided to tune lower cause i am going to add mid-bass drivers anyway and my mids do 70hz and up really well.

    Also, at the risk of getting yelled at, those subs don't play well above 60hz in a sealed enclosure either.

    If the subs (kenwood) and the car (trunk car) are those on your build log then here is a suggestion:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 33 Hz

    Vb = 3.9 ft^3

    External Height = 17 in

    External Width = 34 in

    External Depth = 20.5 in

    Port Width = 3 3/4 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    2x Front = 15 1/8 x 15 1/2

    2x Front Internal = 13 5/8 x 15 1/2

    Back = 34 x 15 1/2

    Left & Right Sides: 19 x 15 1/2

    Top & Bottom = 34 x 20 1/2

    Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    2 x Front to Back = 17 1/8 x 15 1/2

    2 x Extension = 6 9/16 x 15 1/2

    kenwood.jpg

    Let me know any questions.

    that's great news man, definitely let me know how that goes, I have the resources to build the box, just kinda stretched for time

  12. I was thinkin abour makin a box w/ 1 12, 2 8" mids and having them all in seperate chambers ofc, 8" mids need boxes right?

    Without throwing your specs into Torres, I don't need to. Your port area is DEFINITELY too small. Start over with all wood and do an L-Port. Also, don't tune so low on those subs. 33-34 would still dig low enough for music and also hit your mid 40s just fine.

    Build a new box, that's the best advice I can give. Don't modify, don't tweek, start over fresh.

    I have plenty of mdf fiberboard.. so i might just do that. thanks

  13. I was thinkin abour makin a box w/ 1 12, 2 8" mids and having them all in seperate chambers ofc, 8" mids need boxes right?

    why do you want to do this?

    cuz it would look sexy w/ fiberglass? It'd basically be 3 boxes, 1 with 2 cu ft. of space and the other 2 would obviously be much smaller just attached to the sides of that box.. fiberglass it all together to make an appearance w/ the back seat down... :ph34r:

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