profundus-sanus
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Posts posted by profundus-sanus
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did you charge the d3100 before you put it in? voltage could be low because its charging up the battery.
something would have to be consuming a fair ammount of electricity for your voltage to just be lower like that. I doubt its a bad connection anywhere though.
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did you do that flush mount with a coutout bit?
always seen it done with a rabetting bit.
looks good!
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0db tone is a TON of headroom.
on audacity i've never seen anything above 70hz be above -5db
i've yet to venture into dubstep however... so who knows with that stuff.
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100w @ 4 ohm = 20v
what db test tone are you using?
i really like that amp! 1/0 reducers and crossover section especially.
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as stated with a 270xp you need AT LEAST 4 runs of 1/0(2+ and 2-) i would do 5 (3+ and 2-) plus those chassis grounds you already have.
imo power wire is the most often skimped on piece of a build...
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you can attempt to simulate cabin gain by inserting the linkiwitz transform.
i really only use bassbox pro for bandpasses though
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From my understanding the JBL built in gain setting device is operating somewhat similar to an clipping light on many amps, and is lighting up when the rail voltage is XX volts. Meaning that the light will light up no matter what once the rail voltage meets the desired voltage even if its clipped to death.
There has been a lot of videos done by various users of people with amps that have a built in clipping light lit up meaning the amp is clipping, but both DD-1 and even a Oscilloscope showing that the input and output of the amp is playing clean, even tho the clip light is on.
yea man. thats exactly what it looks like. clipping light is lighting up when the voltage reaches a certain point. Since the deck was obviously clippin and the light was not conastantly lit*. no way it could actually be measuring any form of distortion.
good stuff!
at least jbl is trying haha. keep people from just runnning the gain maxxed out... although a -15db track is kinda on the sketchy side
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yes!!!! can't wait for a dd1 I can actually use haha.the DD-1 HV will have a red boot. It is the high voltage DD-1 for higher power amps (over 20,000 watts)....that is coming soon too.oh damn, i wasn't sure what type of reception it would get but there should be a few that will love it. I will tell you what, the HV will be like $15.00 more but i will waive that fee if you buy one and make you the first to own one....just post a few pics and give an HONEST review. We are confident the review will be good so i say that with confidence.
should be ready in about a week.
thanks!
yea man. An aq20 @ 15.5v input toasted our regular dd1. You actually have it for repair right now. I knew I was right at the limit so i was watching the output voltage like a hawk. I loved the thing man, so it'll be great having one i wont have to worry about when i'm firing up these ns-1's at 18.5volts.
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the DD-1 HV will have a red boot. It is the high voltage DD-1 for higher power amps (over 20,000 watts)....that is coming soon too.
yes!!!! can't wait for a dd1 I can actually use haha.
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for the most part we run sundown.
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so, completely serious.
who's got info about these subs?
ssa sells em but looks like they still have specs for the old version.
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must quote more quotes.
need mad long posts... stat!
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question though, what's up with the leads? that doesn't look very healthy
Yeah looks like they'll be slapping around everywhere, stitching them to the spider yourself?
actually they wont do much slapping, if anything, to me they seem stretched out and could use some slack.
with 60mm of linear travel (30mm xmax) I think it could rip them and or cause slap. does it have the little cushions on the cone like some drivers do with leads like that?
other than that its a very good looking driver, the crinkle coat looks good and the blacked out plates. Looks like zcon with a bigger bumped bottom plate. What's a rough guesstimate on weight?
i will let the engineers at AA worry about if it is going to do damage or if it needs the little cushions. Oh, and sorry but the zcon looks like the Havoc not the other way around.
damn man, drinkin that haterade
its true, how is that hating? And whats your problem? Nevermind, don't answer that. I already know what it is....speaking of haterade. LOL
the man just asked a question.... he asked if there were pads on there.
and i just said i would let the engineers decide if they needed pads. I just got the f#ckin things, i dont have the answers yet. Are you done now? smh
i seriously don't see what your getting upset about.
the guy had a legit question about the woofers. Its kinda hard to tell if there are pads on the back of the cone or not.
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kyle you can see the pads in these pics.. kinda hard to distinguish from the cone but they're there.
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question though, what's up with the leads? that doesn't look very healthy
Yeah looks like they'll be slapping around everywhere, stitching them to the spider yourself?
actually they wont do much slapping, if anything, to me they seem stretched out and could use some slack.
with 60mm of linear travel (30mm xmax) I think it could rip them and or cause slap. does it have the little cushions on the cone like some drivers do with leads like that?
other than that its a very good looking driver, the crinkle coat looks good and the blacked out plates. Looks like zcon with a bigger bumped bottom plate. What's a rough guesstimate on weight?
i will let the engineers at AA worry about if it is going to do damage or if it needs the little cushions. Oh, and sorry but the zcon looks like the Havoc not the other way around.
damn man, drinkin that haterade
its true, how is that hating? And whats your problem? Nevermind, don't answer that. I already know what it is....speaking of haterade. LOL
the man just asked a question.... he asked if there were pads on there.
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question though, what's up with the leads? that doesn't look very healthy
Yeah looks like they'll be slapping around everywhere, stitching them to the spider yourself?
actually they wont do much slapping, if anything, to me they seem stretched out and could use some slack.
with 60mm of linear travel (30mm xmax) I think it could rip them and or cause slap. does it have the little cushions on the cone like some drivers do with leads like that?
other than that its a very good looking driver, the crinkle coat looks good and the blacked out plates. Looks like zcon with a bigger bumped bottom plate. What's a rough guesstimate on weight?
i will let the engineers at AA worry about if it is going to do damage or if it needs the little cushions. Oh, and sorry but the zcon looks like the Havoc not the other way around.
damn man, drinkin that haterade
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those leads do look crazy tight
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The alt grounds through the mounting bolt to the engine block..
So being a unibody car where the stock battery is in the trunk, would I benefit at all by running a run of 1/0 from a mounting bolt to the negitive battery terminal in trunk?
Technically considering where your battery is located, thats part of your big 3 that you failed to do it sounds like. Do you have a ground going from the engine block to the battery in the rear?
this.
a ground from the alternator mounting bolt to the battery is/should be part of your big 3.
no the alt should not have a ground stud on it.
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You think only 1500amps? I say 2000amps..I had the ddm4s very similiar to aq3500 and the pulled close to 1000 amps
1000 amps a piece?
sounds like clipping to me haha.
3500/ 12.8= 273 amps
273 / .7 = 390 (after a less than optimistic efficiency estimate)
390x 4 = 1500 amps
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its all a compromise. make sure you ahve a voltage gauge up front thats wired right before your amps.
its a safe bet that your amps will be 70-75% efficient at 1 ohm full bore.. so with 4 amps your looking at 1500 amps draw.
2 300 amp alts bring you down to 900 amps draw.. which you'll need at least 7-8 group 31 batts
you should have at least 2 + and 2- 1/0 runs per alt if your running 300a units.
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should have set the eq all at 0 before setting with the DD-1 and then only attenuate the different bands for adjustment, dont boost anything and you will be fine.
and i would say keep the HU flat and use the audiocontrol for the eq.
this is correct.
if you use a dd1 you cannot boost anything in the signal without clipping
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there should be 0 amperage going from the positive post to the negative post.
that would infer there was a short somewhere would be a HORRIBLE drain on your battery(ie dead in seconds)
as stated you need a dc clamp and put a load on the batt with the vehicle off so the alt isn't chargint.
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lulz... good shtuff
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1500 pre order
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18 SA12's on 3 NS-1's
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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yep