ShockStruck

Bolted, although I have heard that using self tap screwsis much better

Everything on the headunit is 0 and the internal amplifier is disabled Amp is grounded to the side of the trunk but since that isn't a very good ground, where do you suggest I ground it? The amp if currently mounted on the back of my rear seats so I'd like to ground it somewhere in that area

The amp is grounded to the trunk body, paint is sanded completely. I traded some guy on craigslist for it. The amp has never went into protection mode and appears cosmetically in good condition, although, the guy that sold it to me said that he blew a pair of 6x9's with it

My rears are 100 watts, amp puts out 90. Since it's running hot with 90 watt speakers, I didn't think it was a good idea to try and install 100 watt speakers the wattage of the speakers has nothing to do with how hot an amp will get. i can put a 100w amp to a 1000w sub and neither will get warm as long as everything is properly set up and you dont overdrive the amp and there is a strong ground and tight connections all around. That clears up some misunderstanding but the thing is, I've ran my amp at 0 gain and it was still running pretty hot (not warm, but hot), all of my connections are strong, and I'm above 12 volts on my voltage guage. I'm starting to believe that my amp might be damaged since I bought it used, could that be a possibility?

My rears are 100 watts, amp puts out 90. Since it's running hot with 90 watt speakers, I didn't think it was a good idea to try and install 100 watt speakersHeadunit settings are flat, gain is barely even touched(15/100)

I'm running Kicker 8 awg from front battery to amplifier(amp takes 8 awg) and 8 awg ground to bolt behind trunk lining. I might add that I am running only 1 battery that was just purchased (Duralast red top - 590 cold cranking amps) but since I'm not running any crazy wattage, I figured it should be okay

Ohm load is 2 ohms. I just have 1 set of speakers running off of 2 channels. It's wired channel 1 to left crossover, channel 2 to right crossover. My gain is barely even up at all (15/100) and it's still running hot

First off I'll list what's in my system. Headunit - Kenwood X896 Fronts - Infinity Kappa 680.9cs components - 270 watts peak/90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms Rears - Infinity Kappa 682.9cs coaxials - 300 watts peak/100 watts RMS @ 2 ohms Amp - Kicker zx350.4 (2011 model) - 90 watts RMS/channel @ 2 ohms, 45 watts/channel @ 4 ohms Rears are not yet installed mainly because I don't want to overdrive my amp Now here's my questions I've read around and from what I hear, Kicker amps almost always put out more power then they are rated at, but as of right now with just my fronts installed(components) my amp is running pretty hot and is distorting pretty bad, leading me to believe I need to upgrade my amp. Is my amplifier powerful enough to run my components? Also, a question regarding my components, they say they are 90 watts RMS. What exactly does that mean? Is that 90 watts per side or 90 watts total?

My factory wiring is unplugged in the front but in my rears I'm acually still running stock speakers ran from headunit power until I can get enough cash for some decent rears(thinking Infinity Kappa 5x7 coaxials or some Polk Dxi 5x7 coaxials), I guess running the rears from the internal amp caused distortion as I was also using the RCA outputs ran to my amplifier. Upon disabling the internal amp, the distortion in my components dissappeared. I wish you the best of luck with your replacement/ installation, and thank you everybody for all your suggestions/help, they for sure helped me narrow down my problem and fix it.

You're completely right, I noticed that my mid bass speakers didnt sound so clear, looked through my radio's settings and turned off the internal amp and set gain at 25%. It made a night and day difference, probably some of the cleanest sound I've heard from door speakers even with my tweets gone. Hopefully once I get a new set this doesn't happen again but without a DD-1 or O-scope there's not much I can do to prevent it. Where do you recommend I purchase a DD-1?

The amp is wired normal, left positive and negative to crossover input, right positive and negative to right crossover input. My amplifier has 2 separate gain controls, crossovers, and bass boosts labeled amp 1 and amp 2. The components are wired to amp 1. The amp puts out 90 watts RMS/channel @ 2 ohms, the speakers maximum power handling is 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms (These are 2 ohm speakers). http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31877_Kicker-ZX350.4-11ZX350.4.html - My amplifier

The maximum power for the components is 90 watts RMS, my amplifier puts out 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms/channel ( Infinity Kappa's are 2 ohms ), The Tweeter's frequency response is 3500 - 35000Hz http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13970_Infinity-Kappa-10.9T.html - Tweeters http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13971_Infinity-Kappa-680.9cs.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=10158821&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 Component Set that came with tweeters http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31877_Kicker-ZX350.4-11ZX350.4.html - amp

Nope, they were working fine last night and today on my way to work they wereren't making any sound at all but I sure as hell could smell them, perhaps my amp sent out a weird signal upon powering on? The warrenty should replace the whole set, I got them through Amazon Interesting. I had a pair of 3-way 4x10s.. the tweeters had passive crossovers on them and after awhile, they ended up exploding. There was. Capacitor guts everywhere! That's quite the experience haha, did you end up getting a replacement or did you just ditch them all together? Sounds to me like Infinity makes some low quality crossovers. I might just get a refund on these and get a differend brand. Do you have any suggestions on components I should get in place of my Infinity's? Preferably in the $150 price range

Nope, they were working fine last night and today on my way to work they wereren't making any sound at all but I sure as hell could smell them, perhaps my amp sent out a weird signal upon powering on? The warrenty should replace the whole set, I got them through Amazon

I figured that was probably it, I'm gonna warranty my speakers today. What should I do to prevent this from happening again when I get my replacement? I've heard of people using capacitors on the tweeters to protect them, what do you think of that idea?