ShockStruck
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Posts posted by ShockStruck
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trunk body? like the side of the trunk or the floor? that doesnt really appear to be a good ground to be honest.
class ab amps always run hot. as long as it doesn't go into protect i dont really see a problem with the temperature.
do you have the mid or high settings on the eq on your headunit up at all?
Everything on the headunit is 0 and the internal amplifier is disabled
Amp is grounded to the side of the trunk but since that isn't a very good ground, where do you suggest I ground it? The amp if currently mounted on the back of my rear seats so I'd like to ground it somewhere in that area
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where is the amp grounded to. does the metal where the wire lug is bolted to have all the paint sanded off so that its nice and shiny?
where did you get it used from?
The amp is grounded to the trunk body, paint is sanded completely.
I traded some guy on craigslist for it. The amp has never went into protection mode and appears cosmetically in good condition, although, the guy that sold it to me said that he blew a pair of 6x9's with it
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your gain is likely too high. or your treble and mid and bass settings on the headunit are up from 0. or a combination.
you wont overdrive the amp by putting 4 speakers on it. thats what its made for for gods sake.
90 watts means that each side is 90 watts. meaning (again) that both speakers (one tweeter and one midrange speaker) combined can handle 90 watts rms. so each speaker in itself is probably 45 watts, but theres no way to tell since that information isnt given so disregard this sentence.
My rears are 100 watts, amp puts out 90. Since it's running hot with 90 watt speakers, I didn't think it was a good idea to try and install 100 watt speakers
the wattage of the speakers has nothing to do with how hot an amp will get.
i can put a 100w amp to a 1000w sub and neither will get warm as long as everything is properly set up and you dont overdrive the amp and there is a strong ground and tight connections all around.
That clears up some misunderstanding but the thing is, I've ran my amp at 0 gain and it was still running pretty hot (not warm, but hot), all of my connections are strong, and I'm above 12 volts on my voltage guage. I'm starting to believe that my amp might be damaged since I bought it used, could that be a possibility?
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your gain is likely too high. or your treble and mid and bass settings on the headunit are up from 0. or a combination.
you wont overdrive the amp by putting 4 speakers on it. thats what its made for for gods sake.
90 watts means that each side is 90 watts. meaning (again) that both speakers (one tweeter and one midrange speaker) combined can handle 90 watts rms. so each speaker in itself is probably 45 watts, but theres no way to tell since that information isnt given so disregard this sentence.
My rears are 100 watts, amp puts out 90. Since it's running hot with 90 watt speakers, I didn't think it was a good idea to try and install 100 watt speakersHeadunit settings are flat, gain is barely even touched(15/100)
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where is the amp grounded to? are the power and ground wires of adequate size? meaning if the amp calls for 4 gauge, are you using 4 gauge and not 8?
I'm running Kicker 8 awg from front battery to amplifier(amp takes 8 awg) and 8 awg ground to bolt behind trunk lining. I might add that I am running only 1 battery that was just purchased (Duralast red top - 590 cold cranking amps) but since I'm not running any crazy wattage, I figured it should be okay
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dude needs to turn the gain down. if you tune it right it wont get so hot. also check your ohm load. is it just 1 set of speakers?
Ohm load is 2 ohms. I just have 1 set of speakers running off of 2 channels. It's wired channel 1 to left crossover, channel 2 to right crossover. My gain is barely even up at all (15/100) and it's still running hot
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First off I'll list what's in my system.
Headunit - Kenwood X896
Fronts - Infinity Kappa 680.9cs components - 270 watts peak/90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
Rears - Infinity Kappa 682.9cs coaxials - 300 watts peak/100 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
Amp - Kicker zx350.4 (2011 model) - 90 watts RMS/channel @ 2 ohms, 45 watts/channel @ 4 ohms
Rears are not yet installed mainly because I don't want to overdrive my amp
Now here's my questions
I've read around and from what I hear, Kicker amps almost always put out more power then they are rated at, but as of right now with just my fronts installed(components) my amp is running pretty hot and is distorting pretty bad, leading me to believe I need to upgrade my amp. Is my amplifier powerful enough to run my components? Also, a question regarding my components, they say they are 90 watts RMS. What exactly does that mean? Is that 90 watts per side or 90 watts total?
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Ha beat me to the punch, as i was reading this I was wondering if by normal you meant amp output to speaker input + speaker output from deck(stock wires) also still attatched...
The way I use mine as I have the same amp(ZX350.4) is just wires from amp to speakers and stock wiring unplugged so that extra 35w from deck isn't being sent to the speakers also lol.. I say this because i also blew a pair of Kappa 6x9's same model well except for size but also 2ohm it sounded nice until one just went out haha. And mine are in for repair/exchange now..
Anyways good thing you figures it out before your other ones got in and the same happened again..
My factory wiring is unplugged in the front but in my rears I'm acually still running stock speakers ran from headunit power until I can get enough cash for some decent rears(thinking Infinity Kappa 5x7 coaxials or some Polk Dxi 5x7 coaxials), I guess running the rears from the internal amp caused distortion as I was also using the RCA outputs ran to my amplifier. Upon disabling the internal amp, the distortion in my components dissappeared. I wish you the best of luck with your replacement/ installation, and thank you everybody for all your suggestions/help, they for sure helped me narrow down my problem and fix it.
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Its user error speakers voice coil even tweets don't just burn up and smell for no resone to much power clipping or to much distortion you are guilty of one of those
I have kappa componets in my old school ride over 4 years no blown tweets and I play em LOUD
You're completely right, I noticed that my mid bass speakers didnt sound so clear, looked through my radio's settings and turned off the internal amp and set gain at 25%. It made a night and day difference, probably some of the cleanest sound I've heard from door speakers even with my tweets gone. Hopefully once I get a new set this doesn't happen again but without a DD-1 or O-scope there's not much I can do to prevent it. Where do you recommend I purchase a DD-1?
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Did you have the amp bridged running to one set of mids, or just hooked up normal?
The amp is wired normal, left positive and negative to crossover input, right positive and negative to right crossover input. My amplifier has 2 separate gain controls, crossovers, and bass boosts labeled amp 1 and amp 2. The components are wired to amp 1. The amp puts out 90 watts RMS/channel @ 2 ohms, the speakers maximum power handling is 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms (These are 2 ohm speakers).
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31877_Kicker-ZX350.4-11ZX350.4.html - My amplifier
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What did the specs say on the component set for maximum power ??
Did the specs say (Even with the passive corssover) what the minimum frequency response was for the tweeters ??
The maximum power for the components is 90 watts RMS, my amplifier puts out 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohms/channel ( Infinity Kappa's are 2 ohms ), The Tweeter's frequency response is 3500 - 35000Hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13970_Infinity-Kappa-10.9T.html - Tweeters
Component Set that came with tweeters
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31877_Kicker-ZX350.4-11ZX350.4.html - amp
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You didn't hear when they blew out? Is warranty gonna cover the whole set or just the tweeters?
Nope, they were working fine last night and today on my way to work they wereren't making any sound at all but I sure as hell could smell them, perhaps my amp sent out a weird signal upon powering on? The warrenty should replace the whole set, I got them through Amazon
Interesting. I had a pair of 3-way 4x10s.. the tweeters had passive crossovers on them and after awhile, they ended up exploding. There was. Capacitor guts everywhere!
That's quite the experience haha, did you end up getting a replacement or did you just ditch them all together? Sounds to me like Infinity makes some low quality crossovers. I might just get a refund on these and get a differend brand. Do you have any suggestions on components I should get in place of my Infinity's? Preferably in the $150 price range
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You didn't hear when they blew out? Is warranty gonna cover the whole set or just the tweeters?
Nope, they were working fine last night and today on my way to work they wereren't making any sound at all but I sure as hell could smell them, perhaps my amp sent out a weird signal upon powering on? The warrenty should replace the whole set, I got them through Amazon
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Bad xover network on the tweets??
I figured that was probably it, I'm gonna warranty my speakers today. What should I do to prevent this from happening again when I get my replacement? I've heard of people using capacitors on the tweeters to protect them, what do you think of that idea?
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I just installed some Infinity Kappa 5x7 Components powered by my Kicker zx350.4, and after 1 day of having them installed, I noticed thhe smell of burnt voice coils throughout my car. Turns out, both of my tweeters are completely cooked and aren't producing any sound, but the mid woofers are completely fine and not distorted. I ran the tweeters and the mid woofer through the included crossovers, with my amp's gain set to zero, bass boost at 0, and the HPF set to 100hz. My headunit is a brand new Kenwood x896 that I just installed a few days prior. Anybody have any ideas on what could possibly be causing my tweeters to blow?
Have a few questions regarding my setup
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Bolted, although I have heard that using self tap screwsis much better