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Tim Lam

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Posts posted by Tim Lam

  1. omg where do these people come from? completely wrong.

    School......

    Tim, I love your quote about batteries charging themselves.

    Way to pull one out of your ass.

    how is that out of my ass?

    its fact buddy.

    hook up two batteries with different voltages and its fucking common sense.

    a battery(for example) at 6V and a battery at 10V, the 10V battery would obviously lose voltage but in turn that voltage would raise the 6V battery.

    maybe that concept was over your head, but please don't criticize if you aren't sure.

    I wouldn't talk shit to a mod, especially the mod you're talking shit to. Don't even try to go back now and say you're not, because your tone says otherwise. N8 wouldn't have posted if he didn't have a little insight to share.

    poorfish88 isn't a mod?

  2. omg where do these people come from? completely wrong.

    School......

    Tim, I love your quote about batteries charging themselves.

    Way to pull one out of your ass.

    how is that out of my ass?

    its fact buddy.

    hook up two batteries with different voltages and its fucking common sense.

    a battery(for example) at 6V and a battery at 10V, the 10V battery would obviously lose voltage but in turn that voltage would raise the 6V battery.

    maybe that concept was over your head, but please don't criticize if you aren't sure.

  3. Im now lost, but I'm interested in this thread, since I'm trying to get my electrical squared away. How do you figure out how much you really draw? How do you then figure out what you need? Just add up output of your alt plus Ah from your batteries?

    well the equation for Watts is AmpsxVolts

    so if you have a 3500watt system and your car idles at 14V, you'll need 250amps which comes from the alternator.

    but you also have to figure in the draws from the stock electricals of the car itself.

    the actual draw of the amp is something you have to take a multimeter to, these people on here are just guessing how efficient that amp is at .5 ohms

    i knew P=VI

    I was trying to figure out what the amps are really drawing....to figure out efficiency.

    well you cant really know how efficient amps are unless you clamp them.

  4. I think actually adding a second battery would put less stress on the alt, because the first battery isnt getting blasted ever 2 secs. You have more reserve capacity allowing the alternator to catch up during times whenbass isnt sucking so much juice.

    haha seeing you everywhere bassface!

    but put in simple terms, this is accurate.

    think of it like this, the alternator isn't charging 2 batteries. that would be hooking up both batteries directly to the alternator.

    not so, so the draw from the first battery simple charges the second one. and with left over voltage in the second battery returning to charge the first one(they do this to gain the same voltage) the first battery is also getting charged from the alternator plus the second battery. it's almost like a bigger battery, but more complicated.

    so for the last time, (especially with these audio batteries that have quick discharge and recharge rates) they do NOT add any more stress to your alternator.

  5. my only thing is if im adding another batt, should i worry about over working my alt, i mean it already is, and its like if i add a batt idk if it would help so it wont have to draw as much streight from the alt, but on the other hand will it be better for the alt to 2 charge 2 batts instead of trying to keep up with just one? and im running 2 mrp-m500 alpines on 2 15" k comps

    interesting, i have an Alpine MRP-M1000 and it's given me some problems too haha. did a demo about 15 mins long and it zapped my battery(getting a new one anyways: Kinetik Hc1800).

    well you see the thing is, the only thing that would put more stress on your alternator is adding a more powerful system to your existing electrical system. when you begin to add more batteries, voltage begins to flow through them. almost like them charging themselves. so adding a second battery(that is hooked up to your wet cell) wouldn't be stressing your alternator. if anything taking a load of stress off of it.

    so simply put, get a second battery. it wont stress your alternator anymore, but actually relieve it of stress and it will more than likely cure your voltage drops.

    my only thing is if im adding another batt, should i worry about over working my alt, i mean it already is, and its like if i add a batt idk if it would help so it wont have to draw as much streight from the alt, but on the other hand will it be better for the alt to 2 charge 2 batts instead of trying to keep up with just one? and im running 2 mrp-m500 alpines on 2 15" k comps

    interesting, i have an Alpine MRP-M1000 and it's given me some problems too haha. did a demo about 15 mins long and it zapped my battery(getting a new one anyways: Kinetik Hc1800).

    well you see the thing is, the only thing that would put more stress on your alternator is adding a more powerful system to your existing electrical system. when you begin to add more batteries, voltage begins to flow through them. almost like them charging themselves. so adding a second battery(that is hooked up to your wet cell) wouldn't be stressing your alternator. if anything taking a load of stress off of it.

    so simply put, get a second battery. it wont stress your alternator anymore, but actually relieve it of stress and it will more than likely cure your voltage drops.

    Adding batteries always puts extra stress on the alt. It's more batteries it has to charge!

    umm no.

    "Adding multiple Kinetik Power Cells to a vehicle will not add extra load on your alternator or lower you voltage in your car like adding ‘wet cell’ batteries will. Due to the low ESR and high voltage of Kinetik Power Cells, your voltage will actually increase. Kinetik Power Cells also charge more efficiently and quickly than a standard ‘wet cell’ battery reducing the stress on your alternator." direct quote from Kinetik

  6. fuck man cant you even read,

    he's alrady posted them, and the car there going in

    you're real cool.

    Gimme demensions of the trunk, i'll design you one:].

    you just stated a lot of assumptions there just saying. we dont even know the demensions of the space hes putting it in to

    OP posts his dimensions in another thread: 35"w x 11"h x 24"L.

    thanks mang.

  7. the doesnt have to be on the same side as the subs...

    For some that knows alot you design one

    1st a 6" side ported box 35"w in max width of 35" is a sealed box with a hole in the side

    So now the box need to be 29"w to allow fo port

    So now that, sorted, you'll need more deepth then 19" because you shortened the width by 6"

    2nd port length will be somewhere in the 28" length mark so you'll need to bend port so now yourv taken up 12" in the back, putting the port somewhere with 3-5" of sub with the opening facing the rear, and you'll have unloading issues with the port facing 1 or 2 subs

    3rd to stop unloading you'll need to put 2x bends to make it 180deg, and then you lose the efficiency of an aero, witch is what allows you to use a smaller ratio

    Gimme demensions of the trunk, i'll design you one:].

    you just stated a lot of assumptions there just saying. we dont even know the demensions of the space hes putting it in to

  8. yes i have done the big 3. I have a durelast gold batt laying around (dont ask me why) but i do, would it be okay to run that with the yellow top

    that is fine to use, but like stated before, if it has those caps you can pop off to check the fluids inside, DON'T.

    that is Sulfuric acid which can reach 1 on the pH scale. pretty much it will melt a hole through the bottom of your car. yikes.

    so i would just go ahead and get that kinetik bro. those things are sealed shut, no worries about spills or fumes.

    the hc600 is pretty affordable too.

  9. awesome thanks, and should i run in parallel, with a relay, isolator or what.

    well i actually learned this yesterday haha.

    no need for an isolator unless you're going to be playing with the car off(haha and who actually does that?)

    relay? theres nothing needed to be used like a switch.

    SOLUTION: run preferably 0awg wire from the battery 1(under the hood) negative to battery 2(in the trunk) negative.

    than run another 0awg wire from the battery 1 positive to the battery 2 positive. BUTTTT!!

    make sure you have 2 fuses in this line. one by the first battery and one by the 2nd battery

    so something like this

    [Optima Yellow top]--[300amp fuse]--------------------------------------------[300amp fuse]---[Kinetik hc600]

  10. my only thing is if im adding another batt, should i worry about over working my alt, i mean it already is, and its like if i add a batt idk if it would help so it wont have to draw as much streight from the alt, but on the other hand will it be better for the alt to 2 charge 2 batts instead of trying to keep up with just one? and im running 2 mrp-m500 alpines on 2 15" k comps

    interesting, i have an Alpine MRP-M1000 and it's given me some problems too haha. did a demo about 15 mins long and it zapped my battery(getting a new one anyways: Kinetik Hc1800).

    well you see the thing is, the only thing that would put more stress on your alternator is adding a more powerful system to your existing electrical system. when you begin to add more batteries, voltage begins to flow through them. almost like them charging themselves. so adding a second battery(that is hooked up to your wet cell) wouldn't be stressing your alternator. if anything taking a load of stress off of it.

    so simply put, get a second battery. it wont stress your alternator anymore, but actually relieve it of stress and it will more than likely cure your voltage drops.

  11. i dont know too much about orion amps.

    but i've seen they're subs and they're pretty beast.

    like the Orion HCCA122! monsters of a sub.

    but can't let that be the only indicator of it being a good sub.

    because a company can make a good product doesnt mean all of them are good.

    (i.e. Hifonics=decent amps, but their subs are shit)

  12. You can't fit a 6" aero in that box

    9.25+(3x8.5)=34.75 +0.25" clearance for 1 sub and side wall =35"

    and that with every sub touching each other

    And you'll get to much flex like that

    And with 10.5 high you can't fit 2x 4" ontop of each other to enable clearance between aero and subs

    the doesnt have to be on the same side as the subs...

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