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Kade

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About Kade

  • Birthday 08/23/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SouthWest Louisiana
  • Interests
    Guitars, music, electricity, computers, video gaming.

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  1. Cool. Think you can draw me up one of those fancy blueprints for a 3sub ported box this time? 40in wide x 25in deep x 17in tall. Whatever design you think is best.
  2. Right, not only the sub but the port and all the wood and any other thing that sometimes is put in there like bracing. Well you will have less power handling and an impedance mess since you cant wire 3 D2 subs to 2 ohm. Alright I understand that. My amp is 1ohm stable. Adding a 3rd D2 sub drops my load down to 1.33ohms instead of 2ohm that I'm running now. I should be safe, right?
  3. Measured everything out again. That 4 sub box is going to take up any and all of my trunk space. I won't have room for my amp rack I've planned out =( I can't figure out how to upload pics, but the 02 Tribute hatch is way larger than an 07 Escape, Ken. From the bottom of the seat. 40x33x18...If I were to recline the seats, 40x25x18. I didn't think about that. So, when you build a box, you have to take in account the space a physical speaker takes up in a box? Also, Since the box you first designed is too big for what I'm trying to do in my car, what would I lose if I went to 3 subs in a ported box opposed to 4?
  4. *was trying to upload a pic....didn't work...ignore this post*
  5. Thanks for the insight. In a ported design, Rockford recommends 1.40 cubic feet per driver, which amounts to 5.6ft^3 instead of Joe's listed 5.4ft^3. I don't know if I'm missing any measurements or he shrunk the box on account of tuning(?) I'll check them again, but I do believe I measured 25in from the hatchback to the top of the back seat reclined. I'll double check tomorrow though.
  6. It's a myth that a sealed box produces "quicker" or "tighter" bass. A properly designed and built ported box will do just fine with any music and will give you more output than a sealed box can give you. Not bashing Joe X's design, but would the ported box he designed fall in your category of "properly designed"? Also, by properly built, you're talking about build quality(sturdy, solid, not falling apart easily etc.)? you asked this question at the caraudio.com forum didn't you? lol i said that because there was a time on there years ago that no one on the forum was accepted by others unless you ran a sealed box. If you had a ported your system was shit and everyone hated on you until you just quite visiting. I 1000000000000000000000000000000% agree with what sprkn ranger said, A sealed box usually ends with disopointment. you have 4 10s because you want it to slam, please do not restrict the capabilities of what you have by putting them in a sealed box. Never been to that forum or any other forum lol. Got my first system from a local shop by kind of guessing what I wanted based on my knowledge of instrument amplifiers and speakers. My purchase came out very well and I'm pleased with the sound of my current system. I just wanted to expand while trying some new things. This forum seems to have a high reputation, so here I am =) That last sentence makes a lot of sense
  7. Sweet! thanks man. Now, how would this design look if I wanted it sealed? From what I've been reading, a sealed box is more my tastes because there's less of a delay in quick drum beats as opposed to a ported box. Is this true?
  8. 2002 Mazda tribute. 40in wide, 25in deep, 17in tall. I have some other ideas for an amp rack to be flush with my back seats so that my amps, battery and wires are hidden unless I fold my seats down. Then, putting a 3-way component on top of the amp rack in an isolated box that is also flush with the headrest at 17in. tall. So, I'd like to take about 8in off the depth of my hatchback to be able to fit that rack in. I listen to mostly metal and use my subs primarily for the bass drops. I like everything else up in my door speakers. I do sometimes like to show off though, which is why I want to get more subs. Feel like I'm working my 10s too hard. I want to get more volume without straining my speakers or getting distortion. Don't have the money to just replace a sub at any time.
  9. I want to expand on my system and would like to try a custom ported box when I decide to purchase everything. I'm going to be running 4 RF P3D210s (2010 model;400w RMS 800w peak) on 2 Hifonics Brutus 1200w amps. Could someone help me out with designing a box and give me pros and cons of a ported vs sealed box? Never built a box. Always bought them from shops.
  10. anyone have 1 or 2 they'd like to sell looking for something a little used and below eBay price.
  11. The Hifonics speakers I'm running right now sound 'ok'. I must admit I was disappointed in them after using their amps(which I've had good luck with). Yesterday, I crossed a wire somewhere and blew my amp for the highs, so I didn't really have time to tweak my EQ with it. Waiting for that to be shipped and repaired. I do have a 3rd unused 2channel amp. Think I should add 2 midbass speakers with it? Under the driver and passenger seat maybe? Trying to avoid fiberglass kick panels. Well, here's what I have so far... sub: 50hz and below mids: 75-3500hz tweeters: 3500hz-16000hz if I add the mid bass, I move my mid to a highpass filter and EQ it at 200hz+ and throw the midbass on a separate amp with the EQ at 80-200hz? Would I have to have a crossover between my mids and highs or can I just use the EQ?
  12. I don't want it louder. I want it more defined. Like speakers handling a specific range of frequencies.
  13. I just realized that I'm misusing SQ. I'm thinking about definition of individual instruments rather than how good they sound.
  14. I think that's what I was trying to ask, Chris Davis. Is it possible to add on a different driver in my current component set and will that improve my sound quality(with using a crossover of course)?
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