revoracing247
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Posts posted by revoracing247
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We have complete box designs posted up for them.
yeah i know, but i was more looking for the parameters to help me design a transmission line box and for my own box designs.
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honestly sat through the whole thing while reading it on the edge of my seat waiting for the huge screw up to happen when they never sent you the product or never refunded you and how they are a horrible company and bla bla bla....
happy to say i finished reading and was shocked that nothing was wrong! i guess most the time people only go out of their way to post things if it's negative or bad about someone/some company and so that's what i was expecting. especially with all the "alt drama" going on right now on this forum i was just waiting for negative comments and funny whitty slander to come pouring out. why have i gotten so accustomed to all this negativity and "heated" comments that i'm shocked when it's only happy positive stuff?
i need to change how i look at things, and so i im glad to say this: Thank you for posting this. it makes me happy to see you had a good experience with sonic. so much so that you spent time to express how much you enjoyed doing business with them. honestly the best way for a business to be advertised is from the mouth of happy customers like you and so in turn you're helping our hobby grow. and thanks for making me see this, i needed it.
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sd is .18
is that in m^2? and thanks i really need this for designing the t-line.
I don't know if you got the info you needed, but this is from the pre-order thread from back in March:
The X series is our 1250 RMS rated line -- they feature a 3" diameter CCAW round wire coil and our new frame, spider, surround, and cone platform. Linear x-max is around ~30mm one-way by 70% BL with a total mechanical clearance of 50mm in the motor.
and thanks for finding this. they should just put these parameters on their site.
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So for your average system between 3-5 k wrms, you only need to have ~50% coverage on doors?
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thats like 100% coverage though. isn't it a little much?
Depends on the goal and the system. For a really clean front stage in a setup with a lot of power, you need the doors to be completely dead. For a small upgrade with a small sub... 25% works. Not great, mind you... but it works.
well why not do 24-50% coverage and then use better materials for what you're trying to achieve. like putting MLV and CCF layers in-between the door skin and inner (closer to the inside of the car) door panel. you save a ton of $$ on materials and get the same results. rather then trying to use CLD as a way to add mass to the panel and lower it's resonances, which is a really expensive material to do so with.
what did he try to achieve must of missed it because if it was to deaden the resonance of the door he used the material for what he was trying to achieve... the other 2 are for airborne noise
This gets back to the amplitude/decay versus resonant frequency question. Not only shouldn't we use vibration damper as a barrier, we shouldn't try to use it to add mass to drop the panel's resonant frequency below the audible range. This has been argued for years as justification for using roofing materials. The problem is that you really can't add enough mass to accomplish that frequency shift. You need to quadruple mass for every octave dropped. You'd end up with door panels that weighed hundreds of pounds.From what i understand, CLD is for stopping flexing and turning it into heat so the panel doesn't produce it's resonance frequency. not necessarily to lower it's resonance frequency. and the other two are for air born noise, but also to turn the door into an infinite baffle for the speaker. (just like he did using CLD tiles.) but i can see how you'd want a bit more coverage for very high powered applications. i guess i have a bit of a different view on deadening
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thats like 100% coverage though. isn't it a little much?
Depends on the goal and the system. For a really clean front stage in a setup with a lot of power, you need the doors to be completely dead. For a small upgrade with a small sub... 25% works. Not great, mind you... but it works.
well why not do 24-50% coverage and then use better materials for what you're trying to achieve. like putting MLV and CCF layers in-between the door skin and inner (closer to the inside of the car) door panel. you save a ton of $$ on materials and get the same results. rather then trying to use CLD as a way to add mass to the panel and lower it's resonances, which is a really expensive material to do so with.
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thats like 100% coverage though. isn't it a little much?
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I thought the xmax was 30mm?
Do you really need Sd for the model? Approximate it. Should be in the neighborhood of 153sq in.
Displacement... .25 should be close enough. Do you really need it down to the hundreth? Lol.
sd i don't need right now but it'll be important when i start designing my t-line. and i just thought because of the huge surrounds and stuff it might be a little different then most other subs.
and for the displacement i wasn't sure. i tried this once calculator where i gave it the motor dimensions and stuff and it calculated like .45
so i wasn't sure what to trust. -
bump for info.
im really just looking for sub displacement.
would anyone know a close approximation maybe?
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Well that is just plain weird. Did your buddy give Ryan constraints as far as max depth, height, or width?
If limiting factors were present, he may have just done the best he could with what he had to work with. There is another possibility that the sub is so NEW and no specs were available at the time he designed the box. I only noticed JUST today, that Sundown has a screenshot of T/S specs. They weren't on the website until recently, like within the last few days-I check often.
So me personally, I'd up the port area another 20" and see what that does. I'd double baffle for sure. I would ditch the idea of doing 45s, they are not needed.
I've had the specs since around July.
can you tell me the Xmax, Sd, and woofer displacement then?
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hey sundown,
i was in the process of trying to design a box for my X15 and i ran into a couple of road blocks. btw thanks a ton for posting the T/S parameters for the X series subs on your site recently it's really nice to have all those in one place now.
not trying to be a dick but i think there's a couple missing though (at least i think, i could be blind) that are making it really hard to finish my design
could you post the,
Woofer Displacement
Xmax
Sd
if those were there i'd be awesome.
thanks,
RevoRacing
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i know i've told ya alot of this in our messages but i thought i might as well recap some of it here.
im running almost 70" of port almost exactly and personally in my situation i feel like i need even more then that lol but 70 is a comfortable place to start.
here's 70" and now you can see why i've been working on deadening my truck over the last week or 2 lol
that box is like 3.7^3ft~ tuned @27hz with 70^2in of port on around 2200w rms. it really shines like 38hz and below and is just nasty at like 28-25hz.
and sorry i kind of skimmed over some of what cleanSierra said so sorry if you guys have already figured out the tuning but ive heard not to tune them above 35Hz.
soooo yeah the box i'd personally suggest would be 30hz, 3-3.75^ft and around 70^2in of port. but you might wanna stay at 32hz.
i feel like i'm forgetting something lol
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so i don't mean to question a product that i know you guys have put a ton of hard work into, but i was just thinking about this while watching the video.
Tony. how hard would it be to make it so you could plug it into your computer, do a sweep in your car and see how things plot out in each setting?
just kept thinking how useful it'd be to be able to see the impedance curve through the frequency range, or see the efficiency % through the frequencies.
then you wouldn't be sitting there going...uhhh i think i saw around X efficiency at about Y Hz.
then you could sit there, have the door open, see how your (power efficiency, impedance, ect, choose your poison) is doing, then close the door do another sweep and compare the two graphs.
it'd make this already amazing tool just that much more effective and awesome.
just a thought. love what you guys do!
amazing work. -
oh also forgot to add, if your braces have started to separate from the roof and that's causing the rattling, the PL Premium is perfect for reattaching it.
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PL Premium! im in the process of trying to stop roof flex in my truck.
deadener for sure and if you wanna go extreme us the PL Premium to put in more braces or something!
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that's sweet! that's gonna be so useful in the garage!
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it's your electrical and also your box could be bottle necking it. whats the port area on for the box? i have 70sqin for my x15 and im planning on building a new one with more port here soon.
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do 25% coverage though with the CLD though. anything else and you're just try using it as a barrier which CLD is a really poor barrier and it's also an expensive.
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i know this is probably really belated but i have my x-15 tuned to 27 and love it. toying with the idea of different tunings at the moment.
right now it can easily play 20hz and lower and still do pretty well in the high 30's
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did the stiffer spiders really only bring the fs of them up like 2hz? just want to make sure
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cool to see im not the only one who tries to read those research papers on that site and use horn resp.
for the compression chamber did you find the response you got from your model in horn resp to closely resemble how it preformed in real life?
i am just worried about designing one with a compression chamber in horn resp and then spend all the materials to find out it's nothing like i predicted.
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DAfuq did i just watch?
a lot of really useful info on the subs that gets me even more stoked for them.
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i love HexiBase and im glad he finally got this video out! i've been checking his channel like every day for the last 2 weeks lol can't wait for these things to come out!
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X-10/12/15 are due in Charlotte around July 9th -- then to us shortly after.
X-18s are behind that about two weeks.
Z v.4 will take until roughly end of July based on the coil hold up.
after a lot of thought, i think im set on going with an X15 for my system. can't wait to have these get in so i can order one!
though in choosing my 15, t/s parameters have been a big factor. so quick question.
is the stiffer spider in the production model going to effect the QMS or QTS of the sub compared to the specs you guys posted for the pre-sale?
amazing work.
Sundown X and Z v.4 Sound Difference : Visualized
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
great info! i remember when you were explaining this before and it's actually one of the reasons i chose the x15 for my rebuild and i don't regret it one bit!