sully
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Posts posted by sully
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That is all.
-Drew
I like the interior, very contemporary. Looks like you have taken the minimalistic approach removing all the seats and carpeting.
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so what was it? Kinda got me wondering if strapping amps that are not designed to be strapped is a good idea. I'd like to try it so see if i get any more output but i don't work for a MTX dealer anymore so i would have to pay way too much to replace any of my equipment if it goes up in smoke.
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Got it thanks, i see SonicElectronics sells them for $99
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can someone tell me where to get a MaxxLink online or atleast some detailed info on the product. THANKS
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I've got two 10's in my daily ride that i am very happy with, the right box is everything
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Can you replace the 100a alternator with another mechman 250? with the two of them you will be fine also you can have him ship them to you (or tell you how) to bump the voltage to 15.3v output instead of 14.x. hit him up on a PM and he will get you headed in the right direction.
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sweet install in a sick ride
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prob going to end up being around 40wx16hx22d depending on the port size to get around 6cuft after displacement using .75 mdf. add more if you put excessive bracing inside the box. sub up port back to make it work.
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if you don't have the right switches you will need to diode isolate the wires, if you have opened a 10 switch box before you would have noticed that the individual wheel switches have one output on the top and bottom of the switch, the side to side have two, the pancake has four. these switches already have the diodes built in so you will not need to isolate each wire. if you don't have access to these switches and are using a basic switch then if you don't isolate the wires it will not function properly.
B slaps yo mama, i have bagged about 20 vehicles and helped with many more, go ahead and wire one without isolating the wires and tell me how that goes for you, if it is the switch or a diode you achieve the same thing but you have to do it or it won't work.
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check this out, you can just remove the side to side, seesaw and pancake switches but it will get you headed in the right direction.
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you will wire the 4 corners normally then for the front/back you have to have diodes in the wires or the switches have to have two independent outputs. If you don't use the right switch or diode isolate the wires you will have front back only... IE: if you hit the front left up then it will also activate the front up switch and the whole front of the vehicle will lift.
the back of the switch for the front/back switches will have two outputs on the top and two on the bottom with one input in the middle possition. one of the top leads will go to the left up valve and the other will go to the right up valve. The bottom ones will go to the front left and right dump valves. Kinda get where i am going. I will try to find a diagram cause it is hard to explain without pictures.
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If they are W3's not the W3V2's then thew will be very happy with about 300 watts each, unfortunately they love ported boxes and don't do too well in sealed. If you have the ability to build a box for them they will be plenty loud enough in your truck. JL even has specs on their website if you don't know how to design the box yourself, it does pretty well for a simple slot port box.
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My truck rides better than stock on bags, put the bags on the bars and get some good shocks out back like the rancho 9000's and stick to Slam specialties bags FTW
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it's not dirty, he blurred it so you couldn't see into the shop/garage
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It's hard to do both, I have a Hayabusa drag bike i play with on the weekends. the 1/4 mile track is so far away i just run the 1/8th, on nitrous it runs in the 4.70's off the juice it is 5.10's. I wouldn't trade my bike for anything, i know racing is very expensive (even more so with cars) but the rush is worth every penny you will spend. Fuel, Nitrous and tires alone i can spend $400 in a weekend and that doesn't even cover new clutch fibers, wear and tear on the engine and heaven forbid the blown engine or tranny (I know that one is coming soon). If audio has to take a back seat then so be it, you will find time and money here and there to keep the DB monster down.
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That durango has coil springs all the way around if i remember right. measure your spring pockets and see how big a bag you can fit (hopefully at least a 7") and get bags/cups for the whole truck. they prob don't make a full bolt on kit but you can fab something.
try air rid technologies, they have bolt on kits for alot of applications but they rarely lay all the way out since there is minimal cutting involved.
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Awesome truck, and if i was home that shop is right down the street. I would have never known that they could build a truck like that.
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i think you are getting a little ahead of yourself. If you haven't even figured out how to build the box yet the last question you should have is port tuning.
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I've never had problems with an upgraded alt causing fuses to blow and the ECM will not be effected unless you bump your voltage over 18v.
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Anyone think he might take a vacation? I have always gotten a response withing hours of emailing him so if he is in the office you will be getting a call shortly.
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Are they still using the AC meter? I used to be a manager for CarToys in Dallas area and the meter they had was an old AC that collected dust in the bay.
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www.suicidedoors.com specializes in S10's, not the cheapest but a great company to buy from.
Mechman 300a Alt Install *instant 0.7db*
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
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MechMan alts ftw