sully
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Posts posted by sully
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Good luck today and post up some #'s
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Nice number!
I like the box design, get sick of seeing the same old slot port you've come up with something unique
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boats are very hard to get alot of bass out of simply because they are wide open (unlike a car or SUV)
Try to see if he will let you put it in the cuddy cabin portion of the boat, it will get louder and since it is infront of you instead of behind you it will sound louder while you are driving around the lake. Also it is away from the engine and all the excess noise it makes. I know my 23' formula interceptor's engine bay was deadened and if the VIP's engine bay is like that you are loosing alot of your output because it is sealed in there.
One 12 on a boat is not going to impress most people it is more for low end fill and you need to explain to him that the best way to get louder will be a second (or 9 more subs)
One more thing, MTX woofers love ported boxes try one and see if he likes it. They are OK in bandpass configurations but you will see a very peaky bass reflex so be very careful if you go that route
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I would stick to Kinetik or Power Master, can't go wrong with those. As for free shipping, nothing is ever free, you will pay more for the battery with free shipping or less for one that charges shipping just look at the total cost when comparing your options.
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i will work for now, without dimensions couldn't tell you how well but something is better than nothing
cheap prefab boxes are very common and mainstream people are usually happy with them until they hear what their subs can do in the right box.
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your RCA's will have nothing to do with the way your amp lights up, good RCA's are important for sound quaility
I use 8awg power wire for speaker wire on my bigger installs, may be overkill but it works great for me and it looks good too
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Looks like you drag race that blazer, i had an 89 with the 350cid conversion and the 700r4 tranny. the stock rear end had 273 gears and it sucked! i tried changing it to 373's and it still sucked. broke the ring gear when i hit the nitrous so i traded it out for a 12 bolt rear end with hardened axles and it never gave me any more issues.
They have after market rear ends available thru Jeggs or Summitt Racing that are bullet proof if you are running slicks on it and pushing it hard you might want to try giving them a call to see what they have for you.
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if memory serves me that LHS has an inverted V6 and nearly no room to physically fit a second alt. see if anyone has a large case conversion kit for it and put a 300+ amp alt on it with a smaller pulley to increase idle output. check with MLA to see if they have a Pro Series module for your application, it has a high low switch that allows you to run a lower voltage all day and flip a switch to bump to 15.3 (or so) volts when you are at full tilt.
Also i think MechMan offers an adjustable voltage regulator upgrade with a remote control on most of his alternators, this would serve the same purpose as the MLA module.
With enough batteries you will be fine. I ran one 200a alt with 5 batteries for two years with no problems before i upgraded to the new set up. Just couldn't roll for hours at full volume but who can stand 150+db's for that long anyway.
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basic bag job installed prob about $3500 or so
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how much would all of that run me (roughly)
im in school so i dont have ANY time to work on it myself....
also, you know of any good shops in central florida that could do the job right?
thanks
check out Silver Star Customs they are closer to you than I am. one of the top shops in the US right now.
As for cost, plan on anywhere from 5k-7500 if you want it done right. You could get a basic job done for 3500 but it would prob break or ride like crap. The pics of mine from just lowered with wheels to bag it right laying frame and put the expedition front clip on it cost $7000, we are waiting to paint the clip till the body drop is complete just in case it gets a few scratches it is just easier to sand down primer then start over. That is a hook up thru a friend that owns a body shop and does bag jobs on the side. I do have a fuel cell instead of a gas tank, have two battery racks and 4 compressors under the bed that we had to fabricate the way i wanted it so it could have been less if i wasn't soo picky.
When i get it back i will have the tubular control arms that are on it for sale, they are the DJM lowered control arms that we chopped down and plated to work with larger wheels. The body drop should start this week if they have room for it at Ekstensive Metalworks. They have been busy, gave them the deposit about 6 months ago and haven't had room to take it in yet. Guess you have to wait for the best sometimes, like i could really see progress from where i am in Iraq anyway so as long as it is done when i get home everything will be great.
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here is mine before i started the body drop, that frame hangs low under the truck and without the tranny crossmember it would have been about and inch higher in the front.
the wheels cambered in like crazy when it layed out to clear the old fenders, it won't do that as bad when the body drop is complete since the expedition front clip gives me more room for wheel clearance.
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To lay frame on 22" or larger wheels properly and have a good ride you will need the following:
2" drop spindles
Upper and lower lowered tubular control arms (plate in the lower and bolt the bag to it so you don't use a bag cup)
Slam RE6 or RE7 bags (slam bags usually don't need shocks in the front so it makes install easier)
Transmission crossmember (Grant Customs makes one for the F150) or it will not lay frame just sit on the tranny crossmember making it sit higher in the front than the back
your choice of valves, i like Parker 1/2 inch valves but there are lots of good brands (you need 8 of them)
1/2 air line, dot approved plastic line or you can plumb it with copper tubing, your choice (copper will last longer)
Switch box or ride height controller
2 link with panhard bar, 3 link, parallel 4 link with watts link or pan hard bar, or a triangulated 4 link for the back (on the tri-4link the gas tank will need to be relocated)
step notch
Compressors (i like the Viair 480's, 100% duty cycle and goes to 200psi) get atleast two and minimum 5 gallons of air, i would recommend 10 gallons and 4 compressors
You will need to relocate alot of electronics under the hood and relocate the wheel tubs in the front
I used a hydroboost to eliminate the brake booster (tire hit it when it was layed out) not necessary but you will need it for bigger wheels
tubs for the bed unless you are going to leave it open (not an option for me since i have a bed cut and the system is back there)
Compression fittings, don't use the push style fittings they will eventually fail and leave you screwed on the side of the road
There are other crossmembers you will have to notch and you may have to notch the cab slightly if you have an extended cab or crew cab. you will see where the drive shaft will hit when it is aired out.
that is the majority of it, you will need mad welding skills or a good installer to make it happen.
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Batteries just add storage, right now i can confidently tell you to buy an alternator. That caddy prob has 70-90 amp alternator that barely keeps it running as is then you add a system that draws that by itself and there is nothing left to keep the car happy. I recently picked up a pair of alts from Mechman, priced very reasonably. One 200a alt will be more than enough for what you have but the 250a is not too much more so why not go for the big one.
A failing battery will show these symptoms much sooner than a fresh battery, replacing the stock battery may temporarily hide the problem but it will be back so keep a close eye on your voltage. Like stated earlier very low voltage may cause more damage than just your amp, it will overwork all the electronics in the car and could end up causing some expensive repairs.
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looked like 3/8 or 1/2 inch braided air line going to the valves so if it is that size all the way to the tank then you are good to go. If you can take a pic of your compressor and see if it has a model number on it we can help you see if it is set up right. Some compressors can only go to 140 PSI and you have to have a pressure switch to control the on and off time of the compressors so they don't burn up. I personally like the Viair 480C Compressors, they are reliable and go to 200PSI without damage.
Couldn't get a good look at the valves but if i had to guess they are 1/4 inch inner diameter so that is a choke point for air flow. Check for a model number and google it to get the specs.
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check your wheels cause if they don't tuck then don't get them or forget bagging it. you will also need a skilled fabricator to work with the 26's even if you don't want to lay all the way out. I think that MC did a truck like yours on 28's or 30's that layed out, looked awesome. If you look around you will find the post on here somewhere.
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suicide doors has always done me right.
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did i miss what woofers are going in it? depends on alot of factors, amp subs, vehicle, location. low lows play well from ported boxes with 10-12 sq inches of port face per cube. with a 6 inch port from top to bottom you will have somewhere in the area of 25-28 depneding on material thickness. that is alot but should get nasty low
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I covered them with dynamat extreme then ended up cutting them out when i did the bed-cut so they are long gone now.
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looks like a solid start
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Nice truck, we were at Polk last June for about a month before we made it over here. Hoping to be home again by late summer... Got a few tricks planned for my baby while I'm away too, mainly a body drop and some new paint.
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was it suicide doors? i have placed numerous orders from them shipped to me and to the shop that i work on my truck at and never had any problems. they have top notch customer service, let them now it was a problem on their end and they will find a solution that works for the both of you.
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If you are allowing the alternator to charge all the batteries by itself, you will never get a full charge especially if you have let them get low at all. Use a battery conditioner or trickle charger and top off the batteries and you will should see a difference. The next step I would recommend is a MLA module, have the alt put out 15.3v to overcome the internal resistance in the multiple batteries and they should stay nice and charged. A .3 drop in voltage for the "don't rape me lights" staying on for a minute seems like a lot. But it does sound like you are headed in the right direction, keep it up and you will have this fixed in no time!
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Copper bus bar, if you have access to the tools you can make a dist block. Get a thick piece of copper or your favorite metal and drill the holes to accept the gauge wire you are using then just drill and tap the top to hold your set screw. not hard to make if you have a drill press and a tap & die set.
1995 Cadillac Fleetwood
in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
Posted
air ride technologies or suicidedoors.com are both good places to start. Stay as far away from airbagit (and all other names they are going by now), it is cheap crap that will fail