sully
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Posts posted by sully
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sorry, don't know enough about this type of box to comment. I have seen a couple that pounded pretty hard but haven't played with them. If you used a good program to design the box then I would trust it and give it a try.
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Measure and see if you can fit the 1800, if so then you will be fine, if you are still worried you can take your alt off and have a local shop upgrade it to a 180 - 200 amp for cheap or get a HO alt. A second battery is going to be overkill unless you like to pound on it a lot when you are sitting letting your engine just Idle, you can also look into a smaller alt pulley so that you will be at max charge just above idle speed. Lots of options cheaper than installing a second battery.
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Was that a bullet holding the hood open? Cool RC, it has got to be a lot of fun.
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if 8-9 cuft is external volume then I would prob try to squeeze in 4 15's and even at that you will be cutting it close. After material, port and spkr displacement you really don't have that much room, definitely not enough for 6 15's if you want it to sound right on music. With that kind of power the loaded BTL's would be a good choice.
Also you have to think about where all the batteries and amps will go, if that is not figured into the max space for the box then you will loose even more space and may want to consider 4 12's
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do not try to bag your truck yourself, if you have never done one it needs to be installed by someone with working knowledge of air suspension. That being said, call suicidedoors or kplinks and they will sell you everything you will need as a package, don't go cheap on compressors if you plan to play with it or you will be sitting waiting for your tank to fill up before you can raise it up enough to drive. Also be ware of cheap inferior products, places like airbagit, chassistech and what ever other name they use this week has awesome pricing but they use thinner metal and do not have good quality control.
A list of parts on my bagged 03F150 include:
Slam Specialties RE6 front bags (2) $190
Slam Specialties RE7 rear bags (2) $190
4 Viair 480C compressors $750
2 5 Gallon tanks with 1/2" ports $120
8 Parker 1/2" Valves $500
Belltech 2" Drop spindles $300
3" DJM tubular lowered control arms (upper and lower arms) $600
Dakota Digital DAC2000 Air ride height controller $800
Suicide Doors triangulated superlift 4 link (40" lower bars and 39" upper bars) $480
All fittings are 1/2" brass compression fittings with inner brass sleeve (no plastic or PTC fittings for me) $300
1/2" DOT Air line $50
Suicide Doors bed notch cover with wheel tubs $140
1/0 Power wire and PAC200 Relay for Compressors $175
Custom Step Notch $150
Grant Fabrications transmission crossmember $80
Custom built Fuel cell with stock pump and sending unit $400
$5225 in parts, may have forgotten some things but that is most of it.
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I love my dakota digital gauges, they are accurate and look great. Worth the extra few bucks for sure!
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If it is a lighted switch one of the terminals is for a ground (not used if you don't want it to light up). Use a test light or multimeter to check the rem wire going into the switch to make sure it is getting a 12v signal, if not you have more important issues to fix before worrying about the switch. take a pic if you can so we can see how the switch is hooked up.
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If that is the same one that hits the shows here in DFW it is a 3500 Chevy. The one I saw had a little flake in the color so when you looked at it, it seemed almost sparkle. They put way too much time it that frame to just put a truck back on it.
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never trust nails in a box like that, wood glue and countersunk screws is the way to go.
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don't try it, looks like all it does is fool the ECM into thinking that the air flow sensor is hooked up when it is not. More than likely it will cause the A/F ratio to lean out a little bit and that is bad.
I drag race a nitrous hayabusa and have two different fuel maps depending on conditions and how much nitrous i am running. It runs like a bat out of hell when the A/F is on the lean side but it borders on detonation when i push it. If you want to try it you should check your plugs after a couple thousand miles, if they look even a little bit white (chalk like) on the tips then you are too lean and are slowly killing your pistons.
My rule is that there is no "cheap" HP. You are going to spend some money to see any substantial gains. If you are looking to unleash your wasted HP try some electric fans instead of the crank pulley one or and underdrive pulley set up, you will see a noticeable difference in how fast the engine will spin up RPM's thus allowing you to get into the powerband faster and stay there longer.
Just my .02 hope it helps
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the 5" front end drop is from the 2 inch spindle and 3" coil. I had it on my 89 S-10 blazer and it was too low for a static drop. ended up puting a V8in and keping just a 2" drop with the spindle and stock springs.
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make sure you use Slam Specialties bags and good 1/2" valves (i like parkers) and a reputable shop can do it for $3500. I spent $5400 on mine but got a Dakota Digital ride height controler and extra compressors plus had to buy drop spindles to lay out on 24"s.
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I usually use ported boxes because they can be tuned to produce the frequencies usually found in most music rather efficiently... Meaning that you have higher output over a wide frequency range versus a sealed box. Bandpass have an even higher output but over a limited frequency range so if you just want low lows and want it as loud as possible this is a good option for you.
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it's the glue used to make MDF that is toxic. They did release a report that says working mid shifts causes cancer so I guess everything is bad for you.
Spl Measurements....
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where would you get the program and meter to hook up to a laptop, been thinkin about this since i quit working at a shop that had one. would it need to be calibrated? Sorry for all the questions, just wouldn't mind having one to play with.