sully
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Posts posted by sully
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You have to cut out the bow tie to make room for the grill. It is not a bolt over one like the cheapies. Nothing major just take an air saw to it and have fun.
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the camber should not be maxed out on a 2/3 drop unless something else is wrong. Camber kits are an easy fix or you can put the stock springs back in and do a 2" lowered spindle. You will get a better ride and not have any camber issues.
BTW sorry you are at Ft Polk, I've hated every minute I spent there.
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If you've still got a clutch fan then it makes sense that the voltage drops when it engages. It draws HP from the extra resistance on the crank pulley, this can cause the belt to slip slightly if it is older and cause a momentary drop in voltage from the alt. I would get a smaller pulley on the alt and put a new belt on the car before doing anything else to see if it fixes the problem. Next step is the big 3, then alternator and batteries.
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maybe it's cause you got so pissy in this thread
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I used to install for Circuit City, I've seen it happen.
Unplug your alarm and see what happens.
You have just identified the problem, Circuit Shitty...
I worked for them in college and the installers at my store were clueless
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Dampen the whole vehicle. The main reason BMW's sound so great is because they have little to no road noise and they are built solid so nothing resonates inside the cab. I would strip the interior and start with two to three layers of good dampner. A solid 3 way setup in the front, components in the rear and a couple 8's or one 12 in a T-Line for subs. Follow that with clean power and look into the Audio Control system diagrams for what processors you will need.
That will give you a good start, it will take alot of work to get where you are headed but it is achievable.
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I'd go with the Kinetik batts, mainly cause i have used them and know they will do a great job. if you don't do those definitely go with the Powermaster, scrap the Optima's unless you get a smoking deal on them.
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One of my soldiers here in Iraq has one of the 2007's, I'll ask him what's up with his when he gets back off mission.
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You will prob rub slightly with 31's when you turn the wheel all the way but it will look good and fill the fenders. A suspension lift is the way to go, body lifts are cheaper but don't look right and give you no more ground clearance so it is all show with no benefit offroad. A 3 inch lift should accommodate a 35" tire with slight rubbing when you turn and a 33" tire would clear with no problems. As for the wheels, i have no idea on the new colorado's. I would venture to say that you might have to get one with a center cap and drill out the middle to clear the hub if that is what they are saying hits the wheel and doesn't let if sit flush. This must be in the 4x4 models only.
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There are some good deals going on right now on HO alts, they are not nearly as expensive as they were a few years ago. Shop around the dealers available here on the site and do your research, you will be happy with Iraggi, DC or MechMan alts. They are all good brands just choose which one fits your needs the best.
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In the order that I would try to fix this:
Big 3, 1/0 power wire upgrade
Upgrade stock battery to largest Kinetik that will fit
MLA module if available
secondary battery if problem persists
You will start to see improvements as you go down the list. I would keep an eye on the voltage and as soon as it stays over 13 volts at full tilt you are good to go. Electrical systems is usually the last thing people think to upgrade when adding stereo systems and it should be one of the first. As you increase your voltage you will notice an increase in output from the stereo.
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The storage will not help if you don't have the charging capabilities to back it up. Go with the alt first you already have a good battery, then another battery if you still need it later. I would suggest going with an alt with an external regulator like the ones from MechMan that you can turn up the voltage from inside the vehicle when you need it and keep it at 14volts when you are just cruising around.
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That's some beefy lookin mids
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I would guess voltage drop, if it is good till it hits a couple hard notes then sounds muffled and looses volume. Does it hit hard again if you back off the volume for a couple minutes then crank it back up. Can you check with a multimeter to see what the voltage drops to after it has been playing, my guess would be into the 10's if it is as bad as you say. Do this soon or you might loose the amp.
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nice number!
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If they were mine i would trickle charge them overnight, stock electrical systems will not charge multiple batteries very well. They can maintain fully charged batteries over time but it is a good idea to have them topped off before installing them. Keep an eye on the battery bank too, you may want to hook a charger up to them weekly or monthly depending on how hard you pound your system. I have a quick disconnect under the hood of my truck that i plug into a charger while the truck is parked in the garage. Keeps the batteries nice and fresh all the time.
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check the head unit, if it does it with both your amp an his then the issue is with the remote wire or the head unit. With the head unit on what is the voltage at the back of the radio? or at the battery?
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I've got a 40 farad cap at the house i have been thinking of using but it will only smooth the power out, not really do the same thing as a battery will. I would only use one if you already have the needed batteries and alternator. That being said I would go with a HC1800 in the front and a 1400 in the cab for a 3000 watt system.
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I've used 4/0 and 2/0 welding wire alot, it is not flexible like what you are used to. It works great as long as you don't have any tight bends, I ran the 4/0 down my frame to the rear battery bank but i wouldn't try to run it thru the firewall and under the carpet.
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Just have to find a product that you can get a deal on and you can sell it on the internet via Ebay etc
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Get with Air Ride Technologies, they may have a bolt on kit that would solve your problems
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I wish i had pics of my first box, it was horrible.
For a first try that box of yours is awesome! You must have done some research and taken notes. Like stated above, bracing is my only constructive criticism, wood work looks good, for a first try at carpeting it turned out pretty good. Keep up the effort and you will soon be a really good box builder.
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Your voltage should be 14.2 to 14.4 if the batteries are charged and the alternator is working.
You should get a MLA module or find a how to thread on upgrading your voltage output of the alternator to around 15 to 15.3 if you don't want to get a HO alt.
Also what type of vehicle?
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you may want to do some more research before you try a T-Line, doesn't sound like you fully grasp the idea. There are some good How To's on here if you use the search engine.
Cheap Alternators
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
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Autozone or NAPA if it is for a stock application, Mom prob doesn't need a HO alt.
Off topic but is that F150 in your avatar body dropped or is it a photoshop?