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sully

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Posts posted by sully

  1. If money is a concern try buying a rebuild kit for your alt that ups the output, they are around a $100-150 and will put you around 200a. Other than that you can see if they make a MLA module for your Armada. Check with MechMan, he sold me three HO alts for around $700 total (two for my truck and one for my car).

    First thing you need to do is the Big 3 cause if you do get a bigger alt you will not be able to transport the extra power anyway.

  2. I've got a 2003 F150 that I put a 2006 Expedition front clip on, bolts right up just make some spacers for the front of the fenders so they line up. I've heard that the 2007 and up expy front clips work too but they may need a little more modification.

    Here is a pic of mine before it was dropped off for a body drop, still in primer so they wouldn't have to worry about scratching fresh paint.

    Picture679.jpg

  3. You're right about having a hard time finding wheels for the older F150's. I had a hell of a time picking something I liked when I started the body drop. I ended up giving the shop building the new frame a few criteria for what I was looking for and they found me about 5 wheels to choose from.

    Ended up with 26" Bentchi B7's that they are trying to cram under the hood wrapped in 295 30 26's. Not a very big tire but i would have to loose my A/C if i went with a bigger tire.

  4. DON'T DO IT YOURSELF unless you have an experienced friend to help. I can bag one in a weekend as long as you don't want big wheels but the first one that my friends and i bagged took over a week and we ended up doing it again almost right away because it was a big learning experience.

    If you do decide to do it don't get one of the universal kits, go with suicide doors S10 bolt/weld on kit that pretty much lines up and doesn't need alot of fab work. Guessing where to mount things and trial and error is what makes it hard so as long as you can weld go for it with one of these kits and it should take you 3 days tops.

  5. I've been riding for about 11 years, started with an 89 Suzuki Katana 600 that lasted a couple years then upgraded to a 2002 GSXR600 that made it about a year before i got my current 2003 Suzuki Hayabusa which is modded out to a 274rwhp nitrous injected beast.

    Start small enough not to kill yourself, a good used 600 is great but you will get bored pretty quick and want to upgrade. The newer GSXR1000's do come with a three way selector switch that lowers power output for inclement weather but you can use it to learn with then go to full power when you are a little more experienced. I think they started this in 2006 so you could pick up a used one pretty cheap.

  6. Sorry I'll be home on leave from Iraq for the first half of July. Sucks cause I'm only around for this show about every other or every third year but good luck, it's hard to win anything there cause it is soo big and you almost need to know the judges.

  7. if it is the outer edge of the tire you have positive camber which is not a good thing. You must have had it aligned then are driving with it above the ride height that it was set on during the alignment. I use the Dakota Digital ride height controller, works off of air pressure and or ride height sensors. I can't use the sensors because i get too much lift and I am unable to get it to work properly but the air pressure is close enough that i don't get any uneven tire wear. I'll even drive with aired out draggin the frame on the ground for short periods and don't notice any tire wear. My last bagged car had McPhearson bag over struts and I didn't even get it aligned for 6 months after i bagged it and was just starting to show bad wear on the inside of the tires.

  8. I had a system in my s10 regular cab and ran a few alpine mrp 1000's and my stock burned up in a matter of hours without dropping voltage like crazy. Does adding a crazy load on a alt provoke it to break even without bad electrical? I never dropped below 13.89. I think this may just happen again. So just wait for the alternator and put a batt in the rear and i SHOULD have no worries?

    Yes, the excess strain on your charging system can cause something to fail. Either your alt or your amp will go. You can put in the system in and play it without the alt just don't pound on it for long periods of time before getting the electrical up to par.

  9. the 160 is an ad244 with a 160 stator in it from a local alternator shop, he put it on the alternator dyno machine thing and i saw it said like 165amp also the 2 yellow tops were charged b4 install and they are the D75/25 (8042-218) model

    You have now identified your problem. I had a 200 amp alt built like that at a local shop that showed a little over 200a on his machine but it didn't put out crap at idle and after it got warm it lost power too.

    Get a real HO alt (MechMan, Power Master, Ohio Gen etc...) and go with a 200-250 amp model with a overdrive pulley to up the idle output. A dual kit would be awesome but with what you have maybe not necessary. My air ride pulls around a 100a when the 4 viair 480's are running plus the system and batteries just covered up the problem til i could get the real HO alts in.

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