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Posts posted by sully
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I want to say that one of the guys found a video on youtube that uses a penny to fix the problem. He was fixing them like crazy in Iraq cause it is sooooo hot over there that over half of they guys I knew that had them got the red ring of death.
If it is under warranty then let them fix it, if not search youtube and you will see the how to video.
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The way I log into the cameras at work is by using the IP address for the DVR. They make specific internet based cameras that come with viewing software but you can do it with any camera as long as you can share the DVR over the network.
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It sounds more like a ground issue than a bad amp but I would exchange it since u just got it. Paying shipping one way will be well worth it if it ends up being an internal problem.
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Damn 5 years, where were you prison?
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I used a PAC200 for years, now since all the batteries are together I use it to turn on and off my 4 Viair compressors for the air ride. Guess it isn't wasted money since it is still in use.
Having that PAC200 up front was great when I had a dead battery cause I could just take any piece of metal and arc across the output post and the turn on post when the key was in the ignition and voila self jump start!
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Cam, larger valves, stall converter (if an automatic). If you want crazy power you can go forced induction and add turbo's or supercharger.
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Nearly 10 inches in Rockwall, I moved here to get away from the snow this isn't cool. People here don't know how to drive in this crap so I will not be leaving the house tonight.
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do you already have drop spindles in the front? I am looking forward to seeing how these tuck the 6's cause without spindles it will camber pretty hard.
waits patiently.....
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The 55w 5k's are going to be the brightest you can get with this company, makes it look like daylight in front of your car. Unless your headlight housing is way small like a fog light then you don't have to worry about it getting hot enough to melt the housing.
As for the company being slow, for that price and from what I have seen the quality of the kit I can wait a few extra days.
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Research your vehicles alternator, I know on the ford 3G's you can put a resistor inline on one of the wires at the plug and it will up the voltage. Each alternator is going to be different but you could find a way to do this for $0.25 or less. Fixed charging is not that difficult but when you want adjustable voltage you will need one of these modules. Google will be your friend to find specs on this for you.
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Maybe you have a bad ballast
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I can't wait to see this build. I've been looking at bagging my 03 tahoe for the past few months. Does anyone know if this kit will lower the towing capacity of the truck? I've still got to pull my F150 with the hoe to shows but want it to look good doing it.
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Sorry to hurt your feelings, JL Audio lists recommended power on their site in the form of a graph. 125w is "optimal", 250w is in the "danger zone" and anything over 300w is "warranty void".
People should know this before buying used equipment, if you have the option to exchange these for new ones then that is the only way you are going to get what you are asking for them. A pair of these new can be purchased on the internet for $180 shipped.
These subs may be fine but throwing a fit saying you won't be lowballed into selling these subs is not a good way to get them sold. I offered what I believe they are worth with the power you have put to them. Someone may purchase them for more, good luck selling these subs. JL makes some great products, I have always been impressed with their subs and amps.
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nevermind, I just saw that you were putting 300w RMS to each of them. RMS power handling on these is 125w with 300 MAX, I'll pass unless you want to sell for about $50 + shipping cause I don't think these will last.
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where is the trim ring?
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check to see if your state allows for exemptions, I have a medical exemption for window tint and have the front windshield tinted as well as the sides and back blacked out. All I did was have my doctor write a letter to the DPS office and a few weeks later I was good to go.
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I've got a little over 3 bulk packs in my regular cab but I did pretty much everything in at least 2 layers. 1 layer doesn't always work, the idea is to put enough on to deaden it which can take 2+ layers sometimes.
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contact suicidedoors and they will get you set up, probably some SMC valves. I've always run Parker valves but they are a little more money, just personal preference.
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Mine gives me that white screen with the hour glass in the middle and shuts off randomly. Never had it loose any data though.
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If it is credit card debt then I would recommend contacting them and negotiating lower interest rates. People are defaulting on debts right now and they understand that sometimes you need some help. It is in their best interest to negotiate terms rather than forcing you into bankruptcy. They will at least get the principle back with some interest if they lower your rate rather than getting pennies on the dollar if you declare BK. Most for profit credit relief agencies will do this for you and charge you outrageous fees, you can do it by yourself if you have the patience, it will not happen overnight but you need to stay current on your payments to the best of your ability to show that your are trying to keep up your end of the original agreement. I've been there before, at one point I had almost 20k worth of credit card debt and it took years to catch up but there is an end though it may not feel like it right now.
blow thru
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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if you do that I wouldn't do subs up port back, kinda defeats the purpose of it all. Wall it off and keep it back a good ways from the window opening but subs and port forward would be my call. It will end up being like my bed cut (mine is almost as big as the back glass) and it is subs/port forward and it slams!
Tune it low and have fun with it, done right it will sound great and knock your head off coming thru that window opening.