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sully

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Posts posted by sully

  1. if you do that I wouldn't do subs up port back, kinda defeats the purpose of it all. Wall it off and keep it back a good ways from the window opening but subs and port forward would be my call. It will end up being like my bed cut (mine is almost as big as the back glass) and it is subs/port forward and it slams!

    Tune it low and have fun with it, done right it will sound great and knock your head off coming thru that window opening.

  2. I want to say that one of the guys found a video on youtube that uses a penny to fix the problem. He was fixing them like crazy in Iraq cause it is sooooo hot over there that over half of they guys I knew that had them got the red ring of death.

    If it is under warranty then let them fix it, if not search youtube and you will see the how to video.

  3. I used a PAC200 for years, now since all the batteries are together I use it to turn on and off my 4 Viair compressors for the air ride. Guess it isn't wasted money since it is still in use.

    Having that PAC200 up front was great when I had a dead battery cause I could just take any piece of metal and arc across the output post and the turn on post when the key was in the ignition and voila self jump start!

  4. The 55w 5k's are going to be the brightest you can get with this company, makes it look like daylight in front of your car. Unless your headlight housing is way small like a fog light then you don't have to worry about it getting hot enough to melt the housing.

    As for the company being slow, for that price and from what I have seen the quality of the kit I can wait a few extra days.

  5. Research your vehicles alternator, I know on the ford 3G's you can put a resistor inline on one of the wires at the plug and it will up the voltage. Each alternator is going to be different but you could find a way to do this for $0.25 or less. Fixed charging is not that difficult but when you want adjustable voltage you will need one of these modules. Google will be your friend to find specs on this for you.

  6. Sorry to hurt your feelings, JL Audio lists recommended power on their site in the form of a graph. 125w is "optimal", 250w is in the "danger zone" and anything over 300w is "warranty void".

    People should know this before buying used equipment, if you have the option to exchange these for new ones then that is the only way you are going to get what you are asking for them. A pair of these new can be purchased on the internet for $180 shipped.

    These subs may be fine but throwing a fit saying you won't be lowballed into selling these subs is not a good way to get them sold. I offered what I believe they are worth with the power you have put to them. Someone may purchase them for more, good luck selling these subs. JL makes some great products, I have always been impressed with their subs and amps.

  7. If it is credit card debt then I would recommend contacting them and negotiating lower interest rates. People are defaulting on debts right now and they understand that sometimes you need some help. It is in their best interest to negotiate terms rather than forcing you into bankruptcy. They will at least get the principle back with some interest if they lower your rate rather than getting pennies on the dollar if you declare BK. Most for profit credit relief agencies will do this for you and charge you outrageous fees, you can do it by yourself if you have the patience, it will not happen overnight but you need to stay current on your payments to the best of your ability to show that your are trying to keep up your end of the original agreement. I've been there before, at one point I had almost 20k worth of credit card debt and it took years to catch up but there is an end though it may not feel like it right now.

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