sully
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Posts posted by sully
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Ive run Viairs for years trouble free, I've got 4 480's on my truck right now. You may have gotten a couple bad ones or ran them too hard for too long. They are rated to 200psi and will do it all day long but you will need alot more than two if you are going to play with the switches a bunch. They are destined to fail on 10 gallons of air if they are running constantly.
Oasis are great but very expensive or try to fit an engine driven compressor under the hood.
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I don't use either, guess I'm old school. I've always braced with MDF, done properly you will have little to no flex. I've see a lot of builds on here that didn't need half the bracing that was used. If you are doing 4 woofers on a single flat surface you will need 1.5" mdf on that side, a couple strategically placed braces and you will be more than fine. If you are going with a packman style face on the box the design alone makes it less likely to flex and a few MDF braces are going to make it rock solid. Easiest way to look at it is the larger the mounting surface the woofer are on the more bracing you will need.
You can also design the port so that it acts like a brace to cut down flex.
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it's soooooo good to be home. i will never take anything for granted again
I know that's right, I got back from Iraq a couple months ago and we are going to Afghanistan in the summer, deployments really let you know what you are missing.
Welcome back and thanks for your service!
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there is no way I would run them on that car. The ride is going to be way bad unless you go with bags. There is going to be cutting either way, bags are cheaper, ride better and easier to replace if something goes wrong.
I would do a Slam RE7 or a firestone 2700lb bag up front if you can get it to fit, with a good shock the ride will be amazing.
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Can this control 2 ford 3G Mechman 250 alts with one module? It is on a 2003 F150 4.2l
Also with this module can I go back to running a 14v battery bank? I had one before but the alternator couldn't keep it fully charged. The tech at Ford said as long as I keep it under 16volts max the stock electronics are going to be fine. And will charging at 15.7 or so be enough to keep 14volt batteries charged?
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Around 2.40 if I'm lucky, lately it has been more like 2.50. DFW
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Get wit IF Custom they are ford specialists.
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Hit up the major manufacturers and see what they can do. Someone might give you a price break if you are doing 36 12's in there.
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the kit comes with 8 valves
open the link and read
You have officially been put on my do not help this guy list. It would be in you best interest not to be a smart ass to people that are trying to help you.
It was stated that only 2 valves were needed. We explained why you would need 8.
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that's a good idea, but i just have my monitors turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
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I just got back from OIF 09-11, stationed in Tallil. It was my 3rd deployment, second to the Middle East.
Thank you for your service!
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I will vote for you when you post the link, it is definitely worth the try.
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sounds like a good deal, i think knowing someone or having a ride that will be featured in magazines anyway is the only way to get the sponsorship. I've got my fingers crossed that someone picks up my truck when it is done so I can update the system before it is featured in Truckin.
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you won't be pullin that much current with a single viair 380c and those amps. You car will fit a HC1400 up front and I would put 2 HC2400's in the back. With a good HO alt you will be more than fine.
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call suicidedoors.com and tell them the vehicle. The package they quote will have everything you need. If you have never done a truck on air before you will need their tech support and a great welder.
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You will want 8 valves even if you do not do FBSS. Reason for this is when you are driving the car will sway and can actually pull from side to side if you do not isolate the air in each bag/cylinder.
YES that kit is the way to go for your ride, it even comes with the 8 valves you will need. Suicide doors is the good stuff, and customer service is #1.
Also unless you have someone that has done multiple air ride installs and knows the ins and outs you should get it prof installed.
You may run into leaks using PTC fittings, I like to use the compression fittings.
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a kinetik 1800 up front and 4 2400's in the back would be a good place to start.
You need to be much more specific with the equipment you will be running if you want a better answer.
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I am just starting to get into alternators so I'm by far not an expert but i have run dual setups, and single HO alts as well as modified stock alts. From my experience the bigger HO alts put more strain on the engine than two stock alts will and you will have better long term reliability from two smaller alts then one big one. Price aside my personal choice would be to run two smaller HO alts (180amp or so) than a single 300amp alternator or price being in the equation I would run two stock alts that have been modified to put out around 15 volts.
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I just don't have a spare on my truck cause the stereo takes up the whole bed and the batteries, compressors, air tanks and fuel cell are all under the bed.
Not that big a deal really, how many times have you ever had a flat tire? I've had two in 15 years and both of them were on tires that I should have replaced anyway.
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This is used pretty regularly, in fact I am going to run a second stock alternator on the Tahoe I just picked up (needed something to pull my truck) to power everything cause I haven't been having the best luck with the HO alts lately and the brackets are readily available for the 5.3l engines. I would recommend getting a MLA module to control the two but it can wait till the money is there.
You could also look into getting just the MLA for your current alternator to see if it bumps you up enough to keep you going.
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That kicker amp you posted would be nice, if you don't mind that price it would be a great amp for your subs.
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Those pills are useless, they don't do anything
Charging Multipal batteries
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
You need a maintainer more than a quck charger. Something that you can hook up overnight daily and has the circuitry in it to desulfate and cycle the batteries. A charger of this type will discharge the batteries and then fully charge them and in FLOAT mode it will pulse charge them instead of a steady charge. You will get much better life out of your batteries if you use the right charger. If I remember right mine was right around $120 and it kept my battery bank fully charged/maintained durring two different year long deployments. I plug my truck in everytime it is in the garage using the quick connect that I tucked behind the front grille.