jlgn_2000
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Posts posted by jlgn_2000
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daamn, thats the craziest paint....sharpie job i have ever seen
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ORANGE CHICKEN FTW!!!!!!!!!!!! :spiteful: :spiteful:
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HAHA good sh!t, :drinks: You should hit up Mill ave, there are some good bars down there, specially with school about to start
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damn i WAS hungry...not anymore
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I just went and picked up their album and I actually liked it. Its the first album in a while that actually has good content in the lyrics
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Sounds right...each will be 21.86.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 you should get something very close.
My ports came out huge at 21" long also..I have a smaller box too. What Im doing is making my ports removable..so I can build my box first then sort out the port length after and pop them in...after I know exact air space.
Thats a good idea but I wouldn't really be able to do that with my box because of the small amount of space I have to work with the port has to have a 90 degree angle in it.
So what I am gonna do is have two ports, one on each side of the box each with an internal dimesion of 10x3x22. Now my only problem is I have to make sure that the total volume of the box is 6.3 cubes since the two ports would take up 1.3 cubes.
....Well no one ever said car audio was easy...but I'm sure i'll be able to knock it out :aggressive: Thanks for all the help, I'll have more progress by sunday night hopefully
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I just noticed you are using a kicker sub...similar to my build. Im using one L7 15" though with two ports, but I am only using two to make it symmetrical.
Use this to figure up port length if you are doing two. Only difference to get tuning with more than one port is to take your expected airspace and divide it by the number of ports. So if you are going for a 5 ft^3 box, you would put 2.5 ft^3 in this formula instead.
Lv = port length
Av = your port area (height x width of the port face)
Vb = the internal volume of your box
Fb = the tuning frequency you want
You could also use the calculator on carstereo.com but this is more accurate.
Thank you very much for the feedback. I am using two ports too because I want it symmetrical as well. Since the sub has to go in the middle I want to have a port on each side. So I took the formula and this is what I got:
I used:
Av=10 inch x 3
Vb=5 cubes (I input 2.5 into the formula)
Fb=35 Hz (I only used this because that is was the manual has the boxes tuned to, should I use something different?)
21.86=((10*3)*1.84*10^8)/(2.5*1728*(35/0.159)^2)-0.823*SQRT(10*3)
So to make sure I understand correctly I would use two ports, each with an internal dimension of 10x3 and 22 inches long and that should give me 35 Hz?
For some reason is seams really long. But this is my first time building a ported box so I am deffinately a noob in this area. Can someone confirm this for me?
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What if I was to do 2 ports instead of one. The manual says to do 60 sq inches of port at 14.5 inches long. What if I was to do two smaller ports, each 30 sq inches and each 14.5 in long? would the tuning still be the same?
I would have the ports like this, where the green is
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Someone has to have tried this before...any input would be helpful
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this is a better pic
the front of the box is going to be cut later at an angle so i can lean the seat back
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here is my build
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=20871
So I am in the process of building the box for my sub, i'm not going to wall it, the box is just going to be built into the back seat. I'm going over the manual and it says the box should be 5 cubes plus half a cube for the port. The inside dimensions are going to be 15"x16"x36" and the inside dimensions of the port is going to be 15"x3"x16" ( the manual said to add an extra 1.5" to the length of the port since it will have 90 degree angle which will tune it to 35 Hz.
My question is this, I want to have my sub and port centered, like this:
The pic would be looking down at the box with the sub being closer to the front of the car and the port closer to the back.
(yes, I suck at paint). In the manuals the port is always at the opposite side of the sub, do you guys think this will be ok?
The car is a 3000gt so it is a hatchback and the sub is being powered by a kx2500.1
*fixed the pic
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damn...i read this..got hungry..and now i just came back from polibertos (a great mexican food place here in phoenix) and I ate a bad ass shrimp burrito...damn it was good :yahoo:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-6m9KwipWo
sry never posted a vid on here hope it works its funny as hell!
just put the embed code you put up between this [you tube][/you tube] without the space in youtube
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It's a 2 inch bolt, and it's got to go through the 3/4 MDF then the sub. . . .It should be good. If not when the day comes I'll buy longer ones.
I think he is trying to say you won't really be able to tighten it, since it is only going through 3/4 mdf
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looks wierd
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I like it
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i gotta try that now
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you can always try knukonceptz, its 1.75 a ft
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that was awesome
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wow, that is a badass table, you just gave me so many ideas
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Ive tried both and I have to go with the BL
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another thing, you might want to double check your grounds, and make sure you sanded off the paint where your grounds are connected
'96 Explorer Hu Install
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted
yea "premium sound" sucks ballz, you have to take the back panels out to reach the factory amp or just rewire the door speakers