psturmer
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Posts posted by psturmer
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Ive got a Maxximus. Best amp Ive ever owned. Couldnt ask for anything more. It is a beast and puts out ridiculous amounts of power. (of course as long as you can supply it, which isnt an easy thing.) It can serve as a daily amp and can also run in competitions.
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12 12's takes no skill. anyone can build a sealed box for them and have it be resemble loud. i vote 4 15's all the way. more low end, more efficient.
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All you can do is try and see if your happy with the voltage drop. Some people are ok with being in the 12's, and some never wanna dip below 13. For me personally, I would be fine with 1 h/o alt and 4 batteries because I have been used to having 2 batteries and a stock alt.
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more wire = less resistance = less voltage drop = healthier on the amp.
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I have the design for this:
its 3.5 net @ 30hz. so the box gets down and plays low. its 41.5 wide and 18 high. i have the plan for it still if it would work.
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trial and error. you can have a setup thats louder with the box tuned 20hz higher than the cars res freq on paper yet be louder than a setup tuned to 5hz below res freq of car.
a general rule is to tuned 3-10hz below the cars res freq (everyone has there preference on how much lower to tune there box)
on another note. in my truck getting the correct box volume is more of a factor than the tuning freq.
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The Maxximus is rated at 7k @ 4 ohms and its overrated
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New price!
1700 + shipping
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ne trades..
A smaller amp(s) + cash. I am looking for something that is efficient and needs to do around 3-5k at any ohm load.
What's the required electrical??
I believe recommended for daily is like 6 G31 batteries and a H/O alt.
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This amp is a beast. It will do 12k+ at 16v. Dimensions are : 25.6 x 11.8 x 5.3. It weighs over 70lbs. I got it brand new last winter. It has never seen a repair. Functions 10/10 and cosmetically 10/10. The reason I am getting rid of it is because I am running a lower class next year and I don't have the power to back this up. It will ship in its original box. Bass knob is included. Asking 1900+shipping.
Price lowered to 1700 + shipping
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to get into spl you will need the following items.
1. termlab
2. place to test
3. some decent equipment
4. tons of wood and building materials
5. a shop to build stuff at
6. a good dmm
7. high amperage battery charger
then all you do is try everything
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Max box dimensions are, 41 wide, 24 tall, 32 deep and in dont know how to tune the ports, maybe someone could help me with that?
what kind of car
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whats the system?
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best way i have done is a V-block and a band saw. otherwise a miter saw or a table saw will work. i have also used a hack saw.
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rms on subs is useless.........
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??? I don't know how anyone can really give a RF without knowing WAY more about your build.
What one guy gets could be totally different just because of the way the box faces, or the size of the box, or any number of factors.
If you want to get it right all you can do is build it and run sweeps on the termlab to find your peak.
If you're building a box that you can't re-tune you need to rethink your design anyway
all newer explorer have been typically 48-52. and you do not necessarily need a box that can re-tune. most of the time you are very limited by tuning because of space. most guys put 4 12's back there and then amps so space is always really tight.
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typically 48-52hz sealed up
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if i had that amp and sub and truck in a day i would have a box in doing 144db legal
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24 hours driving strait through for me
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for street class's i know you must use a "db drag" cd. if your deck skips use a cd changer.
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woofers to the sides and ports back for spl and woofers back port back for sq fairies.
not necessarily.....
only way to find out is test yourself. best guess would just be subs up port back with aero ports internal.
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kinetiks are good, powermaster are great too, thats what steve uses
i have owned both. in burping powermaster's are better but for daily kinetik's will make your lights dim less. and powermaster's are more money so i would recommend kinetik
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what kind of numbers does it do? and where was the mic? sealed? etc.
Im stupid
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted · Edited by David
Bandt
Im stupid I cant follow the rules even after I was shown them