psturmer

Im stupid I cant follow the rules even after I was shown them

Ive got a Maxximus. Best amp Ive ever owned. Couldnt ask for anything more. It is a beast and puts out ridiculous amounts of power. (of course as long as you can supply it, which isnt an easy thing.) It can serve as a daily amp and can also run in competitions.

12 12's takes no skill. anyone can build a sealed box for them and have it be resemble loud. i vote 4 15's all the way. more low end, more efficient.

All you can do is try and see if your happy with the voltage drop. Some people are ok with being in the 12's, and some never wanna dip below 13. For me personally, I would be fine with 1 h/o alt and 4 batteries because I have been used to having 2 batteries and a stock alt.

more wire = less resistance = less voltage drop = healthier on the amp.

I have the design for this: its 3.5 net @ 30hz. so the box gets down and plays low. its 41.5 wide and 18 high. i have the plan for it still if it would work.

trial and error. you can have a setup thats louder with the box tuned 20hz higher than the cars res freq on paper yet be louder than a setup tuned to 5hz below res freq of car. a general rule is to tuned 3-10hz below the cars res freq (everyone has there preference on how much lower to tune there box) on another note. in my truck getting the correct box volume is more of a factor than the tuning freq.

The Maxximus is rated at 7k @ 4 ohms and its overrated

New price! 1700 + shipping

BUMP

A smaller amp(s) + cash. I am looking for something that is efficient and needs to do around 3-5k at any ohm load. I believe recommended for daily is like 6 G31 batteries and a H/O alt.

This amp is a beast. It will do 12k+ at 16v. Dimensions are : 25.6 x 11.8 x 5.3. It weighs over 70lbs. I got it brand new last winter. It has never seen a repair. Functions 10/10 and cosmetically 10/10. The reason I am getting rid of it is because I am running a lower class next year and I don't have the power to back this up. It will ship in its original box. Bass knob is included. Asking 1900+shipping. Price lowered to 1700 + shipping

to get into spl you will need the following items. 1. termlab 2. place to test 3. some decent equipment 4. tons of wood and building materials 5. a shop to build stuff at 6. a good dmm 7. high amperage battery charger then all you do is try everything

what kind of car

whats the system?

best way i have done is a V-block and a band saw. otherwise a miter saw or a table saw will work. i have also used a hack saw.

rms on subs is useless.........

all newer explorer have been typically 48-52. and you do not necessarily need a box that can re-tune. most of the time you are very limited by tuning because of space. most guys put 4 12's back there and then amps so space is always really tight.

typically 48-52hz sealed up

if i had that amp and sub and truck in a day i would have a box in doing 144db legal

24 hours driving strait through for me

for street class's i know you must use a "db drag" cd. if your deck skips use a cd changer.

not necessarily..... only way to find out is test yourself. best guess would just be subs up port back with aero ports internal.

i have owned both. in burping powermaster's are better but for daily kinetik's will make your lights dim less. and powermaster's are more money so i would recommend kinetik

what kind of numbers does it do? and where was the mic? sealed? etc.