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CVR or 5500?

Yeah I build ported boxes and he's had a sub sealed in his GTO before. He liked how ported sounded in my car so he wants ported. I was thinking 35-38 hz. I tune mine to 31-32 hz but I have a feeling that would be too low for him. But back to the question at hand, has anyone used both subs and have an opinion?

It's a 2 channel amp. It's maximum power is at 4 ohms bridged so I'd get the single 4 ohm version. He listens to half rap, half rock. I haven't decided what to tune his box to yet.

My friend has an '06 GTO and he wants a single 12 ported. He has an MTX TA3202 rated for 200 rms watts at 4 ohms bridged. The birthsheet says 275 watts. I can find either sub for around $100 shipped. Which do you think I should tell him to go with? I've had CVR12's but I don't have any experience with the T5500's.

Under products I'm only seeing the nightshade?

I thought they only made 10's and they were dual 4 ohm? Do you have a link?

I need a final 1 ohm load. I'm using a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D.

Okay sweet. Thanks a lot guys. Yeah my back batteries are not grounded to the frame. I have a battery negative run going from the rear batteries to the front battery. The front battery is grounded to the frame. The amps are grounded to the rear battery negative. So would I be better off to get rid of the Duralast and get like an HC800?

The amplifiers are grounded on the battery negative of one of the Kinetiks. Did you mean ground the Kinetiks? I have 1/0 connecting all the negatives together.

If I build a ported box to sit on the floor in the backseat behind the drivers seat, what directions should I fire the sub and port?

Anyone?

Is my Duralast Gold battery hurting my voltage? I have an Excessive Amperage 250A alternator, one Duralast Gold Size 65 battery under the hood wired in parallel with two Kinetik HC1800 batteries. I have the 3 batteries connected - to - to - and + to + to + (I have two runs of 1/0 going the length of the car), but only the Duralast under the hood is grounded to the chassis. My voltage driving around is usually 13.8V at the amplifier (with the stereo turned down all the way, but on). I took my car to Advance today. I unhooked the two 1/0 runs at the Duralast that connect it to the Kinetiks. They tested the battery and came up with 12.59V and 958CCA. I kept it disconnected from the Kinetiks and I had the guy test one of the Kinetiks. The Kinetiks were still wired in parallel with eachother when he did the test, but not grounded to the chassis because only the Duralast is. The test gave 13.06V and 1095CCA. I wish I disconnected the Kinetiks from eachother and had him test them separately, but they were closing in like 2 minutes. What can you guys tell me based on these tests? Thanks a lot.

Looks great man! God I love those '99 tahoes. If gas wasn't $4 a gallon I'd get a black '99.

I'm looking for four 12's around 250 rms watts that are either 2 ohm DVC or 4 ohm SVC. Let me know!

impedance? EDIT: nevermind... saw they only make dual 4 ohm

Ha nice. Great job on the box by the way, it looks awesome. It's nice to see others running a single 15 ported in that car instead of cramming four 15's sealed.

Oh okay. I'm glad you did. I haven't seen anyone else with that car do sub up, port back. Did you try sub back port back?

I have a '99 Grand Marquis, so basically the same car... I'm curious, why did you choose to fire the sub up?

Thanks guy. Well he wants to keep his backseat fully functional. Maybe if the box was downfired and not very tall they could put their feet on top of it? lol I've never built a downfired ported box, which direction should the port aim?

Negative. The gas tank is right there in the way surrounded by a metal cage. What about on the floor in the backseat?

Alright now he wants to try a new box. What do you guys think the loudest solution would be, just a normal ported box with the sub and port firing toward the rear in his trunk?

I don't compete. I just have a daily setup and I want to find out what I'm hitting and see what my peak frequency is. Let me know!

I think it was .29 ft3 before sub displacement. I didn't get your PM on *** until after I built it.

Yeah the whole thing had to cost less than $300, so that limited it a bit... plus I haven't worked with fiberglass much. I've never heard another 8" sub sealed and I've never had any sub sealed in my car, so I don't really have anything to compare it to. I prefer ported, but I guess I was a little disappointed I had to keep the gain all the way down... I have no idea what the voltage from the stock stereo is though.

Yeah lol. Don't ask... I would've gotten a manual too.