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hankfan79

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About hankfan79

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  1. I bought the AVBM. It works so far but its built poorly. 1 wire came out of the plug as soon as I opened the package. The adjustment knob doesn't have a max setting. It just keeps on turning. I opened the module (voids warranty) and found a very simple design. 2 wires were even twisted together with no connector and any protection. Very poor craftsmanship and high profit margin. The wires were short and very small in diameter. The plug looks like it was made with a 3D printer. Since dealing with Mechman and their products, I will most likely not do anymore business with them. Their CS seems to be good and their sales staff is friendly but their products seem to be sub par. $179 for a AVBM that probably cost $20 to make. Not trying to bash Mechman, just giving my honest opinion. Not getting optimum power from my alternator either. Yes, all my equipment is top notch so it's nothing other than the alternator itself.
  2. Nathan, Are you guys offering VCM's for Toyota applications yet? 2012 Camry to be specific.
  3. I chose to post here because Mechman is closed for the day and I wanted some outside advise I am going to explain my problem in the most exact way I can and list every single thing I can so there are no silly questions. I previously had low voltage issues with a install that I had done and couldn't narrow it down because the install was crap. Since then I have had the entire stereo re-done with a PREMIUM install. Here are the facts: 2012 Toyota Camry 240A Mechman Alternator (purchased about a year ago but only been in vehicle 6-8 months) XS Power D3400 under the hood. Big 3 upgrade with premium Sky High 1/0 wire. All wires are soldered and all grounds are proper and clean. Amps: Rockford Fosgate 1500 BDCP (bass) Rockford Fosgate T800-4ad (mids & highs) Subs: DC Audio Level 3 10's (2) Rear battery: XS Power D925 Processor: Audison Bit Ten 1/0 wire ran from front battery to rear. Amps are powered from the rear battery. SMD VM-1 tied into rear battery I am only capable of running 2200 rms (at 14.4v). I am having a massive issue with voltage. 13.1 at idle with HUGE dips all the way down to mid 11's on some serious bass notes. I just don't freaking understand!! I have premium equipment with more alternator and battery power that I should need for such a small stereo and still have voltage issues. I had higher voltage before the stereo!. Before install I had 13.8-14.0 (never had any higher. Even when new). PLEASE HELP!! My stereo is suffering because I can't get NORMAL voltage. That alternator is barely charging the batteries at all. I EVEN GET 13.0 with engine OFF!! I am at my end with this damn stereo. WHAT????????
  4. So you added the module to your FACTORY alt or your HO Alt?
  5. i said dont cry when you break things when you run them like you shouldnt.. like charging at 14.9 when it can damage the battery then people cry to the manufacturer.. No one has. That point doesn't apply to this thread. I have not abused any of my equipment.
  6. Honestly..I get better idle charge from my factory alternator. It's the weirdest shit I've ever seen.
  7. Yeah, I hate when people just assume you have no idea about what your doing. The issue was 2 part. 1. I realize I can't get 14.4 because of the car. 2. BUT! When the voltage is pulled down, the alternator should bring it back to it's regular voltage. That is it's purpose..right?
  8. First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator I have spoke with someone from mechman on a few occasions about this particular alternator and they are always quick to jump into belt slippage. I get insulted every time I hear it. I have used 2 different premium belts. That is not the case. I was also told by someone at Mechman that using this AVBM would cause my battery light to stay on in the car which I do not want. Posted that earlier.. Everything on this install is in tip top shape. Battery, wires, connections are all good. This was a last ditch effort. Guess I'm just screwed then.
  9. Not willing to do that on such a new car. That and the fact my battery indicator would continuously stay on. Probably void any sort of warranty I have (electrical). That came straight from the folks at Mechman. Why would the rear defrost draw the voltage down to such levels? Even with all factory electrics are turned on..it still comes back to 13.7 just not when the rear defrost is on. This is regardless of RPM.
  10. 13.3 just seemed a little low for driving at that rpm range. Wish I could figure out how to raise it. Well, without a nagging battery light on (module mod).
  11. Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl) Alt 240A Mechman Big 3 Xs Power Battery D3400 It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to. My voltage after idle down is 13.7 When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0 This is with no stereo running. When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that? In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.
  12. Alignment..yes. That's what I was thinking. This would require shimming.
  13. I have Gates. Lets see what Mechman suggests.
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