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hankfan79

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Posts posted by hankfan79

  1. I bought the AVBM. It works so far but its built poorly. 1 wire came out of the plug as soon as I opened the package. The adjustment knob doesn't have a max setting. It just keeps on turning. I opened the module (voids warranty) and found a very simple design. 2 wires were even twisted together with no connector and any protection. Very poor craftsmanship and high profit margin. The wires were short and very small in diameter. The plug looks like it was made with a 3D printer. Since dealing with Mechman and their products, I will most likely not do anymore business with them. Their CS seems to be good and their sales staff is friendly but their products seem to be sub par. $179 for a AVBM that probably cost $20 to make. Not trying to bash Mechman, just giving my honest opinion.

    Not getting optimum power from my alternator either. Yes, all my equipment is top notch so it's nothing other than the alternator itself.

  2. I chose to post here because Mechman is closed for the day and I wanted some outside advise

    I am going to explain my problem in the most exact way I can and list every single thing I can so there are no silly questions.

    I previously had low voltage issues with a install that I had done and couldn't narrow it down because the install was crap. Since then I have had the entire stereo re-done with a PREMIUM install.

    Here are the facts:

    2012 Toyota Camry

    240A Mechman Alternator (purchased about a year ago but only been in vehicle 6-8 months)

    XS Power D3400 under the hood.

    Big 3 upgrade with premium Sky High 1/0 wire. All wires are soldered and all grounds are proper and clean.

    Amps:

    Rockford Fosgate 1500 BDCP (bass)

    Rockford Fosgate T800-4ad (mids & highs)

    Subs:

    DC Audio Level 3 10's (2)

    Rear battery:

    XS Power D925

    Processor:

    Audison Bit Ten

    1/0 wire ran from front battery to rear. Amps are powered from the rear battery.

    SMD VM-1 tied into rear battery

    I am only capable of running 2200 rms (at 14.4v). I am having a massive issue with voltage. 13.1 at idle with HUGE dips all the way down to mid 11's on some serious bass notes. I just don't freaking understand!! I have premium equipment with more alternator and battery power that I should need for such a small stereo and still have voltage issues. I had higher voltage before the stereo!. Before install I had 13.8-14.0 (never had any higher. Even when new).

    PLEASE HELP!!

    My stereo is suffering because I can't get NORMAL voltage. That alternator is barely charging the batteries at all. I EVEN GET 13.0 with engine OFF!! I am at my end with this damn stereo.

    WHAT????????

  3. I have a 2011 toyota sienna xle mini van for taxi. I got the same problem like you, I just want the voltage up to 14.2 hot just to charge the battery fast. My mistake was upgrading the alternator. Went through ALOT of problem with the high out put alternator, then I just install the mechman adjustable voltage regulator (it a plug and play adapter connect to your stock alternator) and there a screw which you just turn to increase the voltage up. That is the cheapest and easy way to increase the voltage up with your stock alternator.

    So you added the module to your FACTORY alt or your HO Alt?

  4. Also How can u Say he is crying about a product if its not what he expected? You buy something expecting to do exactly what it was made for and in car audio what isn't abuse? Almost 90 percent of ppl who swap to h/o alts do more then what their equipment is rated at. Is that called abuse?. You should know that already. Seems that you think the OP is a lil inexperienced and has abused his equipment..I'm not bashing on any company in particular. I'm pretty sure they make an awesome and proven product, all I'm trying to include in this thread is my insight and what I expect as I'm in the market for an alt myself and I'm "vigorously" Searching for as much information I can get before I make my decision. As for the Op I apologize for Posting excessively in your thread as I am not a NOOB, but as I post more into response I am certainly taking a step back. I hope you get your problem Squared out and please keep us updated.

    i said dont cry when you break things when you run them like you shouldnt.. like charging at 14.9 when it can damage the battery then people cry to the manufacturer..

    No one has. That point doesn't apply to this thread. I have not abused any of my equipment.

  5. Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)

    Alt 240A Mechman

    Big 3

    Xs Power Battery D3400

    It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.

    My voltage after idle down is 13.7

    When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0

    This is with no stereo running.

    When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?

    In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.

    First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator

    I have spoke with someone from mechman on a few occasions about this particular alternator and they are always quick to jump into belt slippage. I get insulted every time I hear it. I have used 2 different premium belts. That is not the case. I was also told by someone at Mechman that using this AVBM would cause my battery light to stay on in the car which I do not want. Posted that earlier.. Everything on this install is in tip top shape. Battery, wires, connections are all good. This was a last ditch effort.

    Guess I'm just screwed then.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  6. I would get an externally regulated setup personally. Only way to 100% beat the PCM.

    Not willing to do that on such a new car. That and the fact my battery indicator would continuously stay on. Probably void any sort of warranty I have (electrical). That came straight from the folks at Mechman.

    Why would the rear defrost draw the voltage down to such levels? Even with all factory electrics are turned on..it still comes back to 13.7 just not when the rear defrost is on. This is regardless of RPM.

  7. Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)

    Alt 240A Mechman

    Big 3

    Xs Power Battery D3400

    It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.

    My voltage after idle down is 13.7

    When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0

    This is with no stereo running.

    When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?

    In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  8. Mechman,

    First off let me say I have spoken to Josh on a couple of occasions. Very respectful and helpful. I also received your product in record time so big thumbs up to that!

    Just recently installed your 240A alternator on my 2012 Toyota Camry. Since installation I have what seems to be a "chirping" sound when running. Have you ever heard of such a noise? Can you explain what it might be? I replaced the belt with a 1/2 inch smaller as recommended by Josh. A 1 inch smaller belt was too small. The noise is in the engine bay not through the speakers.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  9. I don't understand what you mean by specifics. One is built to have more reserve and as such isn't intended for primary purposes. It's also not suited for high temperatures.

    The others will, or should, have a lower internal resistance and give more power instantaneously and charge faster. A better way of looking at it would be looking at your charging and amperage and then budget.

    I still don't know how specific you're wanting an answer. Material make up, how much plastic, what lead, how many plates? Because if so, I don't think you'll get them short of cutting them up yourself.

    Yes sir. Those are good points. I would just like to know which specific batteries have such traits. I can assume..but I just want to be sure. Mainly I am looking for a secondary battery and just want to know which one is more suitable for my application (trunk).

  10. I have been looking at several XS batteries and I am seeing some numbers that confuse me. Can you educate me on this? All information was taken from SonicElectronix.com

    XP750

    AH=22

    CA=750

    $99.99

    D375

    AH=15

    CA=190

    $109.99

    D545

    AH=14

    CA=240

    $119.99

    If all of them are rated for systems of 600 watts, why do the two batteries with the smaller specs cost more? Are there specific differences? If so, what are they?

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