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I am not completely sure how the stereo system in my 2009 Honda Pilot Touring works. For instance when I throw a Fluke MM on a rear speaker lead and set the MM to Auto A/C, I get barely any voltage from the speaker lead, I mean like less then a volt. That's with a 80 HZ tone. It's strange. Which leads me to my first question - How did Honda wire this system up? With Dolby PLL turned on...I am not completely sure how the stereo system in my 2009 Honda Pilot Touring with Nav is factory wired and configured. For instance when I throw a Fluke MM on a rear speaker lead and set the MM to Auto AC volts, I get barely any voltage from the speaker lead, I mean like less than a volt. That's with a 80 HZ tone. It's strange. Which leads me to my first question - How did Honda wire and configure this system? **SUPPORTING INFORMATION** Speaker location: 2 Tweeters: Front corners of dash 1 Mid(not sure if it’s truly a mid): Center dash 2 Mids: Front doors 2 Mids: Rear doors 2 Mids(not sure if it’s truly a mid): Rear pillars 1 Sub: was Rear inside left quarter panel, now disconnect and using Kenwood sub in the rear storage area 10 TOTAL speakers Aftermarket amps, Sub, LOC's are all located in rear storage area Factory amp is located inside front passenger quarter panel Volume Level: Volume level dial range 0-40, I assume 80% of this level is still a clean unclipped signal. 32 on the volume setting is 80% and is what I used for the below calibration and setup. I know DD-1 may help but I am lazy and have not purchased yet and I have not taken the time to pick up my buddies O-Scope to confirm my 80% assumption. Aftermarket Hardware and configuration: Kenwood X500-1 : LP set to 80Hz, Bass Boost set to 1, Input Sensitivity - adjusted so output is 31.62'ish VAC with 60Hz tone (see calc below) which is about .8-.9 on the Sensitivity dial Kenwood KAC-8405: BRIDGED, both Right and Left channels are identical settings - Filter set to LPF, LPF/HPF dial set to 100Hz, Bass Boost switch OFF, Input Sensitivity - adjusted so output is 20.97'ish VAC using a 80Hz tone (see calc below) PAC SOEM-4 LOC (using output Rear channels for KAC-8405) sensitivity set to 1/2 full range, Input switch set to WIRED and Output switch set to RCA. Rear Input of LOC quipped with Signal Sense and this is how I power the P.Con (remote on) input of both amps. PAC SOEM-T LOC (using output for X500-1) sentitivety set to 1/2 full range, Input switch set to WIRED and Output switch set to RCA Alpine SPR-60C - replaced stock Front speakers (Foster) and has coil pre-wired to back of speaker Kenwood KFC-XW1000F - disconnected stock 8 inch sub (Foster) and using KFC-XW1000F in its place but relocated Voltage level gain setting calculations: KFC XW1000F - RMS = 250W @ 4 Ohm, 250 x 4 = 1000 square root of 1000 = 31.622 VAC Alpine SPR-60C - RMS 110W @ 4 Ohm, 110 x 4 = 440 square root of 440 = 20.9762 VAC Wiring and speaker configuration: Tweeters: Alpine SPR-60C (part of matched set), using stock amp and not using Alpine supplied crossover (not sure I should as I assume the stock amp signal is HP'd) Center: stock speaker, using stock amp Front Mids: Replaced with Alpine SPR-60C and driven by the Kenwood KAC-8405 (bridged 180W x 2) (I know it's too much power for the speakers but I did set the sensitivity noted above. Is this enough to make sure I don't smoke em'? Not sure. Rear Mids: stock speaker (Foster), using factory amp Real Pillar: stock speaker (Foster), using stock amp Sub: Kenwood KFC-XW1000F (sub and box set) driven by the Kenwood X500-1 (300W x1), Sub and amp are supposedly a matched set. Stock Sub not used Each Kenwood amp is using its own 8AWG for + and -, + direct from battery, fused 30 Amp. Each negative is about 12 inches long. Positives are around 18 feet Front and Rear speaker wires are redirected from near speaker location (under kick plate) via 16AWG to the rear storage area where the amps, LOC's and sub are located in rear storage and fed to corresponding LOC. Amp outputs are 16AWG back to the corresponding speaker. With Dolby PLII turned on (sounds better)... From what I can tell, the front tweeter outputs and the front door speakers are on the same Front channel. The Rear doors and the Rear pillars appear to be on the same Rear channel. The center speaker seems to be somehow tide into the Front channel and the Sub tide into the Rear channel. This is how I came to this conclusion - In the audio menu if I turn the channel selection to the Left, I get sound out of the entire left side of the car (Tweet, Mid in Front door Mid in Rear door, Rear Left Pillar) But no Center and no Sub and if I scroll down the to the Center and Sub setting both are all the way off (left) and I cannot adjust them. If I turn the to all right side I get right side sound but again no Center and no Sub. Turning the Channel selection to the middle gives me all speakers. And I have full adjustment settings for Center and Sub. If I turn the Fader selection to Rear I get Rear doors, Rear Pillars and Sub. No Tweets, Front doors and Center. If I turn the Fader selection to Front I get Tweets, Front doors and Center. Does this speaker behavior have something to do with the Dolby PLL? Not sure. MiSC Info: I've traced out the speaker wires. I am running the tweets with the factory amp (due to lack of available aftermarket amp channels and I believe the door mids are Band Pass so I would not get the full range of the Tweet if I parallel wired (as Alpine suggests) with the door mids. I think I have located the correct Metra plug(s) but not sure which to use (if at all). Metra links: http://goo.gl/NNkvI http://goo.gl/Uc19i Other questions: Can I use a JL Clean Sweep and if so how would I wire this up? Or should I just save up and buy the RF 3Sixty.3 and if so how would I wire this up? It would be nice to have complete control over all sound levels, right now the stock amp gains are what they are and I can't change them so I have to set Treble, Bass, Sub, Center settings in the stock audio menu to try and blend everybody together. Not easy and definitely not perfect. See attached pictures of stock radio and amp plugs and my physical amp/LOC/Sub setup. No laughing, I used what was available to me! Hopefully this is enough information and I do not get beat too bad for any Newb'ish f-ups!