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Found 18 results

  1. Never mind, fixed it.
  2. Trying my hand at designing my own enclosure, hoping for some feedback. Edges will be rounded over (haven't figured that part of sketchup out yet), WinISD puts port velocity a tenth under 30 m/s. Net volume is 5.11ft^3, tuned to 32.89hz. Outside dimensions are 16" H x 41.5" W x 20" D http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag321/reedal931/box_zps5018b3eb.jpg~original thanks
  3. Finally I have a steady job where i can save up to start my build This will be my first build, it will also be SLOW..... But here it is! So i have ordered one of my subs from Sound Solutions audio "FTMFW!" great customer service! I ordered a sundown X-18 d4 and i plan on getting a second one after i get my amp, a SoundQubed 3500.1! I am late starting this, so i have already received some of my things So my ride, 2002 Escalade 6.0 in the snow here is another one with my summer wheels on i know..... they are too small Here is the 3500.1 AMP GUTS!!!!!! Hell yeah! i plan to do a plexi laser engraved backing later down the road! I also ordered a SMD-VM-1 well thats all for tonight, i will post my sub when it arrives!
  4. Hey guys, I have a question. Now, I am here to learn, so don't flame me please. If I did something wrong, just let me know. But, from what I've seen on YouTube and how to "clamp test" your amp for RMS power, I did everything correct, or at least I think I did. I clamped the + speaker wire with clamp meter and measured AC Volts, put my DMM leads into the other set of speaker terminals to measure load. I came up with 48.5 volts and around 13.5ohms. This comes out to around 645. Now, I know this isn't dead balls accurate, but we aren't even in the same ballpark as 2200 watts. I wasn't expecting to get that much, but 645? The other formula i used was to this: AC Volts/AC Current = Impendance then take AC Volts squared/Impedance and I get around 670 watts plus or minus a few. Why are my numbers so low? Is this normal? Just doesn't seem correct... I know I'm getting the power to my subs, as they are banging. There is no way i'm only giving my subs 325 watts each... My recorded impedance was 3.55 and I have my amp wired at 1ohm... What's up? Can someone explain this to me? I really would like to learn more about this. I'm also about the strap another 2200.1D and I want to make sure my electrical is on the up and up. Any help/advise is always appreciated.
  5. The time has finally come for me to build some thing of my own. Its not as big as I originally planed but I think I will be more than happy with it. Plans are to run 2 HDC3s 12s forward firing through the trunk ran off the SQ 2200. I'll have 2 6.5 mids and one supertweet in the front doors ran active of the SQ 120.4. I have a 180 Singer alt on the way, two Kinetic HC1800 bats and Skyhigh 1/0 ofc for my electrical. I started the doors which was fairly easy because Hyundai made this car so cheaply my panels were made from Masonite with plastic trim screwed on to it. So all I had to do was trace the original on a new peace and cut it out. The factory panels were 1/8" and I used 1/4" to help hold the extra weight, and they also had some water damage on them due to the door seals not being properly attached. The circle drawn on there is where the window crank travels (yes my car has manual windows) so that left me with a bit of a challenge. Getting there. Wrapped and ready for res. I used the crushed velvet because its what I had and I've seen it used before. A few coats of res latter Both coated Thats where I left off. I got one sanded and ready for filler. As far as the finish of them Im still undecided what to do. I know wrapping them with viynal will be a pita to get smooth and paint will leave me with a to of sanding. Im happy with them so far since this is the first time I have ever did doors like this. I will post more pics of the gear and of the shit box tomorrow.
  6. I'm looking to buy an amp in the true 1200-1500 watt range at 1 ohm. It can vary from this range a little bit, just post anything you've got. For my budget it can go up to $300. I'm interested in cheaper stuff as well, though, such as the Soundqubed 1200 and other amps.
  7. Here's my box design so far for a SoundQubed HDC3 18" http://imgur.com/a/UyRxa Box Specs: 20.75H x 35W x 21.5D. Displacements used are .23 (Sub) and .05 (Dowel rod). 5.95 Cubic Feet @ 30.26 (Cubic feet might be slightly higher due to window). This also takes into account 3 baffles and port outside of the box. Port Specs: 19" total length 7.920" Inside diameter .240" thickness, PVC 12" outside flare diameter 49.24 square inches port area. Still deciding on an amplifier, should be anywhere from 1750-2250W. 1/0 OFC Big Three. 150 amp stock alt. XS Power battery to come later. I still might go slightly larger on the box, every 1" wider gives it .20 cubic feet to net. I know people use 45s in slot ports to smooth out air flow but should they be used in aero port boxes? If so should I just use a 45 for the corner next to the port or all 4 corners? Thanks guys!
  8. I'm planning on upgrading from my single Sa12- to 1 15" SSA Xcon. Want go musical (sub) and get loud (4th order box) while sounding clean and crisp! I might be going with and American Bass Elite 1800.1 or SoundQubed Q1 2200D I'm not looking for exact dimensions yet. just looking for what woks and what is going to sound Musical My suggestion 1:.75 Ratio look --> PORT 4 ft^3 tuned 45hz Sealed 3 ft^3 both boxes are made by manufacturer specs, disregard displacement it will be calculated later on. Is this build efficient? Am i going about this right?
  9. 2001 Saturn L200 Here is a brief rundown of whats in the car. Electrical: Singer 240A alt XS Power D3400 and D925 SHCA 0g Wire Big 3 with 0g 250sqft FatMat MegaMat Front Stage: Sony MEX-BT4100P (4) Crescendo PWX6.5 Crescendo S800.4 Sub Stage: Fi BL15 sealed off Crescendo BC2000 Here's a little video of the car: https://youtu.be/0EAOQWnStGQ Alright now for the pictures:
  10. So, I will have a new build coming up soon again. It's not going to be anything fancy, probably I am waiting on recones for these as well as a couple of new baskets(anyone that knows that story, yuck). I should be picking up the amp to power them later today. I know these things will pound, our they should at least. It's difficult to get a box to FIT the damn things since they want so much air compared to most 10s. This is as big as I'm comfortable going and I'll have the power to feed these, so that won't be an issue. Let's see if anyone notices anything peculiar about the specs, particularly the port size.
  11. I'm in the market for an amplifier to match 1 SoundQubed HDC3 18 and stumbled across this amp on droppinhzcaraudio. It did a Certified 2707w on 1-Ohm @ 14.02V, for only $330. WOW! It looks like it has some pretty solid internals for its price range. What do you guys know about FSD Audio, I've honestly never even heard of them until I saw this amp online. Is it Audio Legion under a different name??
  12. Hey! I'm trying to wire my SoundQubed Q1-1200.2 down to 0.5 Ohm. I have aftermarket watercooling going on it, so I'm not too worried about temps. The problem is that I only have one HDS-312 Dual Voice Coil @ 2 Ohm each (currently wired down to 1 Ohm final load). Does this mean if I double the amount of wire joining the two coils, I can approach 0.5 final Ohm load? Please don't just tell me not to do it. If any of us listened to that logic we wouldn't have the crazy setups that we do on here.
  13. So its come time for a new enclosure that's actually built by yours truly and the right size for my SoundQubed HDS312's. I have no issues with my 3 year old pre-fab tuned to 40hz, but it's time to let it go and give these woofers some space. So now I'd like some feedback from some of the gurus and magicians who know enclosure design better than most 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe Outer dimensions in inches: 16.75 height X 48 width X 20 long (7.593 gross) Port dimensions: 14.5 high X 7 wide, 30.25 long (center port= 13.25 down the center, then "T" out with 8.5 each side) Tuning= ~36hz after displacements net volume= 4.853 Orientation= subs up port back, double baffle not included in dimensions, wont affect net airspace. bracing not factored in. Power applied= 2600w @ 2ohms Let me know what you think. Its not like I dont have enough room behind the second row to tweak the size if I need to. Thank you.
  14. Here's a link to my Tahoe pics (Wall Design thanks to Robin Butler!) https://drive.google.com/?usp=web_ww_after_dl#folders/0B58ldAG-KZlVcHhjb2xrN2pRMFU The ISSUE that I'm having is the company that I had build my Wall did NOT "seal it off" properly at all. My Truck is getting a LOT of air movement to the REAR (which shouldn't happen at all...), and as Robin Butler has told me, I'm losing quite a bit of pressure in the front due to this issue. Also I realized they left my entire Roof Panel up on the Tahoe, which I thought was supposed to be removed and put MDF and Spray Foam or something up... I'm at a loss of SOUND QUALITY more or less. Yeah, 4 18's in a 4th is smashing pretty hard, BUT with panels still up that frankly should've been taken out I don't feel that I have a system that is both Clean and Loud. Still rattling when loud. Yes, the entire truck is 2-layers sound deadened with Damplifier Pro and Alpha Damp... ** I'd like to know how I can remove the Headliner off the Roof and fill it in with MDF or whatever and connect it to the wall, as well as Fill in gaps in the Front / Sides / Rear of the Wall so there is absolutely NO air leaks whatsoever. Id like the front of the interior (wall, panels, dash, etc) colored somehow too. Robin mentioned using Vinyl for that. Of course I also realize I need Fiberglassed door panels too. Whatever it takes to get a much more solid sound and clarity while still being loud as heck! - Any Advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
  15. Well, I decided to change my front stage sooner than I thought. Anything I have BNIB has been removed for purposes of pictures only!! Up for sale is: Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Speakers $50 shipped Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QT-CD25 (component) soft dome tweeters $30 shipped Two pairs (4 in total) SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Grilles $12 shipped for both pair, or $7/pair One pair of CDT Audio crossovers from the CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers set. I have both woofers and tweeters as well (one woofer is blown, one tweeter has a torn lead that can be repaired with some solder and heat shrink). Only listing the crossovers, but if you want the woofers and/or tweets as well, let me know. Price for crossovers: $45 I also have two 1.0farad capacitors that were given to me back when I started out. One is a Rockford Fosgate 1.0f Punch Cap. Price: $50. The other is a Lightning Audio (also of Rockford Corp.) Strike Monitor, which is 1.0f with a fancy digital readout price: $50. Everything is OBO, so throw me a bone, worst I can say is no! if you want a package deal I'll create a deal-price for you. Thanks!! Shipping only in the lower 48 states of the great United States of America. Payments can be made via PayPal only, and I will only ship once payment has been completed.
  16. I've just really started getting into building my trucks system and my amp just went out. It was a Hifonics HFI amp I got from a friend. It's garbage but it worked for a while. It was pushing my SoundQubed HDC3.12.D2 and I'm in between amps. The number one on my list is the Hifonics Brutus 2000.1 it seems to be a good amp considering I'm still in high school so my money is tight. But I'm also looking at the Audiopipe APMI 2000 which I don't know anything about Audiopipe but I've heard that amp is decent and also the SoundQubed 1200.2 any input will be very appreciated and if you have had any of these amps please let me know how it was.
  17. Hey guys, i've completed my first sub/port forward build in the 2013 Camry and I'm pretty satisfied with it for now. I'm hoping I can get educated a little here for a future build. I would like to learn more about the design and characteristics of a 4th order. My trunk is fully sealed from the cabin right now. I have (2) DSS Ethos 12's on strapped Q2200's. Electrical Mechman 240, and a bank of 3 Autozone Platinum H6 AGM's (210ah combined). 2 runs of 1/0 front to back. No runs of 1/0 negative front to back, but am considering doing it because of voltage drop issue. Want to reinforce all my grounds... Can someone send me some decent links on how to learn the basics behind a good 4th order design? I understand its a ratio thing, and that's about all I ever get back in answers. Tune to around 45hz and let her go. I would like to get deeper in to the understanding of 4th orders so I can design an enclosure to house the 2 12's and get a little extra output from them. I guess what I don't understand is, how do I design the port to fire into the cabin and go about tuning it correctly? I think for what I'm looking for and going from the very limited knowledge I have, i would be looking for a 1:2 ratio, that way to gain a little more output and keep my frequency range a little more flat for music. This is a daily driver and not a burp vehicle, so please keep that in mind. Thanks in advance for any advise I can get... I don't mind doing the reading and research, so if someone can point me in the right direction, that will be great. Then hopefully, I can ask more knowledgeable questions in the future...
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