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Found 9 results

  1. In regards to the image, here is my design for 2 warden 21" subs. Box is about 17.5 cubes total after displacement and some bracing. Port will be about 12" wide by 22.5" (internal dimensions) long about 33hz tuning (270" port area). So my question is, I can leave the spot underneath the port without a separator wall, or I can add a separator shown on the right. Aside from adding bracing to the box, would it lower port tuning a little? (in the thought of the air will hit the divider and move up, as if adding some port length?) If the subs allow I may make the port slightly longer, but tuning would max go to 31hz even if i add 6 inches internally to the port. So I dont think I will extend it if the box allows. The port will be pretty close to both woofers. I intuitively don't think it'll affect port tuning, but would it cause any issues adding the separator almost up to the port? Or if anyone has some input on changing where the port goes. The sides are very close to the vehicle walls so a port to the side may not be the best. And there isnt room to port forward.
  2. Hey! i was just wondering if, and if it's smart to use different port sizes for each chamber in the enclosure? I have 2 of the same subwoofer and I have built a couple of boxes now and I have always wodered if I used different tuning for each of the subs and seperate them in 2 chambers if I get more full range bass and still the same high output and soundquality? I was thinking something like 30Hz for one and 40Hz for the other? Right now I have a box witch uses 2 subs in one chamber with 1 port. Will I loose any db by seperating them into chambers? Thanks for any answer
  3. I have 4 Powerbass 1204D 12" subwoofers which have a frequency range of 31-500hz and I'm building a custom box Manufacturer recommends 10 cubic foot box (ported) tuned to 34hz subsonic at 37hz?? which confuses me? My question is if I tune my 10 cubic foot box (ported) tuned to 32hz subsonic at 25hz. (24hz would be half an octave lower than tuning or the unloading point as I understand) Will I be asking for trouble? or am I ok, I have done a lot of reading and still not sure on this topic I like the lows, at the same time I don't want to toast my subs. Any advice or input will be appreciated?
  4. Whats going on my friends? I have tried searching through the thread on my question and have found one link that is almost a year old and not sure if anyone besides me has happened to come across it. I posted on there but since the thread has been dead for so long, I am sure that it wont be seen for sometime. My question, I am looking for a good design that will give me nasty loud lows and give good spl. As the title says, those are the subs I am running. I know these subs can achieve decent levels as i had a set back in 96 @ 500Rms each on a gothic 1600 bridged and nailed 142.2. All in a full size custom van. I am working with a set of 12D2 @ 2ohm on a mrx m240 and you can take a look at my pictures and see how it looks... i have my old m1000 in the pics and have redone the wiring so a new pic will be posted soon showing what it looks like now. ( Before you say anything.... I will be getting rid of the Cap as it is useless for my current setup) I would like to keep the subs facing up, and have thought of inverting them as well if it wont totally kill SPL... but I would also like to vent on the drivers side... Either up or to the front... again.... which ever would be better to achieve decent numbers at the meter. I am going to be mounting two kinetic 2400's with it so my measurements will change from what i thought i was going to be able to use... as for now these are the dimensions i have to work with. i have 62.5" side to side. 18" tall and 20" front to back... i am looking for something that will get low and nasty... I am not sure the dimensions of the 2400 so if anyone knows.... please throw in a bone so i can get a better clue of what siz my box is going to be. i could get the smaller 600 or 800 and maybe mount them in the side panels under my xcab windows but still i dont have dimensions and with the power i will need on my m240 i think either of those would be a waste... or should i just mount 2 1200's under my hood and bump up to a 300 amp alternator and call it good? I have done some smaller builds and never had to worry about the things that i am doing now so bare with me on it... I am not completely noob when it comes to wiring.. as i never let anyone else ever install my equipment... just looking for assistance on a box design and maybe placement of secondary batteries and maybe the best way to fuse them to prevent damage to my subs and amps. Thanks everyone!!!
  5. I have a wedge style box for my two 10" RF p2d4 subs , each compartment is sealed off in the box and each one is 1.4 cubic feet (2.80 cubic feet total) The optimum frequentcy for it is 40hz and the manufacturer says it need a 4x14 port to achieve that and I was wondering if I could use 2smaller ports to achieve the same thing and have them style pound good and sound great. The box dimensions of you guys need them are 55 1/4 wide total (both compartments , but its sealed on the inside in the middle) 12 1/2" front height, 7" rear height and has a 19" depth. This box was made for my 04 silverado but for L5's or L7's so I modified the front to hold my round subs , I found it online and since the airspace was exact for my subs I bought it. If anyone at all could please help me I'd appreciate it.Thanks
  6. Im building a box for my 1993 cadillac deville trunk the max height is 16 inches, max depth is 27 inches and the max width is 34 inches. I think ill make the box port at around upper 20s
  7. No need to say. 4 12s in the back would be outright dumb... So ill do what you guys recommend. 2 12s in the trunk in a good box. That way I can focus on upgrading the door speakers ect. Anyways though. I still dont know how to build the port on the box. Ive uses box calculators and know my sizes but it really confuses me. And any help on how to do so or maybe a diagram you could throw at me would be great guys. By the way in need 3 cubes at 30 hz I think would be pretty good good. This is my first box build. Anyways any replies would be very greatly appreciated.
  8. When setting the gain on the amp do I turn the low pass filter/subsonic/ high pass filter/ etc all the way down before I start to set it? Or do I have the lpf/hpf/subsonic etc already set to where i want it and THEN set the gain? I'm confused because some tutorials say both. I know i have to have everything to 0 on the HU but I'm talking about the amp in case I was not clear.
  9. So I am trying to get all of this figured out before I go out and get a new amp, another sub and more batteries. Steve and the guys solved my voltage meter problem, now I have a seperate problem of my sub peaking WAY over the boxes tuning frequency. The vehicle is a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS, system specs are in my sig. The box is tuned at 31.5Hz, 4.2 cubes, yet the bass peaks at 40-45Hz. At anything lower than say 39Hz, the output drops significantly, almost cancelling out completely between 35-37 and picking up a little under 34ish. Is this due to the vehicles high resonant frequency? That is just my guess as to what the problem is, as the Malibu used to hit MUCH lower with the one 12 in it. I would like lower bass and do not want to build a new box until I can figure out how to achieve this. The subs FS is around 23Hz, would I have to tune lower, like 27Hz to see optimal output at 30-32Hz? Or am I missing something completely here?
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