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Found 14 results

  1. Andrew Storlie

    Painting mdf

    So im working on building some high end speakers for my pc and idk if i want to use mdf or hard wood. Im asking to see if anyone has tips or tricks for painting/finishing mdf including the edges...
  2. Sam is a guy who keeps his shit clean, and his toys are no exception. A couple years ago he got the opportunity to buy a sweet 1990 Chevy short wide sport truck that looked showroom new with 60K on the odometer. Since he got it he's done a lot of things to it, including letting me build him a console sub, do some door pods and add to his existing audio system. First thing we did was the box, then the pods, a big three, then added a second 4 channel, some mids & tweets in the dash (all active) and finally, full door panels that I've been working on, on and off for a long time. The system is mild and more suited for sound quality and rock but he can still manage to burp a little over 40 so it's loud enough... for him, lol. Audio equipment consists of a Massive Audio bass amp, one Massive 4 channel, a CT Sounds 4 channel, CT Sounds Meso 12, two pair of JBL MS-62 components and a pair of 3" Dayton Audio midrange drivers. The truck: When Sam first came to me he had a "console box" that another shop had built. I'll show that to you first and then follow up with random build pics from everything else.... Keep in mind, this first box DID NOT come out of my shop. It came out of another shop, wrapped in leather, but not mine, lol. Dat port doe! But what about all those gaps in the curve? SILICONE!!!! So yeah, maybe the sub hung over into the vent and maybe it hung over the right side of the box but hey, it was wrapped in REEEEL leather! That wedge in front of the cup holders was supposed to be a tablet mount. WTAF?? Next up, actual build pics of what I did.
  3. I plan on using a polycarbonate window in my next build so I need the inside of my box to look pretty. I think I want the inside to be white with black carpet on the outside. I've never painted the inside of a sub box or done much other than build a box. What type of paint and primer should I be looking for/use? What grit(s) sandpaper do I use and when do I use it? Should I use a paint roller or brush? Spray can? I imagine that I should sand -> lay a coat of primer -> sand -> coat of paint -> additional coats of paint until it looks good. I'm aiming for a satin-ish finish. Thanks for any help or tips guys!
  4. Hi. I am getting ready to paint my box and have looked through a few threads on the idea. It seems that for a half decent finish I would need to use like 4-5 layers of primer to soak in/coat the mdf, then like 4 layers of paint. My question is what king of primer or paint should I use. I think spray paint would work well but I don't know what kind or anything. I would greatly prefer to not bottyfiller/bondo or fiberglass because I really don't need a show quality finish and I am trying to get this in my car, playing by this Monday. The panels will be painted individually since the box is being built in my trunk. If anyone has any experience or advice I'm interested to hear. Thanks
  5. I was thinking about pulling the badges of my 2001 Silverado but i know the paint has faded some since it's an older truck. I was thinking about repainting the whole truck and was wondering what was some dependable paint guns that ya'll know of. And any tricks and tips would be greatly appreciated. And it would probably be done outside so what Tempurature would be ideal? Thanks in advance
  6. Hey paint experts, So my cars paint is in pretty rough condition. im going to paint the whole thing myself, 1.) i want the experiance and 2.) its a few grand to do it professionally. The main problem is finding paint that will look good with my vinyl roof, that and not knowing what to do. i never painted a car before. i know i can go to napa and get paint mixed for me, but thats going to be 1400 bucks. and i got 500 just for paint. The rest i got covered. So whats a good paint? im trying to go with grey. As close as factory as possible. But black is the second option. only problem with black is you can see every singe mark/scratch. i was told rustolium does a good job, so i bought one can just to try it out and it sucked bad. it bubbled on the factory paint and it engraved my hand after it dried. it was 100% dry when i rested my hand on it... and it has this everywhere on the body. everywhere. super deep. almost all the way down to the primer horrible repair jobs deep pitting at the front you can see what colour my roof is here, but i can take better pictures tomorrow if needed.
  7. Vehicle Warp is an easy way to transform the look if your current car, protect the paint and also dress up the appearance. Here at the Al & Ed's in Marina Del Rey we speciaize in the Avery Dennison Supreme Wraping Film. with over 80 different shades, textures and colors we can style a car to meet a customers taste. Our Latest project is was a Tesla Model S. Now we have already featured one done in Intense Blue but this one we got a little crazy on. We wanted to do some thing a little different so we Decided to go Matte Black on the chrome trim. Black is the New Chrome! We added Carbine Matte Satin Red on the Logos and and Red LED bulbs for the side markers. We used Matte Black on the side marker to accent the logo and on the front bumper trim. On the Front Bumper we did The Matte Gunmetal Grey on the body on the nose cone and the added the Carbon on the rear valance and the upper insert on the nose cone. Carbon wrap also went on the mirror caps as well. To dress up the wheels we chose some TSW 21 inch rims and Amaroo in a mate black finish and a nice Michelin Pilot Sport Tire . So there will be a surprise in the middle of this thread so stay tuned. If You have a car and need a wrap emal [email protected] to set up a consultation.
  8. I recently finished building a box for my BL 18 and I really wanna make it all look super nice. Anyone got any real cool / interesting ideas? I'd love to hear them all! Heres some pics of the box https://www.dropbox.com/s/lhivlapxw58dnry/Photo%20Jun%2030%2C%206%2007%2024%20PM.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/9z95vwe5pr5ayf3/Photo%20Jun%2030%2C%206%2007%2038%20PM.jpg
  9. I have a 2000 Corolla with veryy bad paint chipping on my hood and i wanna plasti dip it but idk how long i plan on keeping it there, has anyone ever done this? how durable is it?
  10. I removed those plastic things above the window hate the look anyway glue got left behind looks crap too tried real hard to get it off but wont get off easy any chemicals to get it off without damaging my paint should I use meths or alcohol what should I use
  11. hey guys quick question for you. on my box i had to paint the port before i assembled the box in order the get the led's in and what not. anyways now im paint the whole box and i don't know how to correct go about the next part. when started sanding and laying down primer i taped off the port a little ways down so that crap in there and so primer wouldn't fall all the way down the port. and well after the primer, i took off the covering and taped it again a little further down the port so i could sand smooth the primer. unsanded sanded anyways, im getting ready to start painting some color on the port and im wondering if i should leave the new taping so the over spray doesn't fall down to the bottom. or if i should take it off cause there's gonna be a really noticeable line where the tape is right now. any input would be greatly appreciated. edit: dang spelling
  12. So a while back I was undecided on what I wanted as far as the finish on my box. I did a blow through and didn't think carpet or vinyl was the appropriate material for the enclosure since it was not near anything with carpet or vinyl. I also did not want to bedliner my box because I was going for a more "Show Quality" finish. I decided the finish was going to be painted, but not a lousy rattle can job, it had to look professional. Tools and Equipment Air Compressor HVLP Paint Gun Regulator and Water trap for air system Various varieties of sandpaper explained below Blue Painters tape Paper Plastic Hose Body Filler Fiberglass Resin (No mat required) Router w/ Round-over bit High Build Primer Base Coat Clear Coat I first started with the box itself. I built it with the vision of the final product in mind. Every cut had to be pretty much perfect and every screw was going to have to be invisible. I also wanted it to look sleek and show quality. I countersunk every hole so the screw heads would not stick up. I also belt sanded every edge of the box to ensure a nice flush edge all around. Then I put it in the truck for testing because I wanted to make sure I would be happy with the output of the box, before putting time and money into. Sure enough I was not happy with the output so I continued tweaking the port and ratio of the box until I was satisfied. Once I got the box to that stage, I began sculpting it to become what I envisioned. I first started by rounding over all the edges with the router and my round-over bit. I did not getting any pictures of the process, but here is what the edge looks like once finished. So in the picture above there were some steps I have not covered yet, but pay attention to the look of all the edges on the box including the port. That is what the round-over bit does. It creates a nice equal round over along the edge and gets rid of the sharp square looking edges. The next step in the process is to fill every hole on the exterior of the box with body filler. On my box, I needed one removable face so I could access the woofers. I did my best to ensure none of the screws would be seen when looking into the bed of the truck. It took only a couple minutes to figure out how I could do this and fill the rest of the holes without worrying. So the box was completely assembled accept for the one board that I wanted removable. I began filling all the holes with body filler. As you can see every hole that needed to be hidden was filled in with body filler, then sanded flush with the box. I looks sort of goody at this stage, but you want try and envision the smooth final product. The next step was fiber glassing the entire exterior of the box. Again I left the removable board off the box so it would not get stuck to the enclosure. I fiber glassed that piece separately. You may also notice I did not use any fiberglass mat on the exterior. The reason only resin is applied is so the paint has something to stick to and the wood does not absorb the paint. After that I started sanding the box with a long-board sander and 80 grit to get it knocked down and straight. I applied body filler where it was needed. All of this "prep" work is needed to get the show quality finish. I have probably over 25 hours into the enclosure. After you get the box straight and leveled out, you want to go over it with a 220 grit sandpaper. On a block or DA sander will work. Just be cautious not to dig in and create more high and lows spots. Once the box is fully sanded with 220 grit, give it a good wipe down or use an air compressor to blow it off. Again you want to make sure the box is still straight and look for any pin holes. If you do have pin holes or small touch up spots, I recommend using a glazing putty. It is not as thick as body filler and sands easier. You think you finally have the box straight and perfect right? wrong, go over it again feeling for uneven spots or more pinholes. The process takes awhile to get perfect, but just keep envisioning the final product. Okay now it is as close to perfect as you can get it. Time to wipe it down thoroughly and shoot some high build primer. I used U-pol 2k urethane high build primer. Follow the instructions of the primer and shoot a minimum of 2 heavy coats. I think I went with 4 coats total on the box. Now it is starting to take shape and you are very close to getting your nice finished product. It is now time for more sanding. The point of the high build primer is to try and fill the small, almost invisible, waves from the body work. The primer is nice and thick. So break out the DA sander or sanding block along with the hose and some 320 grit sandpaper. 320 will take to primer down pretty quickly so don't apply much pressure. The point of using 320 is help get a lot of the texture out of the high build primer. Once the box has been sanded lightly with the 320 grit move onto 400 grit and only use a block sand pad. Go over the entire box wet sanding and get ALL the texture out. The box will really start to shine now. If you want, not required, but you may go over the box with 600 grit also. I did on my box and I could start to see me reflection in the primer. In those pictures the box has been dried, but it is so smooth from wet sanding it looks wet and glossy. Once the box is completely wet sanded and all the small blemishes are out, it is time to start the real painting process. This box was not shot in a professional booth by any means. We laid plastic down on the garage floor, wet it and also put a fan to draw all the overspray out of the garage. We started with a Honda Black Metallic Pearl for the base coat. With a color like black, you really want to work hard on your prep work because black shows everything. That was the easy part and the rest is not really that challenging. Here is a trick we used to really make the box pop out and also match the truck. I went to a printing shop and asked for a reverse cut sticker. If you tell the printing shop what you are trying to do, they will point you in the right direction for this. So we got the sticker in place and masked off the rest of the box so no over spray would come in contact with the black. Also, the black base coat was completely cured when we applied the sticker. It only took about an hour for the black base coat to cure.
  13. i have a 2004 Escalade, shes saphire blue and came with 2 parallel goldish colored pinstripes ...9 years has taken its toll on those lame little stripes and im not sure how to tackle it exactly....before i come up with my own idea i figured theres bound to be someone here thats done this before or at least has some kind of direction to point me in right? thanks
  14. Basically, I really would like some ideas on the best painting method to get a finish with heavy texture like all pro audio subwoofer enclosures. I need a finish that can take a beating from being moved around & such. Thanks!