Stephen_og Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Not bad at all, nice Thanks bro. Yeah I wasnt expecting much just because of what I was running but hey I was happy with it. First time my car has ever been on a TL lol didnt have an test tones to burp it at all that why it was all on music. Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 So im starting to gather all my equipment for the rebuild. Going to be coming in one at a time so im not sitting here broke and cant pay bills and what not. List of what I have/plan on getting: Shok Industries 1/0 gauge-CHECK -also got two fuse holders with two 200A fuses and some ring terminals tht came with it. Singer 230A alternator-next to buy 2 DC 12" XLs (probably D2, so I can wire down to .5 when I get 4,5,6k way later down the road.)-towards the end of Nov. I will be getting them. XS power D3100 and D3400. The second cadence amp and a 4 channel amp( havent really decided what to get yet) I will probably get in between the time of buy all the bigger stuff since I can get it for cheaper on audio savings or for sale thread. So Here on some pics of the wire and stuff: Got this from a new local dealer for Shok, Ryan (NoPh33rRaCiNg). Its super flexible just from pulling a foot off of the roll. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Pretty shitty phone pic, but when I pull the so called "1/0" gauge thats in the car right now ( it fits in a 4 gauge imput hahah) i will show a camparison. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Two fuse holders. Will re-use the one I already have that has a 250A fuse for goign to the alt when I do the big 3. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Two 200A fuses. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Then I have like 7 1/0 gauge ring terminals Ryan gave me that Russ from Shok threw in with his latest shipment. I will get more soon but thats what I have for now. Also I got some red LEDs for my dome lights. Look for that in the post below. Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 So monday I ordered some RED LEDs that I used to replace my dome lights in the car. They go with the my gauges since they are also red. Got them of iJDMtoy.com There 360 Degree 5-SMD T10 wedge light LED bulbs. Website says that they will replace 158,168,194,921,2825 size bulbs. So I dont have a after pic because my crackberry doesnt take good pictures and you can barely see the red inside the car. When my parents get back from my dads grandmas house (shes in the hospital and they went to visit her) I will take a pic with a better camera. My luck and they took theres with them. But on to the pics: I got two sets, one for the front dome and one for the rear dome. Uploaded with ImageShack.us LED by itself Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now I looked at what size this bulb was on the net and the said 2825 but to me it looks like a 194. None the less it still fit like a glove. Uploaded with ImageShack.us This is what the LED, and stock light went into. Theres no wires in the back, theres contact points on both sides and contact points on the housing where the bulb goes into. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Then this is what they went into. If you look in the middle ofthe picture and about 1/4 of the way on both sides of the pic thats where the lights sit. Uploaded with ImageShack.us It was a pretty easy install. just pop them off, put the LEDs in and your golden. Recorded a video, you can kinda see the effects of the RED LEDs. Its in the box cause I just keep it in there so I dont lose it haha Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkraid Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hey dude. Whats the box design looking like at the moment? By the way instead of having to buy adapters for your amp to go from 4 to 0 gauge you could just run a short length of good 4 gauge from your rear battery to the amp. As short as possible. Just an idea. Throw up some more pics of your box design though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 I'm probably just going to be doing just that lol I'll get some up later today after I get off work, I'm leave right now haha but I'll get it up here... It's by ram designs Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hey dude. Whats the box design looking like at the moment? By the way instead of having to buy adapters for your amp to go from 4 to 0 gauge you could just run a short length of good 4 gauge from your rear battery to the amp. As short as possible. Just an idea. Throw up some more pics of your box design though So here it is... 42x16x20 tuned to 33hz. its only a single baffle but I plan on putting another baffle on it. Yeah it will lower tuning, but I was wondering if shrinking the port wall thats parallel to the back wall will get it back up to 33hz? just a thought but I dont mind a lil bit lower tuning, its mainly a daily system. Pics: Uploaded with ImageShack.us the guts wil the top and baffle removed. He put in 2x2s in for bracing. And port 45 Uploaded with ImageShack.us then a top view of the box Uploaded with ImageShack.us This box was designed for a pair of 12" DC lv4s w/ lv5 coils. After bracing and displacements the net vol was 4.6. But now im planning on getting some XLs. Still will use the same box (DC rep in my area said the design would be just fine) until I get more power to the woofers then I will shrink the box and make the port bigger but thats later down the road. Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 So today I got bored at work and tried my skills at soldering ring terminals. One of the service techs let me use his torch and sauder. So here is the wire stripped of the rubber... damn it was tough getting those ring terminals around the wire Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now Im not pro but for my first time soldering on terminals of this size I dont think its half bad. yeah I should have put more sauder in it but i didnt know how much was too much or too little. so now it might look like theres too little but the shitty cracberry pics doesnt do it any justice.. there was enough put on, the terminal is on tight. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I only did one because I did it later in the day and it was getting time to clock out for work. Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkraid Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hey dude. Whats the box design looking like at the moment? By the way instead of having to buy adapters for your amp to go from 4 to 0 gauge you could just run a short length of good 4 gauge from your rear battery to the amp. As short as possible. Just an idea. Throw up some more pics of your box design though So here it is... 42x16x20 tuned to 33hz. its only a single baffle but I plan on putting another baffle on it. Yeah it will lower tuning, but I was wondering if shrinking the port wall thats parallel to the back wall will get it back up to 33hz? just a thought but I dont mind a lil bit lower tuning, its mainly a daily system. Pics: Uploaded with ImageShack.us the guts wil the top and baffle removed. He put in 2x2s in for bracing. And port 45 Uploaded with ImageShack.us then a top view of the box Uploaded with ImageShack.us This box was designed for a pair of 12" DC lv4s w/ lv5 coils. After bracing and displacements the net vol was 4.6. But now im planning on getting some XLs. Still will use the same box (DC rep in my area said the design would be just fine) until I get more power to the woofers then I will shrink the box and make the port bigger but thats later down the road. That is sweeet. If you put an extra baffle on just slap it straight on the first baffle which will then make you box a little deeper but won't mess with the volume. Will give you like a 0.75" longer port (depending on thickness of wood) which will make the tuning a tiny bit lower. You must understand that the port has a specific area measurement which works best with that box because of volume and tuning. I would just use that design exactly and then maybe put another baffle on the external if you want not messing with the internal volume. Yeah the change in subwoofers will be fine using the same box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_og Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hey dude. Whats the box design looking like at the moment? By the way instead of having to buy adapters for your amp to go from 4 to 0 gauge you could just run a short length of good 4 gauge from your rear battery to the amp. As short as possible. Just an idea. Throw up some more pics of your box design though So here it is... 42x16x20 tuned to 33hz. its only a single baffle but I plan on putting another baffle on it. Yeah it will lower tuning, but I was wondering if shrinking the port wall thats parallel to the back wall will get it back up to 33hz? just a thought but I dont mind a lil bit lower tuning, its mainly a daily system. Pics: Uploaded with ImageShack.us the guts wil the top and baffle removed. He put in 2x2s in for bracing. And port 45 Uploaded with ImageShack.us then a top view of the box Uploaded with ImageShack.us This box was designed for a pair of 12" DC lv4s w/ lv5 coils. After bracing and displacements the net vol was 4.6. But now im planning on getting some XLs. Still will use the same box (DC rep in my area said the design would be just fine) until I get more power to the woofers then I will shrink the box and make the port bigger but thats later down the road. That is sweeet. If you put an extra baffle on just slap it straight on the first baffle which will then make you box a little deeper but won't mess with the volume. Will give you like a 0.75" longer port (depending on thickness of wood) which will make the tuning a tiny bit lower. You must understand that the port has a specific area measurement which works best with that box because of volume and tuning. I would just use that design exactly and then maybe put another baffle on the external if you want not messing with the internal volume. Yeah the change in subwoofers will be fine using the same box. Yeah I will be using 3/4 MDF so I dont know how much lower in tuning that will make it. Probably next year around feb I want to upgrade the amp to just 1 probly 4 or 5k and I will make a smaller box for the XLs with a bigger port. I wont just shrink the depth to cut the volume because I want to keep the width and height the same for sealing off from the trunk. Team NWSPLUPCOMING BUILD (when I afford it) 2013 Ford Focus Hatch 2x DC lv3 15s 2x b2 quotas XS batts DC power alt That amp would fuck the shit out of those subs. It would roofie them, knock them out with chloroform, then make sweet, gentle, anal love to them all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkraid Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Yeah I will be using 3/4 MDF so I dont know how much lower in tuning that will make it. Probably next year around feb I want to upgrade the amp to just 1 probly 4 or 5k and I will make a smaller box for the XLs with a bigger port. I wont just shrink the depth to cut the volume because I want to keep the width and height the same for sealing off from the trunk. Yeah sweet adding another 0.75" will barely do anything to the tuning if its 33hz flat then itll probably like 32.9hz. Why make the box smaller and the port bigger? I don't understand? Isn't that sorta the opposite to what you want to do? If you have a smaller enclosure your not gonna want a bigger port because the air ratio won't be correct and it will end with a peaky box (SPL box) with poor woofer control. Explain please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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