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darkraid

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Everything posted by darkraid

  1. They go hard! Running each crossover at 85w @ 4ohm. Haven't checked what the actual loads are. Will do that when I install the cards back onto my car next time if I remember. The pair of Tang Band 3" drivers I ordered have been shipped so should be here soon. Next weeks job is A-pillars. I am going to make a mould of the A-pillars probably like 30-40cm long, so that the pods that contain the 3" drivers and the tweeters can be removed easily instead of being a permanent fixture to the A-pillars. Stay tuned! Hopefully painting the door cards this weekend!
  2. Thank you! Passengers side door card is almost ready to start going up in sand paper. A few little spots to fill and sand flat then I can go to 150, 250, 400 and then maybe 600 grit sand paper.
  3. Here is how my car stands as of now... Here is what I bought today to start the finishing process of the door cards and more resin to do the A pillars... I bought a pair of Tang Band 3" drivers which will be going in the A pillars along with 2 tweeters each side.
  4. Ported box is done and in the car. Definitely louder than the sealed box!
  5. Yeah I think I will. I have a box sorted now. 2.56cu.ft NET 34 sqin port area x 35". Tuning frequency of 30.14hz. 0.75" MDF with a double stack front baffle. Gross Volume is 4.07cu.ft. Port volume is 1.23cu.ft. According to Torres. I'll throw it up on Google Sketchup now and draw my cutting plan up too.
  6. Really confused ay. Torres vs RE box calc vs my own calculations all give me different figures for the box volume and tuning with a lock port area, length and box size (length,width,height). Don't know what to believe!
  7. Just did that in WinISD and this is what it looked like. Blue is the 4th order, green is the ported I mentioned above.
  8. Yeah of course the port bends but I just thought that 35" was fairly long. Hmmm 4th order, What program can I use to see the frequency response and that? I know theres WinISD but that's not made for car situations. I've got Bass Box Pro but no idea how to use it.
  9. I'm using Torres Box Calculator off this forum. I was going to try for 2.5cu.ft @ ~30hz. But the port length is just huge. I seem to have got a combination on Torres Box calculator that gives me 2.49cu.ft @ 30.72hz (34.80sq" port area x 35" port length). Is 35" a long port?
  10. To get 30hz tuning I need a very long port.
  11. Here's a quick video I took of my system. I wish the camera microphone wouldn't distort! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sy3BrFcW4Io
  12. I only used staples. On the inside part of the enclosure I didn't really worry about what it looked like but on the external cloth at the top I folded the fabric underneath it's self and stapled the underneath piece so that the staples were hidden. I will take some tomorrow when it is day light Video coming soon too Thanks for the support and interest guys!
  13. Everything is in the car now. The door cards still need finishing up. Tidying with a grinder, another coat of resin and then sanding to get it smooth. Then I will body filler it if it is not smooth enough. Then paint it dark grey to match the interior. The door cards are really rough at the moment but I just couldn't resist not getting them on the car and see what they sound like! Really impressed with them and how they sound! Well worth the money! My bass is lacking a bit now so I will be building a new box in the near future which will be ported instead of sealed to get some more output. I will throw up some pictures tomorrow and possibly a video of the system at the moment.
  14. What size port should I use. How many sq inch per cu.ft of port? I know Digital Designs recommends 16 sq inch to 1 cu.ft of volume. I'm not sure how that would react to the Dayton sub though. I'll probably go for 2.5cu.ft. I could even make the port external or partly external so that I can get the port firing off the boot? Or would that create some sort of imaging because the subwoofer is further away from the boot than the port? I would really like to get some more output out of the subwoofer because it is lacking now that I have 2 DD-CS6.5 component sets in the front doors. Building a new box is also cheaper than getting more power at the moment too. EDIT: Just had a lil go on Torres Box calc. How is this? Not sure on port size though or if it can be 22" external. Just a rough measurement.
  15. Hell yeah. Lil old NZ down the bottom of the world. Of course I'd build my own box. I've built 3 in the past including this sealed one I'm using now. Not sure high tuning would be too good for this sub. Wouldn't it be really peaky doing that. Plus the FS is 25hz which is low! Mainly dubstep, drum and bass or music with rolling bass. I was thinking about getting fancy though. Ya know going further than ported. Not sure if any of those more complex box designs would be any good for what I'm doing though?
  16. Hey everyone. Today I just got my replacement for my broken Dayton Sub. In replacement I received the Dayton Titanic MKIII 12". This one HERE. I currently have it in my box that I built for the old Dayton sub. It is 2.0cu.ft sealed. Even though this is a home audio subwoofer I am using it in my car at the moment until I save for bigger and better. I am only running the subwoofer off a Fusion PP-AM10001. Which does around 400w @ 4ohm. I would really like to make a box that sounds great but can also get loud because of the low power I am running. I'm not sure which type of box I should use. I was looking at PWK Designs boxes and they have some pretty awesome looking boxes. My subsonic filter is at around 20-25hz and the low pass at 80-100hz. If you could give me a type of box that would give me both sound quality but also get louder than the sealed box I already have that would be awesome! Any further specifications like size and tuning and box tips to get it louder would be great too! Thanks!
  17. Today I fibreglassed the passengers side door card. Also bought a Fusion PP-AM10001 off Trademe (NZ's equivalent of Ebay). Should also be picking up my new Dayton sub in the next few days.
  18. Thanks. What do you mean kitchens in cars now a days? lol Ohhhhhhhhh brain fart there. I get what you mean Nice! It was a weird incident really. I had reversed out from a driveway across from hers and I had just straightend up on the road when I saw her coming towards me at somewhat high speed (10-15km/h) and before I could get out of her way she hit my door with her rear bumper. I was fuming when it happend. My mate that was in the front passengers seat was a little shocked with what had just happened. It's all good though because her insurance is paying for my car to be repaired as it was her fault.
  19. Unfortunatly a lady reversed into my car almost 2 weeks ago and it is getting it's new door this week. Hope to have it back by thursday. The damage:
  20. Hey everyone. Kinda new here. I'm only 17 with a part time job so bare with me I don't have thousands to spend unfortunately. I am from New Zealand and here we don't have easy access to all the awesome products that you guys in the U.S.A have. I am limited in areas like Alternators, Batteries (brands like XS, Kinetic aren't in NZ), and the car audio scene isn't very big here. Big ups to Ashley @ Abtec LTD NZ! He is the importer for Digital Designs in NZ and runs DB DRAG NZ. Thanks! I plan to use as much Digital Designs gear as I can. The plan for my car build is constantly changing but here is what I am think right now... Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P5150UB Front doors: 2 sets of DD-CS6.5 component sets. Rear doors: May add the DD-CXS5.2 coaxials from the front doors. Rear boot (on top of the coilover housing): DD-CXS6.5 coaxials. Sub woofer(s): Thinking either 2x DD-1512 or a single DD-3512. Really digging the single sub setups at the moment. Front amp: Fusion PP-AM8004. Upgrade to DD later? Rear amp: None at the moment. Not sure what I'll use. Subwoofer amp: Will get a DD M1b/c. I am building up my car audio system. At the moment I am working on the front doors. This is my first time fibre glassing anything. Stay tuned for updates!
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