brennan88 Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 yeah your alt is maybe 80amps i been seeing, and thats and full output, at idle maybe like 35 or 40 ish. even under 1000 rms will put a good strain on your electrical, a beefy battery and big 3 should take care of that no problem. my friend is running 1500 rms in a honda station wagon and his alt is only an 85 amp one, he has a kinetik 1400 and no problems powering his sytem. Quote '04 Walled Monte Carlo daily driver2 DD 9518i SC D.7 DD M4a 2 sets RF T165-2s (soon to be 3) RF T400.4 Mechman 320 XS D3100, D3400 https://www.youtube.com/user/OffensiveProduction1
Dylank811 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Posted July 16, 2011 Alright guys, thanks for the advice! Quote 2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System Cadence FXA1600.2 Cadence S2W10 Cadence 4 AWG wiring Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz
Dylank811 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) Alright, so after all this advice, I took a look at my current wiring under the hood. I should've taken pictures, but now it's dark out and they would be useless. I'll do my best to describe the wiring. My ground wire appears to be roughly 4 AWG wire. The copper threads look quite a bit thicker than the threads in my amp power wire. It comes off the battery and is ran down to a spot on the right wheel well, and then a new piece continues from this bracket to my engine block. My positive takes off into the wiring harness and I didn't trace all the stuff out, but it ends up coming back to my alternator as (roughly) 2 8 AWG wires stuck together. The power wire is also heavily frayed near the battery and just shitty looking is the best way to describe it. The terminals also are crap. My thoughts are to replace the end of the power wire with a replacement from an auto parts store and make the splice a cleaner connection with the proper materials. I want to get 2 new battery terminals (with a volt meter, yay for goodies) that have the proper and cleaner holes to correctly place the components. I might also disconnect my ground wire from the wheel well and sand the area again since it is so nasty. I will either clean or replace the bracket holding the ground wire in place on the wheel well. I believe with this I should be able to avoid the big three right now. I don't see why I would need 1/0 AWG wire when I'm only running 4 AWG right now anyway. If I'm wrong, please feel free to tell me I'm stupid and offer advice. Edited July 21, 2011 by Dylank811 Quote 2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System Cadence FXA1600.2 Cadence S2W10 Cadence 4 AWG wiring Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.