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First Real Build need overlook and comments.


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So my name is Andrew i'm a longtime lurker first or second time poster i lost track.

so its came time where a have money to paint my car (rattle can) and a audio system, The car is a 1993 ford mustang hatchback lx.

so ive got a budget for the audio system of about 1300 bucks, And i need everything but mids-highs.

I have a set of 6.5 Memphis pr and 5.7 of the same front and rear.

so ive never bought serious stuff off line but i'm thinking about trying to buy this whole system from amazon, Ive been to several local shops getting estimate for the parts, I will install myself, so far i'm at 1300-1600 for parts at a local shop and thats lo class kicker, (nothing wrong with kicker).amps. and i built the same build only thing different is amps,box,tweeters, for 300 less on amazon.

link to cart here >>http://www.amazon.com/gp/cart/view.html/ref=gno_cart << idk if yal can see that if not i will post individual.

So my questions are coming now, lol

1. Does anyone have any positive/negative comments on that build?

2. If i buy a 1ohm amp and run it at 1ohm do i need 1ohm sub and mids highs?

3. I also need a good multi amp install kit, does anyone have a suggestion?

4. (bass knob) since i listen to a variety of music some sounds good with bass some doesn't, so i want to run one, Is that a good idea?

Im sure others will come as i go but thats it for now, Thank you all in advance this is a wonderful knowledge sight and just all great people.

I look forward to your help.

ok, So part by part update below.

1.My link

12 inch, 2 ohm sub. (gonna rum at q ohm)

2.My link(sub box)

3.My link

(tweeters)

4.My link

(sub amp) gonna run 1 ohm

5.My link

cause it doesnt say it comes with one in box.

6.My link

mids & highs

7.My link

head unit.

8.My link

Idk if i can install it myself but i might try.

THATS ALL FROM AMAZON, EVERYTHING BUT WIRE.

From knu this is my wiring kit trying to make sure i got everything

1.My link (negative terminal)

2.My link (postive same thing)

3.My link (idk what fuses to get)

4.My link

5.My link (idk what fuse again)

6.My link (10 feet should be good)

7.My link (25 feet again)

8.My link ( for the 4 channel so i dont have to get splitters)

9.My link(for sub)

10. My link 50 feet should do.

And thats it please comment on any suggestion to changes.

Edited by jrdrew5
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buy online youll save a ton of money instead of buying at shops.. even lower end stuff.. to run one sub at 1ohm get a dual 2.

2 Fi BTL N2 18s Fully LoadedSundown Audio NS-1Kenwood 845 HU Clarion EQ4 Juicebox 3100sKnu Wire"Big 3"Mechman 270a156.3dBTeam GG.

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For the amp kit buy knu wire and peice together your own kit. Way cheaper that way.

Rebuild Log with the SMD

CURRENT..

Honda Accord Coupe

Porsche Cayenne S

Lexus CT200

Lexus ES300 (sold)

99 Lexus RX 300 (sold)

ADDING

Honda - Hertz setup, more to come

Porsche - Fi BL, XS Power, more to come

coming soon..
peep the old rebuild log of the Lexus RX

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you could look here to figure out how to wire the relay, however the diagram is wrong and you need to listen to the people who suggest the 87 pin for output.

to answer the bass knob question most mono blocks come with one so no worries there.

another thing is big 3!

lastly you must know getting into car audio is a path to the dark side, its addicting, have fun.

chevrolet all day er day.

'81 camaro z28 performance

'03 silverado ext cab show and go

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you need a relay so you don't burn up the remote lead on you HU. its basically a switch with the remote lead being the trigger and power from the battery supplying the juice to the remotes on the amp. when you turn on your HU it'll trigger the "switch" in the relay causing the power from the 12v connection to go through to the amps remote.

get a 5 pin remote and wire it:

pin 30 to a 12v connection (battery)fuse it around 5 amps or lower.

pin 85 to the decks remote lead

pin 86 to ground

pin 87 output to amp remotes

pin 87a is not used

accessoryrelaywiring.png

relay pins are marked so that makes it easier. better to be safe than sorry, don't want to burn anything up on your head unit.

and as the the ohm load on your amp. how many subs do you wanna run? if you wanna run 2 at 1 ohm get some dual 4 ohm subs and run coils and subs in parallel, if you wanna run one at 1 ohm get a dual 2 ohm and run the voice coils in parallel

dont mean to confuse just wanting to help.

chevrolet all day er day.

'81 camaro z28 performance

'03 silverado ext cab show and go

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you need a relay so you don't burn up the remote lead on you HU. its basically a switch with the remote lead being the trigger and power from the battery supplying the juice to the remotes on the amp. when you turn on your HU it'll trigger the "switch" in the relay causing the power from the 12v connection to go through to the amps remote.

get a 5 pin remote and wire it:

pin 30 to a 12v connection (battery)fuse it around 5 amps or lower.

pin 85 to the decks remote lead

pin 86 to ground

pin 87 output to amp remotes

pin 87a is not used

accessoryrelaywiring.png

relay pins are marked so that makes it easier. better to be safe than sorry, don't want to burn anything up on your head unit.

and as the the ohm load on your amp. how many subs do you wanna run? if you wanna run 2 at 1 ohm get some dual 4 ohm subs and run coils and subs in parallel, if you wanna run one at 1 ohm get a dual 2 ohm and run the voice coils in parallel

dont mean to confuse just wanting to help.

Oh no belive me ur helping. Thats exactly what this thread was for im all about do it once, the right way never do again. so instead of running remote off the headunit splitting it into 2 remotes towards the back of the car, i run a relay bassicaly by the amps and it allows me to control both off 1 remote?

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