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first suggestion, aim the subs back, you will get a gain, i saw they were aimedd forward in the video, the only way to make that more effective is if the sub box is 100% sealed into the cabin of the car, where no sound can get into the trunk

Edited by purplesyrup
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when i was 14 ( a very long time ago) a friend of mine that hade drivers license hade a volvo 244 like mine with a Phoenix Gold total build and i couldent sit in the back seat of the car when he turned up the volume it was impossible to take a breath i was so hard bas in it. and that is what im after you could say =)

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Okey, then i will try to seal it of from the trunk, the video sucks you cant really hear the sound in it. but if i turn the box around will it come in any bass to the cabin then?

Yea, turn it around and experiment with different distances from the trunk lid, for the time being

Usually around 6 inches from the back of the trunk will help the subs load and create more pressure (in the cars i've had )

I would suggest on your new build you bump it up to 12"s, 15"s, or an 18"

more cone area, more pressure, you will need more power also,

The only time when this does not apply is on some of the very high end woofers that can handle loads of power.

Refering back to your old post, You mentioned your subs are not hitting loud like you want, with out doing any math or knowing any deminsions, the box in your video appears to be tuned very very low, and you were playing metal, so just guessing for example, if your box is tuned to 32 HZ, its very likely it will not slam off that double kick drum like you want it to.

I''d suggest tuning in @ 40 hz for metal, but if you listen to all sorts of music, 36hz works well also, from my experiance

Edited by purplesyrup
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