New to car audio.. have some questions

[Conner]

I didn't know where to post this at, since my questions are about my whole system and not just one part.. amps, subs, wiring.. etc.

I've been a musician for over half my life. Recently found out I have a little boy on the way and about to get married. So the band life on the weekends is no more for a while. Since car audio doesn't involve being away from my family when I'm not at work, I'm looking for a good start in the right direction.

1. I just got a pair of Alpine Type R SWR-12D2's. My uncle has a pair of an older 4 ohm 500 watt RMS model (with the big R in the middle of the woofer) and they sound great in his S10. I've read a lot of good stuff about them, but reviews can be worthless on the net if you can't pick the pros from the amateurs. I figured if I want a good opinion, I'd come here and get one. Are these good subs for the price? I'm stuck with these subs for a while. So whether they're good or bad doesn't matter, but I just really want some opinions on whether I made the right choice or not.

2. I'm running a Hifonics Brutus BRZ2100.1D at 2 ohms with these subs, which is pushing around 700 watts to each. Would it be smarter to get another BRZ2100 to run each sub on its own amp to get 1 ohm out of each at the full 2,100 watts, or stay where I'm at? The subs are 1,000 watts RMS and 3,000 watts peak a piece, and the amps are 2,100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm and 4,000 watts peak.

3. I'm looking at mids and highs at the moment (still running the stock speakers in a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo). I kind of have my eye on the Alpine Type R 6.5's with components, but what are some better options? And what would be a good amp to run the front, rear and tweets? I may even add 2 tweeters in the back near the hatch.

4. My 0 gauge wiring is rated at 2,000 watts. Is this good enough for my setup even if I decide not to run another BRZ2100?

5. As far as an upgraded power source, there's a 200 amp alternator for my Jeep made by Mean Green. Should I get it along with 2 or 3 new batteries? I've been thinking about getting 2 or 3 Kinetik KHC1800 or the KHC2000. One under the hood to replace my current battery, and one or two in the back by the amp. Will I need all this? Maybe not, but at least I'll have the power to expand my system if I wanted. Or just keep my voltage up to run at .5 ohms if the amps can handle it.

Like I said, I'm new to all this. Guitar gear is pretty different from car audio. Kind of like the NFL and college football. Same thing, just a totally different league. Any help would be appreciated. Waiting for my DD-1 and CC-1 to show up either today or tomorrow. Not looking to compete. I just like enough power to judo chop me in the forehead while driving down the road. Looking for sound quality as well as power.

And don't worry. This isn't my family vehicle. The only rattle the baby will have is in his crib.

[LZTYBRN]

1. I'd say they're pretty good for the money.

2. No point really in getting a second 2100. If you do want to upgrade some day, I'd get something higher quality.

3. Lots of options out there. You can try to go take a listen to some to find out what you like. Same goes for the amp, too many options to name. Just try to pick a good 4 channel. And don't just throw tweeters in randomly with no woofers to go with them.

4. You might be able to get away with it, but I'd add another run of 0 gauge so you don't have so much voltage drop.

5. Not sure. Hopefully someone can answer that.

What kind of box are you running or what do you plan on running?

[Conner]

Thanks for the reply.

The box I have now is just to get me by until I can figure out what will suit these subs the best. Not really sure what to look for, other than the specs it gives for the subs.

Here's the box I got for now http://www.ebay.com/itm/310410739459?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And the specs on the woofers say "ported box volume: 1.25-1.50 cu. ft." tuned to 33hz I think. Can't remember where I saw the specs for the recommended tuning of the box.