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Also I don't know if it had regular maintenance because its not my car, but from the looks of the area the water pump is I'm guessing not

Car: 1995 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport 4.0L (2wd)

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P5000dvd

Front Doors: blown stock

Rear Doors: blown stock

High amp: none (for now)

Subs: 12" Kicker L7 D4

Sub amp: JL Audio 500/1v2

Wiring: Stinger Pro

Speaker wire: Stinger 12g

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It ran fine before I took it apart, other than the water pump leaking, and the pump still spun and the belt had nothing wrong with it. I just changed the pump and timing pulleys, put it back together and when I was putting the crankshaft pulley back on it stop stopped rotating at a certain point, which is where I'm stuck at now

if you just rotated the crankshaft without having the timing cogs rotate simultaneously (while in timing), you likely bent the fuck out of the valves.

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The pulley comes off and the timing gear is behind it, anytime it moved the timing belt was still on. I just got the belt all the way off yesterday. When I put it back together when I thought I was done the timing belt had never come off it was always on whenever I moved the crank shaft

Car: 1995 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport 4.0L (2wd)

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P5000dvd

Front Doors: blown stock

Rear Doors: blown stock

High amp: none (for now)

Subs: 12" Kicker L7 D4

Sub amp: JL Audio 500/1v2

Wiring: Stinger Pro

Speaker wire: Stinger 12g

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Share on other sites

Ok so you have not spun it with the starter? If not good we can make this work. As you approach the point where the crank stops turning reach up and rotate the camshafts in the direction the belt would turn them. Small amounts on bolth cams then crank. You should be able to work it around like that. Once you get to tdc verify by putting a metal coat hangar into no.1 cyl. To make sure its at the top of the hole. Line up all timing marks. Toss the belt back on and pray. I have done this once now i mark where each mark was when i take the belt off and dont let anyone near it while the belt is off. Belt is off for as short a time as possable. And i dont stop for any reason while it is.

I just wish i had a funny sig.

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You absolutely have to change the timing belt when you change the water pump. Otherwise you WILL be back in a month with bent valves.end of story. Try it and see. Hope you have a grand to blow. Cause you didnt want to by a seventy dollar belt.

I just wish i had a funny sig.

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Bro i hope your not getting payed to do this job cause you are in wayyy over your head. When you took the belt off the cams DID turn. Maby just a little? Dosent matter. Now you have the results. You will have to take the belt off (for gods sake get a new one!) Brb

I just wish i had a funny sig.

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Ok im back if you want ill walk you through this. First i need to know if you tried to turn it over with the starter after you put the belt back on. Answer that question and we will go from there.

I just wish i had a funny sig.

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I have the new belt for it and I was planning on putting it on, no I did not try to start it. I found out it locked when I got it all together and was making sure that everything was working properly first

Car: 1995 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport 4.0L (2wd)

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P5000dvd

Front Doors: blown stock

Rear Doors: blown stock

High amp: none (for now)

Subs: 12" Kicker L7 D4

Sub amp: JL Audio 500/1v2

Wiring: Stinger Pro

Speaker wire: Stinger 12g

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, i have changed 4 timing belts in my life on 4 different cars. One was interference and Dohc the others where non interference.

Most likely the engine has a mark near the starter under a cover, or has a spot where you can check TDC. You can't just spin cylinder one up top because you can still be 180° out on the timing. If you pulled the cam shaft gears off you will have to get them back to where they go first. You can't go by the paint that is on them, they have mark in them and they should only go on one way. Most the time both the marks just line up with the horizontal surface of the head itself.

Is this a single or dual overhead cam?

Single overhead cam is pretty straight forward, but with dual overhead cam engines you need a tool to put under the back side of the cam shafts because one will have tension on it.

I would look up a guide or get a shop manual from chilton and find out the exact method for changing a timing belt on that car.

I would also get some help, one person can do a timing belt but it is way easier with two people so one can hold the belt up top and keep the cam from moving while you slip the belt onto the crank.

But, if you have accidentally bent some valve, just pray you only bent intake valves. They can be bent back by a good head man, but exhaust valves usually have to be replaced. You are probably looking at 400 bucks in head work alone if that is what has happened

edit:

Also, you said you havent tried to start it but earlier you said this.

Okay so I've been working on a 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5l v6 for a couple days, it started as the water pump and as I went along I came into a few more problems that got resolved and I finally got the at put back together and tried to fire it. It started to crank and then it just stopped, I've tried everything I can think of to get it to move again an I can't. I'm all out of ideas so if anyone has any please let me know cuz I need this car out of the garage by Sunday night

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