Maxim Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Are you still getting the bluescreen when booting Windows or are we past that?Still getting itI flashed to f11 successfully but it's still doing the same thing And the windows help thing is useless hahahaha I'll try find my windows disk and throw it in and see what happens Go into the BIOS. Go to the SATA controller settings. Change the SATA mode from IDE to AHCI. Save changes and reboot. wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTG13 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Make a video of the BIOS pages if you can, maybe we can check those and see if anything stands out. Try the IDE to AHCI as stated above. (But that will only work if the OS was installed in AHCI.) At this point, if you have access to another computer, I would say to make a boot disc (linux or something of the sort) and use that and an external HDD or flash drive to grab all the data you need off the computer, because as far as this has gone, it might just be best to try and Windows reinstall. Sorry for the delay, work has been crazy the last few days. If you have any questions I'll be on here most of the night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 All my data is on my hdd and windows is on the ssd with a couple of smaller files that aren't so important I'll have a video up in about an hour of bios PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTG13 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Okay that's good. Well I can tell you now that the short route is to reinstall windows. That will be the quick way to get the computer back up and running (if it's not a larger issue.) But we can try and figure this out if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted September 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 http://youtu.be/jm_bkT76znY PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 In the BIOS: Integrated Perepherals -> OnChip SATA Type -> Change from [Native IDE] to [AHCI]. Save changes and reboot. wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted September 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 I tried it when ptg suggested it. But still nothing changes. Windows still try's to boots then blue screens straight away PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTG13 Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Okay, flip it back to IDE as that's most likely what you installed the OS under. Is the Sandisk boot item the SSD? I assume that's where you have Windows installed. I wonder why that is IDE Channel 2 Slave. If it's your boot drive it should be Channel 0 Master. Maybe try checking the SATA cables and make sure the SSD is in Port 0 (or 1 if you don't have a 0) The other thing I saw was maybe look into the OnChip SATA3.0 Support. I would assume thats SATA 6.0 Gbps, maybe try turning that off. And under the OnChip SATA type, what options are there? Does anything you choose allow you to edit the two below it, the 4/5 type and RAID5 support? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Ummm I just checked the sata cables and they are running the wrong way. So I swapped them and I'm gonna swap that IDE thing back and try it again PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTG13 Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Tell me how it goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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