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reversing polarity (type c) door lock wiring help


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I'm installing a alarm in a 1997 crown vic police interceptor. Its a el cheapo skytek, (I really just wanted to add keyless entry and remote trunk locks, I'll add a better one later.) I believe my car uses type c door lock system. I hooked up the the two relays in what i believe is in this manner, 86's and 87 to 12+, 85's to alarm -triggers and 30's to the motor side. when i touched the power wires to the relay to a live 12+ it shorted out. Due to me tapping in the wires at the door switch instead of the kick panel and extending those wires out with the same color wire i can't 100% verify which wires are the switch side and which wires are the motor side. Could me making a error on which wires are switch side and which are motor side be the reason of the short when i connect the power lines of the relay to 12+. Before anyone says something, my multimeter is screwed up, I don't feel like buying another atm. I got my wiring codes from online wire guides and verified them with a service manual for my car so i know i cut/use the right wires (pink w/light green stripe=lock off of master switch, pink w/yellow stripe= unlock off of master switch).

Didnt want to create another thread for this question so I ask it here.

I want to add a intellegent key system to my car later down the road (advancedkeys unit) Does anyone know of any good two way alarms that can be armed and unarmed by negative triggers? I dont want have to use the keyfob or a smartphone app to arm/disarm the system since that would pretty much defeat the purpose of the intellegent key system minus the push to start function. I came up with the idea off adding the dei 1 way alarm that is designed to allow you to use your factory key fobs then adding the compustar drone mobile so it would notify on my phone if the alarm is triggered but that seems a lil redundant. with intellegent key systems trickling down to "lower end" cars, someone has to make a two way alarm compatiable with intellegent key systems

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You definitely have reverse polarity and they are located in the drivers boot/kick panel only thing is you have them backward pink/yellow is lock and pink/green is unlock here is a wiring relay reference from the12volt.com if wired exactly like this you will have no problem! Check your pink/green to confirm its the right one some ford have 2 of these wires in the kick panel area! Also it is a police model so most likely is not keyless entry model if for some reason it is it's simply a positive trigger!

c8be25c25b28a874bd9d4e66ce5a65be_zps1a19

"Custom isn't bought its created"

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I unplugged all of the harnesses in the driver kick panel and could not find them there. I just got to them inside the driver door at the switches and ran through the door and to the dash area. Me using the same color wire for all of them probally caused the confusion. thanks for your help the thing thats stopping me from properly testing them is that the switch in the driver door doesn't function (passenger door lock switch does)

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It doesn't function cause you cut the circuit that will not stop you from testing use a test light ground it hold the lock switch til one lights then same with unlock connect those wires to 87a and then plug the remaining two each into number 30 hit lock and unlock if they are backwards switch number 30s around and you'll be good to go! Btw the wires come through the door boot into kick panel then go up usually can't find them til high up in the kick panel but if the locks are not working with driver switch you definitely have the correct wires

"Custom isn't bought its created"

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  • 3 months later...

i left it alone and tried again today. this is still kicking my ass and i'm about ready to say fuck it and let a shop wire it up. I wired it up exactly like the diagram you posted but as soon as i touch the 12v+ (I have 4 in to 1 wire connection) to the main 12v+ wire i have for the alarm setup it glows red. Details on my install, if you know crown vics, the door panels easily split in half from closing the door. the bottom 3/4 of my driver door panel is missing it was way easier for me to just cut the lock and unlock wires right after the connector all the switches on the door panel connect to, connect a wire on the 1/2 of the pink/green unlock wire leading to the door lock switch, run the other side into the dash area and let that be my "switch side unlock wire", connect the other half of the pink/green that leads back through the door and into the factory wiring harness to another wire, run it through the door and let it be the" unlock motor side" wire and so forth with the lock wires. Do I really have to tap into these wires in the kick panel area of the car, meaning that there is something between the driver door panel switches and the wires in the kick panel area (the actual master door lock switch, maybe) that wont allow my wiring method to work.

When i said the driver door lock switch doesnt work and thats why i cant test wires, I mean the actual switch in the door panel is broken (when you press it nothing happens and you dont feel/hear contacts engaging as you press the button ) but the switches on the passenger side work fine. this is due to my driver door panel being broken. Before any body says anything, yes i know i need to get a new door panel, i havent found anywhere that sells them new and ever time i contact a salvage yard they dont have any for my car.

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